Aspen500
Well-Known Member
The right side spark plug access is,,,,,,,,,,,,,,tight. May depend on what headers you use also. The Schumacher ones don't really cause any plug issues.
The back two plugs a can get with a plug socket using a wrench on the sockets hex. The front 2 requires removing the control arm bolt access panel.
Of course the left side is much easier but cyl #3 need the wrench on the socket because the steering box and lines are right there.
As an after thought, I notched the A/C recirc duct and made a screw on panel for better access to the rear lower valve cover bolt. Before that I had to loosen the motor mount and jack the engine up a bit and then use a 1/4" extension and swivel socket. When I had the engine out to build it,,,,,,,,,,,,,again,,,,,,,,,,,,is when I did the modification. Knowing before hand would have great, could have welded a piece in and smoothed it all out. Never had the MP covers on in the cars previous life, only stock ones which didn't cause any problems.
Should have seen me trying to cut the section out on a finished car without scratching, chipping or otherwise efing up the paint. Just a little nervous, lol.
Obviously if you have A/C it makes right cover removal tough. The lines and expansion valve have to come off or the cover won't fit, which means always discharging the air if the cover has to come off for any reason. A minor inconvenience in the grand scheme of things though! I'm so used to taking half a car apart to get a valve or cam cover off,,,,,,,,,,,or just to change plugs at work it doesn't bother me very much to do the same on my own car. It's like "normal" lol.
The pic above is while putting the engine in after the 2nd build. You can see what i meant by the trans cooler lines and hoses.
The back two plugs a can get with a plug socket using a wrench on the sockets hex. The front 2 requires removing the control arm bolt access panel.
Of course the left side is much easier but cyl #3 need the wrench on the socket because the steering box and lines are right there.
As an after thought, I notched the A/C recirc duct and made a screw on panel for better access to the rear lower valve cover bolt. Before that I had to loosen the motor mount and jack the engine up a bit and then use a 1/4" extension and swivel socket. When I had the engine out to build it,,,,,,,,,,,,,again,,,,,,,,,,,,is when I did the modification. Knowing before hand would have great, could have welded a piece in and smoothed it all out. Never had the MP covers on in the cars previous life, only stock ones which didn't cause any problems.
Should have seen me trying to cut the section out on a finished car without scratching, chipping or otherwise efing up the paint. Just a little nervous, lol.
Obviously if you have A/C it makes right cover removal tough. The lines and expansion valve have to come off or the cover won't fit, which means always discharging the air if the cover has to come off for any reason. A minor inconvenience in the grand scheme of things though! I'm so used to taking half a car apart to get a valve or cam cover off,,,,,,,,,,,or just to change plugs at work it doesn't bother me very much to do the same on my own car. It's like "normal" lol.
The pic above is while putting the engine in after the 2nd build. You can see what i meant by the trans cooler lines and hoses.
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