A few more.
Nice Score,Looks real clean.
Looking at the shifter knob doesn’t tell you which transmission you have (it should – but is not 100% accurate – especially if the previous owner worked on the car, which is what happened to this car).
If you look under car towards transmission in vicinity of L/F door area, you should be able to see the shifter linkage. A cell phone camera makes this job easier.
What you are looking for is the front most external shift lever.
IF it looks like this, it has a conventional 4-speed A833 (all three rectangular levers point up).
If it looks like this, it is an Overdrive 4-speed A833 (front lever points down).
What Chrysler did, was left Forth gear alone (which is 1 to 1 ratio), changed the Third gear to Overdrive. Then they reversed the shifter linkage on 3-4 gear shift shaft.
Also, Second gear ratio was changed midway between First and Drive, due to a lack of a true Third gear (if any of that makes any sense).
There were no Overdrive A833’s installed behind performance engines. 318 2-bbl was the strongest engine they used (145 HP, max). Some people argue the Overdrive transmissions are no-where as strong as the non-overdrives are. I can’t argue for or against that statement.
Now, the any-year “cast-iron case” non-overdrive A833is a strong and durable unit.
While under the car (this might need car jacked up, first) is take a picture of the left side front corner of the differential center section. The last three digits number will tell you which differential you have - which will be either 741, 742 or 489 (to help find correct replacement parts).
This one is a "741"
Unless your ring and pinion gear set is damaged (or want to replace with a different ratio) – it generally is a lot less expensive to repair existing than to replace the assembly.
That said, having a spare to keep under the work bench is not a bad idea – but it can be pricy.
The only way to know what differential gear ratio you currently have is IF the previous owner left the tag on one of the ten carrier studs (which is unlikely) OR to remove the carrier from housing and look at ring gear stampings.
Anytime the rear axles are out (on an 8¾” or 9¾” Dana) – be sure to pack the rear wheel bearings with fresh grease! They need to be repacked often – but no one ever does.
Note: this does not apply to any stock 7¼” or 8¼” FMJ differentials – for the rear wheel bearings are lubricated in another manor.
I have been told more than once that the aluminium case is the week link in the OD transmission, they are prone to stretch with big hp..
First of all, I am not an A833 expert. I’ve rebuilt a few – but there are others a lot more knowledgeable about them than I.
I have been told there is not a lot of aluminum case A833’s out there and the ones that are out there, were for Feather Dusters and other light-weight A-bodies.
Aluminum tailhousings are popular – but not aluminum cases.
I can’t first-hand confirm or deny this information – but my recollection of working on them, seams to confirm this.
I worded it that way - just in case he happens to have an aluminum case A833.
Well, if you change your mind, I might be interested in the roller.
Thanks for all the great info. I haven’t checked the trans that closely yet but he had the conversion done at a shop that only works on Mopars. He says it’s the overdrive and the rebuilt spare trans that he included is a conventional 4 speed. The rear is a 742 case with sure grip. Supposedly 25000 miles on the drivetrain and about 50000 on the car.
Now it’s been in my shop for a few days and I gave it a quick bath and I’m quite happy with my purchase.
Some interior pics. Needs a serious cleaning but I think it will look awesome after a good scrub
Few more. Thankfully no one chopped up the interior for speakers or any other aftermarket stuff. Just the original radio is missing but that’s it.
The interior looks pretty nice. Like you said, it's good that nobody cut it up for speakers or other stuff, and the seats look good too. The cargo area could easily be lightly sanded and resprayed if you want to keep it more original looking. OY has no carpet in the cargo area either, but it's not marked up much at all. Anyway, I have ordered two extra yards of carpet from Stock Interiors in addition to the molded carpet so that I can carpet the cargo area. I have a set of cargo compartment doors from a parts car, and I am going to try to figure out how to mold the carpet to the rounded wheel humps too. I also want to find out what it would cost to have the edges bound on the three carpet pieces that are in the main area, the separator panel, and the seat back, which would make it look just like the original.
Cargo area looks great. Carpet in the back would be a nice addition. I’ve had some carpet edges bound at a local store and it was pretty cheap.
In my opinion – the carpet under the front seat doesn’t need to have edge(s) bound.
That said, the carpet in trunk area is highly recommended to do so.
Attached are pictures of the trunk area on my ’77 wagon:
A plastic strip to hold rear of trunk carpet in place.
The carpet just overlays the side panels.
Note: the bound carpet edges above and on last picture.
The carpet in my car looks tacky on the rear seat back and the panel between seat and trunk – where the carpet won’t stay attached.
You can see (four) screws with wide washers at each corner of the carpet
Note: I have only seen one other wagon up close without carpet in the rear (and without storage doors) – and I thought the owner had it removed. It appears carpet (and side doors) is an option (learn something every day).
Yes, it was an option, but one that was widely used. OY is only the second wagon that I have ever had without the cargo carpet. There were three levels of interior trim initially: base, Custom, and Special Edition (Aspen) or Premier (Volare). Only the base model did not have the cargo carpet in wagons. Starting in '78, apparently all options could be mixed and matched to some degree, so it is conceivable that a wagon could have an SE interior with a base exterior, or vice versa. I've seen some kind of mixed up too, for example with base bench seats with upgraded door panels, etc.
AH! I remember that strip! The earlier wagons didn't have it, but I think the later ones did. Humm, the black '77 Premier wagon that I got the plaid seats out of didn't have that plastic strip in the rear, so I don't have one. Going to have to try to figure out something that will work better than to just have the carpet sit there unattached.
I like the carpeted rear area. Think I'll do that. Looks good and stuff will slide around less. I also like those storage doors. I’m sure the chances of finding a set of those is next to zero.
Today i changed the grille on the wagon. I received an undamaged grill with the car. Looks far better. Man those grilles are fragile!! I was afraid to sneeze when handling it. Now I understand the riduculois prices I see online. I need to get some butyl tape to seal the turn signal lenses before i can finish up.
I also scrubbed the interior to remove years of dust and general grime. A night and day transformation. I just need to shampoo the carpet and the interior will be spotless.
Those grills are so brittle, you don't want to sneeze in the direction of the car, even if there is a wall (or sheet of glass) between you and the grill!
You were extremely lucky to get that nice grill in the deal. It looks great! I really hope that someday somebody will start to make repos for both the Volare and Aspen. Until then, we have to keep patching them together.
I had thought that too, but then I bought a black '77 Volare Premier parts car off CL in Tulsa OK a few years ago just to get the hard to find Highlander Plaid 60/40 seats which were in great condition and the right color. I drove about 1200 miles out there in my truck, and stripped EVERYTHING that I wanted off the car and left the carcass. In addition to the seats, I took the entire interior, and also got a set of Road Wheels with good tires and the hard to find passenger side remote mirror, but ALSO that's where I got rear cargo doors in the right color! So keep looking, there is a set out there for you somewhere. Even in they aren't in the right color, you can dye them to match.
The cargo doors are made so the hinge simply screws right into the existing screw holes, and you just have to mount the little wire latch on the top of the bin directly to the side panel. When you find a set, DON'T FORGET to take the wire latches! I'm going to recover the hatch covers that I have with some of the extra carpet that I ordered because, of course, they are faded. This is OY's plain Jane cargo area now.
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