Jack Meoff
Mopar Maniac
have seen expose where they cut them all open and baldwin looks better than most.. fram looks like drunken kids put them together on friday at 4:30...
Fram rhymes with scam.
have seen expose where they cut them all open and baldwin looks better than most.. fram looks like drunken kids put them together on friday at 4:30...
My last case of Baldwin was at $4.60 per filter, tax included.
Cheap price to pay for protection.
Again, I thought the thread was about a stock 87 F/A 318 and not 110 years of oil and engines.
Royal Purple would be a waste of money and not good on a stock 87 F/A 318.
No diesel on a F/A either.
So a pristine '87 318 isn't worth preserving with quality oil? I use it in my ratty '92 Dakota with a 3.9L.
The only reason diesels entered into the conversation is because that was where I was working when I did all this research. Perhaps you missed the part where I said, "Fleetguard makes the best oil filter for a Mopar V8"?
I posted two articles, one from Hot Rod Magazine, one from Wikipedia. Did you not read any of it? It has to do with synthetics of today (and also true of conventional oils, by the way) not having sufficient amounts of ZDDP, and synthetics being so slippery that they will not rotate the flat tappet lifters to help distribute wear. You have a vast experience with engines. So does Hot Rod magazine, so do the above named Mopar engine experts, and to an even greater extent, the original designers of the engines, who designed the engines to use the oil (SE/SF) that was around when they designed the engines, NOT synthetics, nor low ZDDP conventional oils of today (Type SN).
In roller lifter engines, feel free to use whatever you want, whatever brand you want. In flat tappet lifter engines, be aware that they were designed the use higher ZDDP content oil, and expected that the oil would not be as slippery as today's synthetics.
You can use whatever you want, your car, your money. However, I must pose the following question: Is it possible that some of the older engines that are being rebuilt, are being rebuilt due to the use of modern synthetic oils when they should have been using high ZDDP (relative to todays SN grade oils) content oil? Could it have beem the use of low ZDDP oil/modern super slippery synthetic oli that created the need for a rebuild, rather than the "Its a 30 year old engine, things wear out, time for a rebuild" type of conclusion?
P.S. Mobile 1 is not always a synthetic. There are Mobile 1 oils that are 100% synthetic, there are Mobile 1 oils that are blends.
Mobil 1 is synthetic. You're mistaking Mobil 1 with Mobil Super and Mobil 5000. If it's labeled Mobil 1 it's synthetic.
VR1 has the necessary ZDDP content. So does Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Amsoil. Amsoil was one of the first synth's and has been around for decades. My old man ran it in his flat heads. Yeah, you read that right: in his flat heads and you really can't get much older than that.
I've never rebuilt an engine because of a wiped cam and lack of zinc. I have, though, rebuilt plenty of engines due to oil sludging, usually caused by high paraffin bases, improper maintenance, a lack of warm up times as well as those that have been run hard and put away wet. Stuck chokes that cause bearing wash with all that gas wiping the oil off the cylinders and getting into the oil pan where it's pumped through the engine (talk about wiping a cam... have the pump push diluted gas all over the lobes) Getting back into engines from the 50's and the 60's I've rebuilt a lot of engines because of people running HD's and then switching to ND's and back and forth. A 392 Hemi that had absolutely no oil going to the valve train because of it.
Speaking of switch back and forth, one of the worst things you can do to your engine is switch out your oil. Each of the oil refiners has it's own base formula to start with. Many of them put a "glaze" on the machine surfaces that doesn't necessarily play well with other oils. Switching every time your local retailer has a package deal doesn't help and can actually lead to the sludging I'm talking about.
Wiped lobes usually happen within the first thousand or so miles and has more to do with inexperienced builders not knowing how to break in the cam and a lack of break in lube or they don't know how to get it to fire immediately and grind on it until it does. Wiped lobe.
I gotta admit, I didn't read the article from Hot Rod or the Wiki link. Didn't need to. Got experience on my side as to what works and what doesn't. Been doing it for a great many years and learned from a man who cut his teeth hot rodding engines since he was fourteen (he's 74 now, if that means anything).
The thing is this: how many of our cars are used as dailies vs used as summer rides. Synths work in doing a lot of things: they are better at combating friction, they work in coating machine surfaces better which serves its purpose in long storage, especially in non-climate controlled storage.
Even then, if you do use your car as a daily and only for short hops synths work better against sludging. They also work better against carbon build ups (better friction wicking).
By the way, most of you do realize that "synth" are just oils that are more refined than "conventionals" right? To break it down think of three stages of refinement: "conventional" is the most rudimentary refinement, with a few additives, "synth blends" have been refined more with a few more additives, with "synthetics" being refined even further with even more additives. Many people are under the mistaken belief that "synthetics" don't come from the same barrel of oil as "conventionals." It all starts from the same barrel of crude.
Just for clarification on this example:Had to replace the 84 MC 305 cam and lifters for dishing *lots of lobes* and it had clean oil in it from day one, mostly Castrol 20-50 or 40... tested the rest of the lobes for hardness thinking the cam may not have been flame hardened - not so. Only had 130k miles and the new one dial indicates still good w/220k now. Have been adding the zinc since the cam change. . . my 98 MC gets a little too, for good measure even though it has roller rockers/lifters. Lawnmower, edger, etc.. all good!