Upgrades

Thanks. Mine has the long piece attached to the floor still. I'll have to go look at the one I borrowed parts from. Then it's to eBay :)
 
My blinkers have stopped working. I tried to use the search bar but got nothing. They come on and get brighter when you turn it on but don't flash. Could it be the fuse?
 
My blinkers have stopped working. I tried to use the search bar but got nothing. They come on and get brighter when you turn it on but don't flash. Could it be the fuse?

Flashing unit gave up the ghost or a bad ground. Flasher is the round canister on the fuse block.
 
Flashing unit gave up the ghost or a bad ground. Flasher is the round canister on the fuse block.
The ghost came back. The turn signals are working now but the gauge lights and park lights aren't working. Guess it's a ground or a gremlin.
 
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Can someone post how to do the opera lights. I've looked but no luck

Do what with them? To remove them there is either a screw at the top of the window frame when you open the door to pull bsck the vinyl panel theyre on or you remove the padded triangular panel from inside and then there's some screws and nuts behind it.
To replace them there's no bulbs it's electroluminescent so you're on your own to either buy that stuff or be creative with led tape.
 
Had the windows tinted today. No more fish bowl.

98a20384-be37-4fb5-8f36-ea440d6ce050.jpg
 
These should fix correct? How about back spacing? And if chang the center cap of course lol

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These should fix correct? How about back spacing? And if chang the center cap of course lol

View attachment 53578
It's been awhile, but I think the SN95 Mustangs had a stock backspacing of 5.7" and the stock backspacing on Mopar police wheels is 4.25"

I don't know if you can cram almost an extra inch and a half of wheel in these cars.
wheel-backspace-explained.jpg

Plus I think the Chrysler center bore is bigger than the SN95 Ford center bore, something like 73mm vs 70 or 71, so the SN95 Ford wheels might not even fit on the car because the bores are smaller.
 
Had to do some digging to find it. I knew a guy from Dippy and Moparts a long time ago that ran these wheels on a Fifth Avenue.

Original Moparts Thread

my 5th, the fronts are 11.75" rotors, stock calipers, the rear is a 12" wilwood drum-in-hat pbrake disc brake kit

I'm running .75" thick bolt-on billet adapters, they were ~$190. the wheels were $480 shipped, new Ford Motorsports stock, the tires are 255/50R17 BFG KDWS's

5931041-carsmall.JPG
 
Ok so basically If I want them to work I'll need spacers. Which brings me back to the 30 year old parts being under stress.
 
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Hey im still here lol. Has anyone had trouble with water leaking into the panel that the seat belt retracts into.
 
Do you just have water accumulating at bottom panel where B pillar is? Near floor but captured by a metal lip?
 
Some but the seat belt is soaked when you pull it out.
Okay you're talking about a higher leak than I had on one. Very bottom of B Pillar near floor is a what I would call a metal lip. Mine used to be wet in there after hard rain but everything else was dry. I'll get a pic of where I'm talking about. I believe my leak was part of dried out seam sealant
 
I’m going to say that one thing I would do to a lean burn vehicle weather I was going to change the engine at some point or not is remove the lean burn system and install an aftermarket ignition system or mopar electronic ignition system and depending upon the carburetor involved and your talents with it either modifying or replacing with a new one. This will remove the largest flaw with the vehicle and allow you diagnose other problems as needed.
I’ve done this a few times over the years and have found that nothing else needs to be done to fix the problems with the car, good power and fuel mileage, the best luck I’ve had with modifying the carb was with the QJ on a 440.
So good luck with your adventures.
 
I’m going to say that one thing I would do to a lean burn vehicle weather I was going to change the engine at some point or not is remove the lean burn system and install an aftermarket ignition system or mopar electronic ignition system and depending upon the carburetor involved and your talents with it either modifying or replacing with a new one. This will remove the largest flaw with the vehicle and allow you diagnose other problems as needed.
I’ve done this a few times over the years and have found that nothing else needs to be done to fix the problems with the car, good power and fuel mileage, the best luck I’ve had with modifying the carb was with the QJ on a 440.
So good luck with your adventures.
Thank. I've already removed the lean burn.
 
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