5thtimesthecharm
Well-Known Member
Ahh ok great, thanks
My first post and it's a doozy
- Thread starter 5thtimesthecharm
- Start date
5thtimesthecharm
Well-Known Member
Where the eccentric contacts the pump arm is smooth as a baby's bottom.
Width of the contact mark on both matches in width
Width of the contact mark on both matches in width
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AMC Diplomat
Well-Known Member
I bet that pump arm is riding around in an elliptical pattern and not just straight up and down, and as it completes a revolution it kisses the chain
5thtimesthecharm
Well-Known Member
I'll get the new pump as well then, recommendations?
Replace this one with the same model
Carter M60519
Or
Carter M6866
Delphi MF0017
Those are the pumps that should be the quickest delivery time and easiest to obtain, all are around $50-$60
My understanding is that Carter is(or was) the best, and was what came from the factory, but if the Carter I got has already failed I'm not sure how I feel about trying with another Carter....
Also this is just for my personal future knowledge should the 5.9 swap happen or should I just end up wanting to, how much of a pita is swapping to an electronic fuel pump?
Worth it?
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AMC Diplomat
Well-Known Member
I'm running an $18 Airtex I bought off ebay. That was with tax and shipping. So don't break the bank. I buy a lot of stuff off ebay dirt friggin cheap.
One of the guys who has added an electric pump would have the answer on that. I would just redneck it and throw an inline pump on it. But there are people who have put real in tank pumps in/changed tanks
5thtimesthecharm
Well-Known Member
How long has the airtex lasted so far?
As for cost well, Canada is terrible lol
You can typically expect 25-50$ in shipping charges alone from the USA. Not to mention converted prices, so there $20 part quickly becomes $50-$70
Ebay hasn't been any better, lately I've noticed every shipping cost skyrocket. It's funny how cheap things used to be.
And just figured I'd ask, I have very easy access to an inline pump for probably $20 or less. So I figured if it's worth doing might as well grab it, and have it for a rainy day that's all.
Mikes5thAve
Well-Known Member
I've never run an electric pump unless it was temporary. A mechanical pump should be OK. I always get whatever the cheapest is locally unless there is huge savings from online.
5thtimesthecharm
Well-Known Member
I called and asked, I have a pretty nice discount at my local parts store and even with that it would cost me around the same as rockauto.
Napa is even worse especially ever since they sold out and corporatized. At least locally here prettymuch everything from nappa is around 15-20% marked up from the other local stores.
That said I was doing some reading on a different forum about the Carter pumps.
Apparently back in 2020-2021 because of the pandemic Carter was having their pumps made in China, after their Korean builder went under, and Mexico.
Long story short if you had a Chinese pump they werent made right and had a lot of issues.
Korean pumps weren't as bad, you could tell if you got a Korean pump by the gaskets that came with it in box. They were green. As opposed to the black/grey gaskets you got in the Chinese or Mexico made units.
Mexico made units were the good ones.
Since then they are no longer made in China,
That's also roughly when I purchased my pump, and I know for certain mine did not come with green gaskets.
50/50 chance wether I got a Chinese or Mexican unit. I don't have the box anymore but I'll take a look for an origin stamping tonight.
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Aspen500
Well-Known Member
Decided to delete my China rant that I posted here earlier. 
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AMC Diplomat
Well-Known Member
Over a year now. It was made in USA. Idk people shy away from new in box parts just because the parts are old. If it said "Mopar" on the box people would throw away their money just to get it. But, oh no, it's aftermarket and old so it must be junk
5thtimesthecharm
Well-Known Member
Not necessarily, with the steady decline in replacement part build and quality I would sooner take a new in box from 10 years ago (or 20 if I could find it) than anything built in the last 5 years.Over a year now. It was made in USA. Idk people shy away from new in box parts just because the parts are old. If it said "Mopar" on the box people would throw away their money just to get it. But, oh no, it's aftermarket and old so it must be junk
Oh don't worry we all know haha even my rice doesn't taste like rice anymore.....or maybe that's the years of beer drinking killing my taste buds, who knowsDecided to delete my China rant that I posted here earlier.
Mikes5thAve
Well-Known Member
It depends on the part. Rubber goes bad with age and all the worse if it's been cooking for years in a building attic or sea can so while something might be made better it doesn't make a difference if it fails prematurely.
BTW, the two carters are $29.99 and $39.99 at part source.
BTW, the two carters are $29.99 and $39.99 at part source.
