Off season Aspen projects have begun

[Aspen500]

The right side spark plug access is,,,,,,,,,,,,,,tight. May depend on what headers you use also. The Schumacher ones don't really cause any plug issues.
The back two plugs a can get with a plug socket using a wrench on the sockets hex. The front 2 requires removing the control arm bolt access panel.
Of course the left side is much easier but cyl #3 need the wrench on the socket because the steering box and lines are right there.

As an after thought, I notched the A/C recirc duct and made a screw on panel for better access to the rear lower valve cover bolt. Before that I had to loosen the motor mount and jack the engine up a bit and then use a 1/4" extension and swivel socket. When I had the engine out to build it,,,,,,,,,,,,,again,,,,,,,,,,,,is when I did the modification. Knowing before hand would have great, could have welded a piece in and smoothed it all out. Never had the MP covers on in the cars previous life, only stock ones which didn't cause any problems.
Should have seen me trying to cut the section out on a finished car without scratching, chipping or otherwise efing up the paint. Just a little nervous, lol.

Obviously if you have A/C it makes right cover removal tough. The lines and expansion valve have to come off or the cover won't fit, which means always discharging the air if the cover has to come off for any reason. A minor inconvenience in the grand scheme of things though! I'm so used to taking half a car apart to get a valve or cam cover off,,,,,,,,,,,or just to change plugs at work it doesn't bother me very much to do the same on my own car. It's like "normal" lol.

The pic above is while putting the engine in after the 2nd build. You can see what i meant by the trans cooler lines and hoses.

 

[BudW]

Not sure when Chrysler went from transmission cooler lines piped/screwed straight to radiator to having a short piece of hose between the two. The cars with hoses have less line breakage – but have more leakage at the hoses (mainly with cars with Lock-Up, sense transmission cooler pressure is a lot higher than cars without Lock-Up).


Are you are not using the Schumacher engine mounts?
How did you work out the difference with Right mount being in more forward?


My ’86 has A/C but firewall is completely different ('80-up design), so the firewall air box is not an issue. The A/C hoses will be (can be?) an issue sense the expansion valve tilts towards the engine (not flat like ’76-79 version is.
My ’77 is a no-A/C car, so it doesn’t have air box but will have same issue when I convert it to ’80-up firewall holes/lines.


I can’t quite make it out in pictures. Do you have a 400 or a 440 block?

I’m going with stroked 400’s sense they are ¾” shorter and ¾” narrower than a 440 is.
Also going with stamped steel valve covers (and Chrysler Blue paint) and using HP manifolds – which could make plugs a problem.

 

[Aspen500]

The mounts are stock OEM big block spool type off of an unknown donor. I have the right one bolted to the front of the block bosses instead of behind and it lined up perfectly. I cut the front upper boss down to line up with the front lower one. The upper bosses are thicker with the extra material to the front of the engine (as I'm sure you already know).

If you have an M-body or '80 F-body you're right, the recirc duct isn't isn't an issue. I'd think the expansion valve wouldn't be so much in the way either, in it's different location.

The block is an RB 440 (now 500" heh-heh) with '65 closed chamber 413 heads that have been gasket matched, had the bowls opened up and 440 exhaust valves installed and some mild port work.

Having the short cooler hoses does make more sense than a rigid connection. One of the reasons I put flex pipes in the exhaust just downstream of the header outlets. Less stress on the system and the pipes can be routed closer to things without hitting and doesn't need as much cushion in the mountings among other reasons.

The valve cover studs and nuts I ordered got here today so,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,off to the garage. Ended up getting Dorman studs and some nice ARP stainless 12 pt nuts. Didn't see any ARP studs that size but the Dorman's should be fine.

 

[Justwondering]

Aspen500 -- what's the 'block boss' or 'upper boss'? I'm looking through my service manual, but I can't find that term.

 

[Aspen500]

"boss" refers to a mounting tab cast into the block (or other component) that something is bolted to.
Picture worth a thousand words. In the picture you can see the one I cut down (the one below the arrow) Originally it was the same thickness as the other side.

Got the left valve cover back on and, using the studs and nuts is the ticket. MUCH easier that way.
If I wasn't so tired I'd start on the right side tonight but,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,not gonna happen. Think I'll lay on the sofa and watch Dr. Who on BBCA through my eyelids instead. It's a Dr. Who marathon all week until the new episode premiers on Christmas eve.

 

[BudW]

I was going to find some photos for her, about what you did - but got distracted while doing so.
Something about posting while at work . . .

 

[Aspen500]

We're always so busy I wouldn't have time to post at work other than lunch time from noon to 12:30. Not complaining, always busy means we must be doing something right

 

[Aspen500]

Managed to get the right side valve cover off this evening. Wasn't really that bad to do. The PLAN right now is to get the rockers adjusted and everything back together. As I said, that's the plan......................
Once that's done, time to pull the carb and change the power valve from a 4.5 to a 6.5 which, in theory, should be the right one. The 4.5 is still in there from when I had the rumpity-rump cam in the engine. Basically it take too much throttle opening before the PV opens. A/F goes to 16-17 on light throttle/heavy load such as going up a hill on the highway. Once the throttle is open far enough, the A/F comes back to 12-13 or so.
Pic of the left side with cover studs and nuts and the right side apart.

