slant6billy
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paint basics
- Thread starter AdamR
- Start date
My imp
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I started painting with a flea market "Sprays just as good as a Binks!" $19.99 imitation Binks. I could lay down some nice paint with a Ginsu gun. When I got more serious about painting, I upgraded my equipment. Practice, practice, practice. Shoot test patterns on scrap body parts to save $ on having to strip it & recoat.
slant6billy
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Yes sir. I have plenty of body panels to practice on. thanks
My imp
Well-Known Member
If you can swing it, pick up Nesco HVLP (High Volume, Low Pressure) gravity fed gun. They make a full & touch up size. I have both. A jobber trying to make a sale will tell you that it sprays just like a Sata. Bullshirt! Only a Sata sprays like a Sata. But, they do lay down a nice paint job. Acquire cheap paint for your learning curve. Try to find body panels with as many body lines as possible. Make your mistakes on panels that don't matter, with paint that doesn't break the bank. Perfect your gun technique with different paints, patterns, pressures, etc.. When you get to where spraying is second nature, THEN go buy a Sata. You'll go from being a very good painter, to a great painter. The two lines of guns feel similar in your hand, but a difference of night & day as far as quality goes. I always try to learn on the cheap as much as possible. The only guy I know that used Rustoleum painted his car flat black, so there was no gloss to check out. I don't know if your paint supplier carries bulk paint, but the places I used to deal with did. These were colors that were surplus, mixed wrong, customer didn't want it, or whatever. They sell for pennies on the dollar. You still have to buy your reducers, hardners, etc., but I used to pay $16-22 a gallon for paint! You have to choose from what's available, but it's good enough to learn on. Sometimes you find a color you really like that you can use on your car. Hope this helps, Larry
R/T Mirada
Well-Known Member
Check out Hot Rod's Video
http://www.hotrod.com/videos/01/rust-oleum-project-muscle-part-5/10891/
Steve Strope did a 69 Plymouth Satellite for Rustoleum using their paint
then sent it over to the HOT ROD Power Tour.
Read more: http://www.hotrod.com/videos/01/rust-oleum-project-muscle-part-5/10891/#ixzz2qpAylwJN
http://www.hotrod.com/videos/01/rust-oleum-project-muscle-part-5/10891/
Steve Strope did a 69 Plymouth Satellite for Rustoleum using their paint
then sent it over to the HOT ROD Power Tour.
Read more: http://www.hotrod.com/videos/01/rust-oleum-project-muscle-part-5/10891/#ixzz2qpAylwJN
My imp
Well-Known Member
That's cool! Everybody's getting into the game. Hopefully competition will drive prices down on supplies. Rust-oleum has always had a good rep, so I doubt if there selling junk now.
For the little that it costs, there is no reason not to use the proper protection. This includes "painter's gloves", which look like Mom's dishwashing gloves but do not allow solvents to pass through them. The paint rep at my old store used to watch guys wiping down panels with lacquer thinner or using it as a cleaner with no gloves, and say "10 to the blood, 20 to the brain". He was talking about the number of seconds it takes lacquer thinner to get to your central nervous system from your skin. I know too many old-time painters from back when paint was far less dangerous that are either dead or crazier than a sh_thouse rat.
My imp
Well-Known Member
Exactly, that goes for all the chemicals we use in mechanics. The nastiest of which have been banned, like carbon tetra chloride. That stuff would have you riding the short bus for the rest of your life. Asbestos, goes w/o saying. Bopal India wasn't a fertilizer factory, it was one of seven ethylene glycol (ring a bell?) factories in the world. Those people were all killed from anti-freeze exposure. Everytime you change a water pump, hose, stat, etc. with a cut on your hand, where do you think it goes? Particle masks when sanding, respirators for the tamer paints & primers, & full protective suit with fresh air respirator, gloves, etc. should be worn with any urethane paint. Central nervous system, kidneys, liver (that's for adult beverages & pain meds), eyes, & the list goes on & on. As a young wrench, I didn't wear much in the way of protection. As an old (forced retirement on disability) wrench, I wish I'd started before it was too late! When I paint, I use everything but the fresh air mask. Even the hobby system comes in at over $500! I use the best respirator I can find (3M), & change filters regularly. My Imp will be the first car I've painted since I retired. Hope I make it through. I plan to do it the "certain Ethnic" way by instead of bending to paint the bottom, I'll lift the car instead! I'll have moveable scaffolds around the perimeter to paint the top surfaces. Don't know when, just how!
