WANTED 77 Volare rear leaf springs

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Leizurtime said:
The car is sitting on 4 jack stands. I suppose I could get a level and adjust accordingly.
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Unsnap and remove the metal master cylinder cap. Get a level and place on the master cylinder top and measure both ways. Raise car accordingly. It doesn’t need to be exact. I have feeling it is close already.

NOTE: do not leave a brake master cylinder cap off for long and always tighten the brake fluid bottles tightly after each usage!

What happens is brake fluid likes to absorb water moisture – which is bad.
One - it lowers the boiling point of brake fluid.
Two - when water is in a boiled state – it is still water (in this case not mixed in with brake fluid at the time). What does water and steel/iron like to do when together – RUST!
Rubber seals/parts constantly rubbing against rust OR against a smooth rust free bore – which will wear out the rubber faster?

A lot of manufactures say to change the brake fluid every couple of years – mainly because of the water moisture absorption reason – but not all do.

The only thing I see in my FMJ service manuals is to inspect the master fluid level (only) every six months.

I don’t go out of my way to change my brake fluid often but it does get changed every few years due to stuck brake calipers, leaking wheel cylinders and the occasional rusted brake line.
That said and looking at my past repair history, it may be in my best interest to change brake fluid every couple of years . . .
 
BudW said:
Unsnap and remove the metal master cylinder cap. Get a level and place on the master cylinder top and measure both ways. Raise car accordingly. It doesn’t need to be exact. I have feeling it is close already.

NOTE: do not leave a brake master cylinder cap off for long and always tighten the brake fluid bottles tightly after each usage!

What happens is brake fluid likes to absorb water moisture – which is bad.
One - it lowers the boiling point of brake fluid.
Two - when water is in a boiled state – it is still water (in this case not mixed in with brake fluid at the time). What does water and steel/iron like to do when together – RUST!
Rubber seals/parts constantly rubbing against rust OR against a smooth rust free bore – which will wear out the rubber faster?

A lot of manufactures say to change the brake fluid every couple of years – mainly because of the water moisture absorption reason – but not all do.

The only thing I see in my FMJ service manuals is to inspect the master fluid level (only) every six months.

I don’t go out of my way to change my brake fluid often but it does get changed every few years due to stuck brake calipers, leaking wheel cylinders and the occasional rusted brake line.
That said and looking at my past repair history, it may be in my best interest to change brake fluid every couple of years . . .
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Okay, I bench bleed the new master cylinder on the car and all seemed to have been going as planned, until I started a reverse bleed at the passenger rear wheel. Still the same problem, can't get no fluid to push through. Bleeder is locked solid, so I'm convinced the lines are full of gunk and are bounding up at the small ports throughout the system. This would make sense as I noticed debris in the old master cylinder. There was only one wheel that would bleed, the passenger front and the master cylinder had allot of mirk in it when reverse bleeding. The driver front wheel took a few pumps then locked up. All I can think to do, is disconnect the metal lines and try to purge them. The car sat for twenty years, theres a good chance all the lines are full of moisture, rust, and debris.

But on a brighter note, the engine is all back together and I fired her up with all new ignition components :D She purrs like a kitten. I was having difficulty trying to find the timing settings for it. The emissions label is long gone and there seems to be allot of speculation on the web. Then I read somewhere you can set the timing using a vacuum gauge, so this is what I tried. Mostly what I read lead me to believe the timing should be between TDC and 5 Degrees BTDC @ 750 rpm. When I tried this, the engine was sluggish and read @ 14" or less and would stall by barely tapping the throttle. I adjusted the distributor and got the manifold vacuum up to about 20" and she was running like a champ! So this is where I set the timing. Problem is, the timing mark seems to be way off and the engine compartment is so tight I can't barely see the timing marks with the power steering and air pump brackets in the way. I know the timing is well beyond either 10 degrees before or after TDC :confused: I can't see the timing mark anywhere. I think I committed a boo boo too, by using manifold vacuum and not port vacuum. I'm reading now that this could be an issue. No matter, the car is being towed to another storage spot closer to home and I'll be able to fine tune it there very soon.
 
Pictures from my ’77 Volare 318 2-bbl Auto (Federal). Even with 38k garage kept miles, my stickers are almost ready to come off.
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Pictures from my ’77 Chrysler Service Manual.
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Vacuum Diagm.JPG

I think the propane method takes too long and doesn’t give any better results than using a vacuum gauge and tach, for these cars.


Not sure what to say about the brakes – but you are on the correct path.
Bleeding.JPG
 
Leizurtime said:
Problem is, the timing mark seems to be way off and . . .
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I would say there is an extremely good chance the outer balancer ring has slipped (no longer clocked to the inner hub) and if so, you will not be able to set timing off of the timing mark on balancer mark.

You may have to set it using trial and error (which is time consuming).
 
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