1979 Volare wagon
- Thread starter Raff
- Start date
Locomotion
Well-Known Member
I guess it's on the buyer to determine if the doors are for the driver's side or passenger side. Both of those look like driver's side.
Both doors are for same side of car.
old yellow 78
Well-Known Member
There are three cargo doors on EB right now, all for the drivers side. I am pretty sure that I saw one not long ago for the passenger side on EB, so it might be farther back in the EB listings. Don't forget, that the doors from an M wagon would also fit, not that there are many more M's left in salvage yards either. BUT, look up cargo or compartment doors for Diplomat or Town & Country wagon too. Might get lucky.
old yellow 78
Well-Known Member
Hey Raff, snap a pic of your headliner to see which type it is.
Might be a good idea to take a picture facing towards rear and a picture facing towards front (then pick one).
BudW
BudW
Raff
Well-Known Member
Ill post a headliner pic for you soon. Been really busy at work lately.
Raff
Well-Known Member
Looks like the cargo doors are more readily available than I thought.
Raff
Well-Known Member
I met up with the previous owner the other day because he got in touch and said he had some stuff for the Volare that he wanted me to have. When i got the car he included as part of the deal a rebuilt trans and a set of 360 heads that had been rebuilt, ported and polished and most importantly a mint grille.
When we met again he gave me a nice set of dog dish caps, a set of what i think are 340 exhaust manifolds, a brand new adjustable pinion snubber, valve covers, an extra turn signal lens, a bellhousing and a folder full of paperwork going back many years. Some of the documentation includes the original owners manual, warranty card, a document that is similar to a build sheet, receipts for various repairs, the receipts that document the 360/4 speed swap, gas receipts with mileage, drag strip time slips and more. Kind of interesting to look through the history of a car you now own.
When we met again he gave me a nice set of dog dish caps, a set of what i think are 340 exhaust manifolds, a brand new adjustable pinion snubber, valve covers, an extra turn signal lens, a bellhousing and a folder full of paperwork going back many years. Some of the documentation includes the original owners manual, warranty card, a document that is similar to a build sheet, receipts for various repairs, the receipts that document the 360/4 speed swap, gas receipts with mileage, drag strip time slips and more. Kind of interesting to look through the history of a car you now own.
Raff
Well-Known Member
OY Here is a shot of the headliner. I took it from the back looking forward. I tried for a second from front to back but the angle was no good. Its the peeforated cardboard type. Nearly perfect except for a bit of a sag around the middle. Im thinking any attempt to fix that will likely make matters worse. Wondering of any of you have tackled that job and how did it turn out.
Outstanding job, mate. A great car along with the huge stack of paperwork (and spare parts as well)!
The bottom exhaust manifold is a ’68-70 340 Right side manifold. The upper one cold be as well – but you would need to get the casting number off it first to verify – but I suspect it to also one of the best flowing small block exhaust manifolds made (except for headers).
Both (if the Left side is from a 340) manifolds are highly sought out and can be sold for a nice sum.
The Left side 340 exhaust manifold casting number is 2863553 (and 2863549 on the Right (lower picture). The Right side would be worth more if the flap, the weight and spring were still installed (instead of being welded over) – but most all of them are in that condition, now.
The Left side manifold will fit your wagon just fine (if wanted).
The Right-side manifold will require a 90’ oil filter adaptor before it will fit.
The hub caps look almost the same as what my wagon has – and just about the same condition.
The pinion snubber (white arrow) is only really used for racing professionally.
Matter of fact – I doubt it will fit your wagon or fit your differential (unless you have an 8¾” differential installed, which you might). I want to get a snubber like that – but hadn’t because I just don’t think it will fit (too tall).
These are mid to late ‘70’s small block 4-bbl valve covers. The top one will fit most small blocks. The bracket by the black breather is for the EGR Vacuum Amplifier (if used). The bottom one has the tall bracket to clear the transmission kickdown linkage and is kinda hard to find. Not really worth much except for someone making exact duplicate car. A 2-bbl valve cover works fine for most 4-bbl changeovers.
360 cylinder heads from about ’74 until mid ‘80’s. Nothing special or worth a lot of money – but nice to have, especially if a person is planning on an engine rebuild soon. You might want to get some engine bags and bag them up before they get rusty or bugs make a home in them (I don’t know your climate, in this area the humidity is high, and rust happens overnight, as well as becomes home to insects or other pests).
