res1vw21
Well-Known Member
so it still bolts up like a factory F body one then... K I think I will keep my standard mopar shock plates.
Firm Feel Products
- Thread starter bremereric
- Start date
bremereric
FMJ Body Moderator
Sorry I was late to the show
Ross you keep and clean and paint the upper plate where the shock mounts...
And here is the finished product with the shock in place...
Ross you keep and clean and paint the upper plate where the shock mounts...
And here is the finished product with the shock in place...
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res1vw21
Well-Known Member
yha but it seems like one more thing to buy (the the little plate thing) when I can just grab the regular style one off the shelf.
bremereric
FMJ Body Moderator
here is why I posted the cheaper alternative....
http://www.forfmjbodiesonly.com/classicmopar/showthread.php?t=80
res1vw21
Well-Known Member
still more expensive then grabbing parts off the shelf lol
I eliminated the isomount at the rear, used early B lower plate and rear shocks, cut down the upper plate to just have the sway bar mount so I could have the ubolts next to the spring pack, and filled in the big hole with a large shoulder nut welded in place. Had to drill out the nut a little to match the spring pack center bolt head.
There are pics over at Farley's diplomat site in the Library section.
As for springs, the front segment lenght of FMJ is the same as dakota springs, but the dakota spring pack is 2" shorter in the back segment length.
I used the dakota springs from a 2700 # rear axle rated dakota on my wagon, cars would probably be better off with about a 2300# rated rear axle. That involved moving the rear mount forward 2", and had some plates made to allow that. Rear axle rating info is on the door frames of both dakotas and FMJ.
A better way, if your main leaf is still good, is to cut the ends off a lighter set of dakota springs and put the 3 leaf pack under the FMJ main leaf. That will give you 4 leafs. If you started with 5 leafs, cut an old spring to make a spacer to fill the iso-mount box if you are going to keep it....
There are pics over at Farley's diplomat site in the Library section.
As for springs, the front segment lenght of FMJ is the same as dakota springs, but the dakota spring pack is 2" shorter in the back segment length.
I used the dakota springs from a 2700 # rear axle rated dakota on my wagon, cars would probably be better off with about a 2300# rated rear axle. That involved moving the rear mount forward 2", and had some plates made to allow that. Rear axle rating info is on the door frames of both dakotas and FMJ.
A better way, if your main leaf is still good, is to cut the ends off a lighter set of dakota springs and put the 3 leaf pack under the FMJ main leaf. That will give you 4 leafs. If you started with 5 leafs, cut an old spring to make a spacer to fill the iso-mount box if you are going to keep it....
aspen77rt
Well-Known Member
I'm just being dense here. How exacting does this work? I'm not grasping it.Yep, it's my picture of my car...I also have the aluminum biscuits from FFI
I have the extended front hanger with SS springs mounted now. Along with the stock iso clamps.
bremereric
FMJ Body Moderator
You get a new bottom plate...new u-bolts...a new stud with a locating spacer for the top plate....rubber is gone and the spacer locates the spring in the upper plate....
heres another supplier with the same option....
http://www.forfmjbodiesonly.com/classicmopar/showthread.php?t=80
heres another supplier with the same option....
http://www.forfmjbodiesonly.com/classicmopar/showthread.php?t=80
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aspen77rt
Well-Known Member
I follow now. Thanks.
dodger roger
Well-Known Member
did that raise the rear of your car when you removed the iso plates ?
MiradaMegacab
Well-Known Member
Yes, about a 1/2"
Welcome aboard!!
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dodger roger
Well-Known Member
1/2" sweet thank you very much very happy 2b here
MiradaMegacab
Well-Known Member
Well, now that I'm thinking about it, it's more than that. Maybe 1" , it's the thickness of the iso pad and the thickness of the shock plate.
Volare4life
Well-Known Member
- Joined
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Anyone remember how much drop their drop spindles have ?
80mirada
Well-Known Member
I believe it is 2"
Bruceynz
Well-Known Member
Hi Guys,
I am going to build my own iso deletes, to me it looks as easy as making some steel plates the size of the rubbers parts, tack with welder, drill a hole for locator and bolt back up, rubber parts gone, or am I over looking something?
Thanks
Bruce
I am going to build my own iso deletes, to me it looks as easy as making some steel plates the size of the rubbers parts, tack with welder, drill a hole for locator and bolt back up, rubber parts gone, or am I over looking something?
Thanks
Bruce
Leizurtime
Well-Known Member
For our cars they offer the aluminum pucks to replace the 4 rubber ones that are sandwich in between the k member and the frame...they also offer a package called the rear isolation delete kit...which removes the rubber that is sandwiched in between the leaf spring...I got both of those kits for my car because I was tired of the swaying boat ride on the freeway...can't wait to drive it again I have the rear done and can't wait to do the front...they offer poly bushing sets and more...
http://www.firmfeel.com/fmj.htm
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]F, M, J BODY[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]ALUMINUM, BODY TO K FRAME MOUNTS[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Rick Ehrenberg, Tech Editor of Mopar Action Magazine, installed a set of these on his A-38 (cop package) 1978 Monaco. His report:[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]"Amazing! Since this setup ties the frame 'prongs' (longitudinal's) together, instead of allowing them to virtually flap in the breeze, the entire car feels - and IS - much more rigid. Now the K-member can do what it was originally designed to do - cross-brace the entire front end of the car. Not only is handling markedly better, road feel and wander incredibly improved, even squeaks and rattles are way down. Now it feels like a well set-up A-body sedan on steroids. Highly recommended. And, if you can believe this, this setup works even better on F, J, and M-bodies. If you've got one of those creatures, be it an Aspen R/T, Mirada CMX, or Dippy cop car, etc., don't even think about tackling the twisties without one of Firm Feel's setups."[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Aluminum Sub frame Isolators, for F.M.J. [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Kit includes, 4 isolators, bolts washers and weighs 7 1/2 lbs.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]$225.00 per set.[/FONT]
[/FONT]
Awesome, I was wondering where to find those sub-frame isolators. mine are destroyed. Also, I was wondering, are all FMJ upper and lower control arms interchangeable? I wanted to get the reinforced lowers offered by firm feel the tubular uppers look nice too
but you have to mail in your cores for the lowers. I was wondering if I could just pull some off of any junk FMJ and send them in so my car can stay on the road while they rebuild them.
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
I know F and M body are the same arm and would imagine the J-body is also the same.
Leizurtime
Well-Known Member
So it wouldn't matter if it were a slant 6 car or V8 car? Thinking of getting some off of a 79 slant 6 Aspen. My car is a 77 318 Volare.
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
Nope, engine size doesn't matter. They're all the same.