 

[Aspen500]

Got everything buttoned back up this afternoon. Couldn't resist, had to start it up briefly. Only ran it about 10-15 seconds but was nice to hear again! Closed garage isn't the place to run a car of course and with the cold and rain outside,,,,,,,,,,the door ain't going up either.
Pulled the carb to change the power valve and discovered it already has a 6.5 pv. Could have sworn there was a 4.5 in there. So,,,,,,,need to get a 7.5 to put in and give it a try when the time comes in a few months.

 

[Aspen500]

Got a 7.5 power valve in the carb and back on the engine. One day, many moons from now I'll know if a 7.5 was the right choice.

Haven't started any new projects yet, other than got the entire car done with Griot's Garage Liquid Gloss Poly Wax and all the non-anodized aluminum trim polished with (what else) Griot's Garage Metal Polish. All my trim around the windows, roof rail, belt line,,,,,,,,,,,,is bare polished aluminum. After a while it starts to get a slight white tinge that the polish takes off.

I'm thinking it's time to get back at the luggage compartment job.

 

[Aspen500]

Been slacking lately it appears. Did get the drivers window adjusted as good as it'll ever get. Shouldn't leak QUITE as much air (meaning wind noise). With the repop weather seals you can only do so much.

It's an anniversary today. It was 30 years ago on January 21st of 1987 that I bought the Aspen. Where does the time go???

 

[Aspen500]

Decided to part with some of that hard earned money and get the front seats reupholstered. There's an excellent place on the NW side of town. He gave me an estimate of $600 each for duplicates of the original made and installed. What the heck, can't take it with you, right?
The drivers seat's been bugging me ever since the car was "done". It's split a few more seams since then. The vinyl and thread are showing their 40 year age I guess.
Passenger seat is in very good shape but I know the new vinyl and old will never match and that would bug me more than split seams The rear seat has a couple seams that are just starting to split but it'll have to wait until next year due to $$$. The house still needs a new dormer roof, the chimney top needs fixed, I need a new front door............................You know how it goes?

 

[7T8 Custom]

I had the same problem with mine (splitting along the stitching) and had a local shop replace just the panels that were splitting in the front buckets and one panel in the rear bottom. The upholstery guy did such a nice job that you cant tell which panels were new and which had been replaced.

 

[Justwondering]

After the past 2 days and nights, I wonder if I go to your local shop and have them replace some of my panels if it would help things for me, never mind the car. Although I'd rather have a new knee and these titanium screws out of my arm instead of a panel replaced... lol
Weather went from 78 to 58 last night and the oldest dog is in failing health suddenly. Only 3 more doctor visits before I have jury duty.
I can tell you how that car aged 30 years and you still have car projects you want to get done.

 

[lowbudget]

I thought Legendary were making replacement covers for F bodies.

 

[Aspen500]

Legendary makes SOME covers but not the pattern I have. Plus, Legendary has "an attitude" about F-bodies that rubs me the wrong way.
At any rate, these will be exact duplicates AND be installed on the seats for $600 each. I could hog ring them on myself, have done it many times but what the heck, let someone else do it for once

 

[BudW]

. . . but what the heck, let someone else do it for once

Thumbs up!

 

[Aspen500]

I always prefer to do things myself but sometimes it's nice to have it done for you. I've put seat covers on at work many times(when I was a Ford tech and later an Audi/VW tech) and it's not one of my favorite things to do. Better than replacing a convertible top though....................which I had to do more than once at the Audi dealer (SOOOO glad I don't work there anymore!!!!!)
The upholstery dude is out of state for a few days so I'll run the seats up to the shop later next week. Said he'll need about 2 weeks to do them but is scheduling into March already so I'm going to figure late March/early April I'll have them back. Just as long as it's before the season starts (usually late May) I'll be happy. Kind of excited actually. Not about spending $1,200 of course but having one more "bug the heck out of me thing" taken care of. As I mentioned, that one bad seat makes the whole interior look bad.

Got my foam backed headliner material yesterday for the tail lamp finish panel, the carpet yardage for other parts of the trunk should be here today according to FedEx. All I need is to find some sheet plastic of the right type to do the modifications to the finish panel itself. Going to go over to Hobby Lobby and see if they have what I need.

 

[Justwondering]

Hobby Lobby Road Trip ... I'm jealous.

I'd ask you to go fondle yarn for me, but I don't want you to think I'm creepy.

 

[old yellow 78]

Legendary has "an attitude" about F-bodies that rubs me the wrong way.

I experienced that at Chryslers @ Carlisle a year or two. The jerk at the Legendary stand just "dismissed me" with a sniff and sarcastic smile. If I would have had a soda with me at the time, I might have accidentally spilled it all over his counter.