Note: these heads do not have the A.I.R. injection ports drilled into them – so are real handy if someone is trying to get rid of some emission components on an FMJ vehicle.
Your A833. Without looking at the external shifter levers – you can’t tell if an overdrive or not. You said earlier it is a regular 4-speed – which is fine. My question is the case or tailhousing (red arrows) made of cast iron or aluminum? Either way, it is great to stick under the bench for later.
Note: I do recommend rotating the input and output shafts (or input shaft with transmission placed into any gear) a few turns every year or so, so all internal gears and bearings get some oil spread around. I have seen A833’s gears rust internally and become pitted over time from not doing so. Pitted gears are still strong but are extra noisy when driving, not counting the extra iron in the fluid causing additional damage.
BudW
The bottom exhaust manifold is a ’68-70 340 Right side manifold. The upper one cold be as well – but you would need to get the casting number off it first to verify – but I suspect it to also one of the best flowing small block exhaust manifolds made (except for headers).
Both (if the Left side is from a 340) manifolds are highly sought out and can be sold for a nice sum.
The Left side 340 exhaust manifold casting number is 2863553 (and 2863549 on the Right (lower picture). The Right side would be worth more if the flap, the weight and spring were still installed (instead of being welded over) – but most all of them are in that condition, now.
The Left side manifold will fit your wagon just fine (if wanted).
The Right-side manifold will require a 90’ oil filter adaptor before it will fit.
The hub caps look almost the same as what my wagon has – and just about the same condition.
The pinion snubber (white arrow) is only really used for racing professionally.
Matter of fact – I doubt it will fit your wagon or fit your differential (unless you have an 8¾” differential installed, which you might). I want to get a snubber like that – but hadn’t because I just don’t think it will fit (too tall).
These are mid to late ‘70’s small block 4-bbl valve covers. The top one will fit most small blocks. The bracket by the black breather is for the EGR Vacuum Amplifier (if used). The bottom one has the tall bracket to clear the transmission kickdown linkage and is kinda hard to find. Not really worth much except for someone making exact duplicate car. A 2-bbl valve cover works fine for most 4-bbl changeovers.
360 cylinder heads from about ’74 until mid ‘80’s. Nothing special or worth a lot of money – but nice to have, especially if a person is planning on an engine rebuild soon. You might want to get some engine bags and bag them up before they get rusty or bugs make a home in them (I don’t know your climate, in this area the humidity is high, and rust happens overnight, as well as becomes home to insects or other pests).
Note: these heads do not have the A.I.R. injection ports drilled into them – so are real handy if someone is trying to get rid of some emission components on an FMJ vehicle.
Your A833. Without looking at the external shifter levers – you can’t tell if an overdrive or not. You said earlier it is a regular 4-speed – which is fine. My question is the case or tailhousing (red arrows) made of cast iron or aluminum? Either way, it is great to stick under the bench for later.
Note: I do recommend rotating the input and output shafts (or input shaft with transmission placed into any gear) a few turns every year or so, so all internal gears and bearings get some oil spread around. I have seen A833’s gears rust internally and become pitted over time from not doing so. Pitted gears are still strong but are extra noisy when driving, not counting the extra iron in the fluid causing additional damage.
BudW
old yellow 78
Well-Known Member
That's the same design (pressed in ridges) that is in my OY. As far as messing with the small bit of sag - I'd leave it alone. Not bad enough to mess with, and could really cause some problems if you did.
Raff
Well-Known Member
That's the same design (pressed in ridges) that is in my OY. As far as messing with the small bit of sag - I'd leave it alone. Not bad enough to mess with, and could really cause some problems if you did.
When it falls on my head Ill worry anout it!!
Raff
Well-Known Member
Bud
Thanks for all the great info. I checked the manifold serial #’s and they're 68-7? 340. I may use them. Haven't decided yet. The car has a nice dual exhaust on it now with Flow Master mufflers and a pair of high flow cats. Im thinking of pulling the drivetrain this winter and cleaning up the motor and engine compartment, fixing the tranny issue and modifying the exhaust. Im not a huge fan of headers. Realistically I'm just interested on building a nice driver that can go on long distance drives.