5thtimesthecharm
Well-Known Member
You make a very valid point.
That said does part source ship?
I don't see an option to do so, and the closest store to me is 1.5h away
5thtimesthecharm
Well-Known Member
I got poking around a little bit and noticed something, pics attached. Isn't at least one of these bolts for the plate supposed to have an oil drip hole? Because none of them do. Or not needed?
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
IIRC, the lower right (looking from the front) thrust plate bolt had the hole. Later versions don't have a bolt, just a locating tab on the oil baffle (brain fog on the correct term) that goes in the the hole. That's where the chain oil supply comes from. Can't see yours in the pic, but would imagine it uses the tab.
5thtimesthecharm
Well-Known Member
Ahh ok, understood. Thank ya
So far the chain and fuel pump have arrived, still waiting on the slinger and tcover
So far the chain and fuel pump have arrived, still waiting on the slinger and tcover
5thtimesthecharm
Well-Known Member
Welp, square one, is there supposed to be a new chain break in period or something?
New melling OEM chain, new timing cover/gasket, new fuel pump, lubed the arm, all torqued to spec still tics like mad right from first startup.
Switched back to the old cover, still does it.
Car starts like a top every time.
Timing is solid.
Turned over the motor a few times by hand, no bind ups outside of the norm.
Can't adjust the fuel pump any more than 1mm at the bolts, doesn't make much if any difference. The fuel pump arm has plenty of oil on it after running, plus some splashed up into the fuel pump hole, not even counting the break in grease I applied to the arm. Picture of the pump arm wear after a few minutes of running. Looks pretty consistent to me. There are no scratches or marks on the sides of the arm. Though it is strange that the wear pattern is on the side opposite from the eccentric mount.
Removing the pump entirely DOES remove 95% of the sound.
I found the original fuel pump that was in the car, it's rough but it's the exact same design as the old one. Or rather the arm is the same as the last one and this current one.
But to sum up new melling OEM chain which is the exact same design as the one I took off, replacement mancini timing cover/and tested with old timing cover, oil slinger added, new Carter fuel pump. Only inside part not changed is the pump eccentric.
Some further testing.
Ticking in all gears.
At idle, and of course taking into consideration that sound is dependant on individual people, I can rev up to about 2200rpm and the sound starts to disappear, at 3000rpm it is gone, or at least not audible.
Which leads me to believe the eccentric to pump contact has nothing to do with it.
And still does it regardless of which cover is on.
Bright side, it does look much nicer up front with the new parts.
Bad side, I'm stumped.
New melling OEM chain, new timing cover/gasket, new fuel pump, lubed the arm, all torqued to spec still tics like mad right from first startup.
Switched back to the old cover, still does it.
Car starts like a top every time.
Timing is solid.
Turned over the motor a few times by hand, no bind ups outside of the norm.
Can't adjust the fuel pump any more than 1mm at the bolts, doesn't make much if any difference. The fuel pump arm has plenty of oil on it after running, plus some splashed up into the fuel pump hole, not even counting the break in grease I applied to the arm. Picture of the pump arm wear after a few minutes of running. Looks pretty consistent to me. There are no scratches or marks on the sides of the arm. Though it is strange that the wear pattern is on the side opposite from the eccentric mount.
Removing the pump entirely DOES remove 95% of the sound.
I found the original fuel pump that was in the car, it's rough but it's the exact same design as the old one. Or rather the arm is the same as the last one and this current one.
But to sum up new melling OEM chain which is the exact same design as the one I took off, replacement mancini timing cover/and tested with old timing cover, oil slinger added, new Carter fuel pump. Only inside part not changed is the pump eccentric.
Some further testing.
Ticking in all gears.
At idle, and of course taking into consideration that sound is dependant on individual people, I can rev up to about 2200rpm and the sound starts to disappear, at 3000rpm it is gone, or at least not audible.
Which leads me to believe the eccentric to pump contact has nothing to do with it.
And still does it regardless of which cover is on.
Bright side, it does look much nicer up front with the new parts.
Bad side, I'm stumped.
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AMC Diplomat
Well-Known Member
That pump wear still looks really wide. Stupid question, which way did you put the washer back on the eccentric?
5thtimesthecharm
Well-Known Member
Stupid answer, Second picture, with the cup facing in and covering the end of the cam.
AMC Diplomat
Well-Known Member
Well, my only other idea is that whoever did the timing chain before used the wrong eccentric and that's why all these fuel pumps are chattering, but that's a huge speculation
