Raff
Well-Known Member
A few more.
I worded it that way - just in case he happens to have an aluminum case A833.Now, the any-year “cast-iron case” non-overdrive A833is a strong and durable unit.
Well, if you change your mind, I might be interested in the roller.I didn’t really want it until I saw how rust free it was and then I had to have it.
Thanks for all the great info. I haven’t checked the trans that closely yet but he had the conversion done at a shop that only works on Mopars. He says it’s the overdrive and the rebuilt spare trans that he included is a conventional 4 speed. The rear is a 742 case with sure grip. Supposedly 25000 miles on the drivetrain and about 50000 on the car.Looking at the shifter knob doesn’t tell you which transmission you have (it should – but is not 100% accurate – especially if the previous owner worked on the car, which is what happened to this car).
If you look under car towards transmission in vicinity of L/F door area, you should be able to see the shifter linkage. A cell phone camera makes this job easier.
What you are looking for is the front most external shift lever.
View attachment 30168
IF it looks like this, it has a conventional 4-speed A833 (all three rectangular levers point up).
View attachment 30167
If it looks like this, it is an Overdrive 4-speed A833 (front lever points down).
What Chrysler did, was left Forth gear alone (which is 1 to 1 ratio), changed the Third gear to Overdrive. Then they reversed the shifter linkage on 3-4 gear shift shaft.
Also, Second gear ratio was changed midway between First and Drive, due to a lack of a true Third gear (if any of that makes any sense).
There were no Overdrive A833’s installed behind performance engines. 318 2-bbl was the strongest engine they used (145 HP, max). Some people argue the Overdrive transmissions are no-where as strong as the non-overdrives are. I can’t argue for or against that statement.
Now, the any-year “cast-iron case” non-overdrive A833is a strong and durable unit.
While under the car (this might need car jacked up, first) is take a picture of the left side front corner of the differential center section. The last three digits number will tell you which differential you have - which will be either 741, 742 or 489 (to help find correct replacement parts).
View attachment 30169
This one is a "741"
Unless your ring and pinion gear set is damaged (or want to replace with a different ratio) – it generally is a lot less expensive to repair existing than to replace the assembly.
That said, having a spare to keep under the work bench is not a bad idea – but it can be pricy.
The only way to know what differential gear ratio you currently have is IF the previous owner left the tag on one of the ten carrier studs (which is unlikely) OR to remove the carrier from housing and look at ring gear stampings.
View attachment 30170
View attachment 30171
Anytime the rear axles are out (on an 8¾” or 9¾” Dana) – be sure to pack the rear wheel bearings with fresh grease! They need to be repacked often – but no one ever does.
Note: this does not apply to any stock 7¼” or 8¼” FMJ differentials – for the rear wheel bearings are lubricated in another manor.
BudW
Now it’s been in my shop for a few days and I gave it a quick bath and I’m quite happy with my purchase.Well, if you change your mind, I might be interested in the roller.
Yes, it was an option, but one that was widely used. OY is only the second wagon that I have ever had without the cargo carpet. There were three levels of interior trim initially: base, Custom, and Special Edition (Aspen) or Premier (Volare). Only the base model did not have the cargo carpet in wagons. Starting in '78, apparently all options could be mixed and matched to some degree, so it is conceivable that a wagon could have an SE interior with a base exterior, or vice versa. I've seen some kind of mixed up too, for example with base bench seats with upgraded door panels, etc.It appears carpet (and side doors) is an option (learn something every day).
AH! I remember that strip! The earlier wagons didn't have it, but I think the later ones did. Humm, the black '77 Premier wagon that I got the plaid seats out of didn't have that plastic strip in the rear, so I don't have one. Going to have to try to figure out something that will work better than to just have the carpet sit there unattached.A plastic strip to hold rear of trunk carpet in place.
I had thought that too, but then I bought a black '77 Volare Premier parts car off CL in Tulsa OK a few years ago just to get the hard to find Highlander Plaid 60/40 seats which were in great condition and the right color. I drove about 1200 miles out there in my truck, and stripped EVERYTHING that I wanted off the car and left the carcass. In addition to the seats, I took the entire interior, and also got a set of Road Wheels with good tires and the hard to find passenger side remote mirror, but ALSO that's where I got rear cargo doors in the right color! So keep looking, there is a set out there for you somewhere. Even in they aren't in the right color, you can dye them to match.I also like those storage doors. I’m sure the chances of finding a set of those is next to zero.