The hub caps are definitely going to be sold. I love the body colour rims and dog dishes but im thinking of getting a nice set of cop rims, powder coatimg them a gun metal grey and seeing if i can put some rallye wheel centre caps on them.
Pinion snubber is being sold. No use for it. My wagon does have an 8 3/4 with 3.23 and a sure grip.
The valve covers Ill probably use and sell the chrome Edelbrocks.
I checked the serial #’s on the heads and you're right, nothing special. They do look like they've had a fresh rebuild and they've defintely had some porting and polishing so again i might use them or sell them. Ill decide over the winter.
As for the transmission I'm very fortunate. An old high school friend owns a transmission shop about an hour from my house. He said he’ll rebuild one or both with a friends and family discount. The one in the car is an overdrive with a nasty noise and the extra is supposedly a non overdrive four speed and the case and tail are cast iron. I think the overdrive is the one I’d keep.
Once again thanks for the info. Lots of great reading here.
I won’t make any progress on the wagon until winter. Ive got a huge list of things to do on our house before i retire which will hopefully be in about 18 months.
Headers vs. Manifolds – that argument has gone on for decades and will continue for more decades.
Headers will flow more air – but are noisier, leak more, can have rust issues, get in the way on some repairs, sometimes don’t fit well and sometimes hit speed bumps or other pavement issues.
Exhaust manifolds are quitter, will almost always fit and ongoing maintaince is rarely a concern (like tightening bolts. Leaky gaskets, etc.)
Personally, I like my cars to be quiet and as maintaince free as possible – even if I have a loss of power because of it. Also, I’ve worked on enough headers that I’m sick of them already.
To back up a bit, The Right exhaust manifold (cast # 2863549 - the one that looks like a flat “Y”) was used in ’68-70 A-body and ’70 E-body. The Left side manifold (cast # 2863553) was used from ’68-70 A-body and ’70 E-body (as well) – but also in ’71 (A, B and E-body) – IF the air cleaner design used did not use the heated air from Left side manifold (aka: used the fresh air system, instead).
The 340’s that used a conventional air cleaner uses a heater duct on manifold to heat the air to aid with cold weather drivability. The ’71 and newer 340 Left manifolds (with conventional air cleaners) – look the same as older ones – but has extra bosses cast in to attach the hot air (stove) tin. The ’71-72 Left side still flows about the same, only looks slightly different.
The ’71 and newer Right side looks more like a log style and just don’t flow the same.
In ’73, the Left side got smaller, as well.
That pair of exhaust manifolds are being repop’ed and is available from Year One, for about $700 (US). I would hang onto yours if you are not planning on using them (in other words, don’t toss them away).
I’ve got a rusty pair sitting in my garage and just waiting for me to install ‘em onto something.
The pair of cylinder heads flow the same as all 340/360’s (with 1.88” intake valves) from ‘71ish until the magnum engines came out in 1992. Installing 2.02” intake valves into your cylinder heads will net better air flow (the same as the ’68 to ‘71ish “X” or “J” cylinder heads will) – but not as well as the Magnum cylinder heads do (1992-2003). It takes a bit to convert a small block to use Magnum cylinder heads – so if looking for more power – one would need to consider yours vs. aftermarket aluminum heads vs, Magnum changeover.
When Chrysler went to the A.I.R. injection system for emissions usage, they widened the flange on the cylinder head. They also drilled holes in that wider flange for the A.I.R. air ports. A person can’t use newer exhaust manifolds (about ’74 to ’93) on older cylinder heads without modification to emissions equipment or to exhaust manifolds. Your cylinder heads have the wider flange, but no holes drilled (which is rare) – so it will fit all LA small blocks from ’64-93 (not Poly and not Magnum) – which is a big plus. Also, I assume that the bigger valves have been installed, if someone had ported your heads. Not something to write home about – but are still very usable heads (almost trouble free).
318 (has smaller intake/exhaust ports than 340/360) with A.I.R. holes drilled
Your wide flange but without A.I.R. ports drilled
Older 318 with older smaller (not as tall) exhaust flange.
As far as I’m aware, all F-body non-styled wheels came from factory painted “black” – but don’t quote me on that (as soon as I say it is written in stone, I will be proved wrong . . .). That does include the police wheels, which also came in black. There is a slightly different version of the police wheel that came on Super Coups that were painted (Argent, I think ?) – but they do not have a provision for the small hubcaps to attach.
That said – it is your car and if you want to paint wheels the body color, I will not complain one bit – for honestly, I don’t know why they didn’t come that way to begin with (I prefer body colored wheels).
My plans for my wagon is to install 15” police wheels (in black) and use the small hubcaps – because I want to keep the appearance mostly stock (which is my preference). I also have plans on installing 11” rear brake drums and 11¾” front brake rotors – both of which will not work with 14” wheels (which are present), so replacement wheels are mandatory.
For my ’86 Fifth Ave, I will be replacing the stock 15” wheels with Police wheels – but they will be hidden behind the stock lockable wire hubcaps (to maintain the sleeper effect). I love the 5on5 and 10-spoke Mirada wheels – but they only came 15x6” – which is a bit narrower than I want to use (need wider tires, for the way I drive). There are a couple of venders still making police wheels new and will make to your specifications at a decent price ( . . . unless you are buying 10 of them at once (2 sets of 4, plus 2 spares), like I’m planning on).
I heard the 4.5x5 bolt pattern Rallye caps will fit the police (or regular) wheels – but have no first-hand knowledge there. Hopefully someone else can speak up, on that.
A833 transmissions: There are a few Aluminum cases out there (not a lot) – but most are cast iron (which is fine). The aluminum cases are troublesome anyway.
Almost all the tailhousings made from early ‘70’s is made of aluminum – which I would recommend installing (less weight – especially trying to heft it back in place).
There are two different length tailhousing – short (A, F, M and J-body) and long (everything else). The short tailhousings are completely interchangeable between iron and aluminum and there are no issues about strength or fitment. If your overdrive transmission has an aluminum housing – I would swap ‘em out before install.
The non-overdrive transmission will be a lot more fun to drive in town – but not as good for fuel mileage if planning on driving it a lot (which you said you will be).
Just make sure to change position of the front link if you are changing it between overdrive or back.
I visited my brother this weekend and he mentioned about looking for an adjustable pinion snubber for his race car. I don’t know if he has an 8¾” or a Dana in his car (which are different), but said if I found one for sale I’d let him know.
If you would send me a PM on your wanted price and I will relay it to him. Also, I would be interested in your driver quality small hub caps if/when you are ready to sell. If so, just send me a PM on it, as well.
BudW
Headers will flow more air – but are noisier, leak more, can have rust issues, get in the way on some repairs, sometimes don’t fit well and sometimes hit speed bumps or other pavement issues.
Exhaust manifolds are quitter, will almost always fit and ongoing maintaince is rarely a concern (like tightening bolts. Leaky gaskets, etc.)
Personally, I like my cars to be quiet and as maintaince free as possible – even if I have a loss of power because of it. Also, I’ve worked on enough headers that I’m sick of them already.
To back up a bit, The Right exhaust manifold (cast # 2863549 - the one that looks like a flat “Y”) was used in ’68-70 A-body and ’70 E-body. The Left side manifold (cast # 2863553) was used from ’68-70 A-body and ’70 E-body (as well) – but also in ’71 (A, B and E-body) – IF the air cleaner design used did not use the heated air from Left side manifold (aka: used the fresh air system, instead).
The 340’s that used a conventional air cleaner uses a heater duct on manifold to heat the air to aid with cold weather drivability. The ’71 and newer 340 Left manifolds (with conventional air cleaners) – look the same as older ones – but has extra bosses cast in to attach the hot air (stove) tin. The ’71-72 Left side still flows about the same, only looks slightly different.
The ’71 and newer Right side looks more like a log style and just don’t flow the same.
In ’73, the Left side got smaller, as well.
That pair of exhaust manifolds are being repop’ed and is available from Year One, for about $700 (US). I would hang onto yours if you are not planning on using them (in other words, don’t toss them away).
I’ve got a rusty pair sitting in my garage and just waiting for me to install ‘em onto something.
The pair of cylinder heads flow the same as all 340/360’s (with 1.88” intake valves) from ‘71ish until the magnum engines came out in 1992. Installing 2.02” intake valves into your cylinder heads will net better air flow (the same as the ’68 to ‘71ish “X” or “J” cylinder heads will) – but not as well as the Magnum cylinder heads do (1992-2003). It takes a bit to convert a small block to use Magnum cylinder heads – so if looking for more power – one would need to consider yours vs. aftermarket aluminum heads vs, Magnum changeover.
When Chrysler went to the A.I.R. injection system for emissions usage, they widened the flange on the cylinder head. They also drilled holes in that wider flange for the A.I.R. air ports. A person can’t use newer exhaust manifolds (about ’74 to ’93) on older cylinder heads without modification to emissions equipment or to exhaust manifolds. Your cylinder heads have the wider flange, but no holes drilled (which is rare) – so it will fit all LA small blocks from ’64-93 (not Poly and not Magnum) – which is a big plus. Also, I assume that the bigger valves have been installed, if someone had ported your heads. Not something to write home about – but are still very usable heads (almost trouble free).
318 (has smaller intake/exhaust ports than 340/360) with A.I.R. holes drilled
Your wide flange but without A.I.R. ports drilled
Older 318 with older smaller (not as tall) exhaust flange.
As far as I’m aware, all F-body non-styled wheels came from factory painted “black” – but don’t quote me on that (as soon as I say it is written in stone, I will be proved wrong . . .). That does include the police wheels, which also came in black. There is a slightly different version of the police wheel that came on Super Coups that were painted (Argent, I think ?) – but they do not have a provision for the small hubcaps to attach.
That said – it is your car and if you want to paint wheels the body color, I will not complain one bit – for honestly, I don’t know why they didn’t come that way to begin with (I prefer body colored wheels).
My plans for my wagon is to install 15” police wheels (in black) and use the small hubcaps – because I want to keep the appearance mostly stock (which is my preference). I also have plans on installing 11” rear brake drums and 11¾” front brake rotors – both of which will not work with 14” wheels (which are present), so replacement wheels are mandatory.
For my ’86 Fifth Ave, I will be replacing the stock 15” wheels with Police wheels – but they will be hidden behind the stock lockable wire hubcaps (to maintain the sleeper effect). I love the 5on5 and 10-spoke Mirada wheels – but they only came 15x6” – which is a bit narrower than I want to use (need wider tires, for the way I drive). There are a couple of venders still making police wheels new and will make to your specifications at a decent price ( . . . unless you are buying 10 of them at once (2 sets of 4, plus 2 spares), like I’m planning on).
I heard the 4.5x5 bolt pattern Rallye caps will fit the police (or regular) wheels – but have no first-hand knowledge there. Hopefully someone else can speak up, on that.
A833 transmissions: There are a few Aluminum cases out there (not a lot) – but most are cast iron (which is fine). The aluminum cases are troublesome anyway.
Almost all the tailhousings made from early ‘70’s is made of aluminum – which I would recommend installing (less weight – especially trying to heft it back in place).
There are two different length tailhousing – short (A, F, M and J-body) and long (everything else). The short tailhousings are completely interchangeable between iron and aluminum and there are no issues about strength or fitment. If your overdrive transmission has an aluminum housing – I would swap ‘em out before install.
The non-overdrive transmission will be a lot more fun to drive in town – but not as good for fuel mileage if planning on driving it a lot (which you said you will be).
Just make sure to change position of the front link if you are changing it between overdrive or back.
I visited my brother this weekend and he mentioned about looking for an adjustable pinion snubber for his race car. I don’t know if he has an 8¾” or a Dana in his car (which are different), but said if I found one for sale I’d let him know.
If you would send me a PM on your wanted price and I will relay it to him. Also, I would be interested in your driver quality small hub caps if/when you are ready to sell. If so, just send me a PM on it, as well.
BudW
ZieglerSpeed
Well-Known Member
I'd be interested in the non o/d 4 spd if you decide to unload it
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
How many do you want?
I'm in north Iowa.
ZieglerSpeed
Well-Known Member
I'm interested in the 4-spds with the big input bearing/retainer like the o/d's use
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
I believe I have two 68s and one 69 left.
ZieglerSpeed
Well-Known Member
ok, thnks, I'd be lookin for 74, 75