Remember, anything that is not two part shrinks a heck of a lot more than a two part or catalyzed primer. That goes for putties too. Anything you apply that you don't have to catalyze will keep on shrinking long after you paint it. It's also less stable. As to the spray cans, they are usually lacquer, but not always. They always tend to have a lot of aggressive acids in them.They do this because they assume many people will not sand or prep anything then blame adhesion problems on the paint. If you've ever had spray paint lift, bleed or craze you know what I'm talking about. If you put it on in heavy coats the acids can be quite spectacular depending on what you are spraying it onto
kkritsilas
Well-Known Member
There were cars being factory painted with metallic colours in the 1960s and 1970s, and those cars were almost all single stage. The body shops that repaired those cars also sprayed metallic paint to match.
Metallic only means that there are metallic particles in the paint (very small, usually aluminum), has nothing to do with single stage or two stage. Our cars did have some metallic paints, and they were all single stage paints (acrylic enamel, from memory).
Metallic only means that there are metallic particles in the paint (very small, usually aluminum), has nothing to do with single stage or two stage. Our cars did have some metallic paints, and they were all single stage paints (acrylic enamel, from memory).
Sorry for commenting on and old thread but would using a self etching primer with polyester primer sprayed over be needed/helpful before spraying base/clear? I have rust coming up under the factory paint in a couple spots so, I’d be going down to bare metal in a number of spots. rust aside, my hood, roof and trunk were all poorly spray painted by the previous owner of my car. I’d rather get the car in solid primer than keep driving with the jacked up paint. I’ve been looking at SEM and Spay Max rattle can products as this would be my first real go at paint.
If you go all the way to bare metal, grind it with 80 grit then use Ospho according to the instructions. Two medium coats of Axalta 615S then your primer. If you're not going to finish it, but drive it while it's in primer, the primer will absorb moisture and other undesirable contaminants kicked up from the road so you'll be stripping it back down when you want to paint it.
XfbodyX
Well-Known Member
Not enough can be said for proper protection, dam I wish I would of thought things through starting 40 years ago. Ive a very F---ked nervous system, lungs, lymph nodes, cant walk some days,ect. Way back you could tell good quality paint by the way it smelled when you opened the can.
Even today just because the paints are good for the environment they still are not good for us.
One thing I do use is run an 02 line with 8 litres to my mask when im painting for fresh air and the unit is 100 ft away behind my shop.
But I do have a very nice stash of paints from the 70-s and 80-s, maybe 30 gallons and many quarts.
Ive not painted in a couple years, as if an ant would fart my lungs want to lock up.
2014 is the last time I painted, ive one last car to paint and im not really sure I can live through it. I took these in 2014 and I had not learned by then, sucks.
Hmmm, one course silver toner, one fine.
Even today just because the paints are good for the environment they still are not good for us.
One thing I do use is run an 02 line with 8 litres to my mask when im painting for fresh air and the unit is 100 ft away behind my shop.
But I do have a very nice stash of paints from the 70-s and 80-s, maybe 30 gallons and many quarts.
Ive not painted in a couple years, as if an ant would fart my lungs want to lock up.
2014 is the last time I painted, ive one last car to paint and im not really sure I can live through it. I took these in 2014 and I had not learned by then, sucks.
Hmmm, one course silver toner, one fine.
Thank you very much. Sounds like I’ll be planning on doing a couple panels from prep to finish a day and just try to knock it out over a week or so. I don’t like having to do things twice lol
80mirada
Well-Known Member
I wear a good 3M cartridge mask, nitrile gloves, and goggles, for shooting small areas. When the big areas get sprayed I wear a tyvek paint suit and head sock too. For the nasty modern stuff you have to minimize exposure even more than the old stuff.
When you are dealing with rust you have to kill it, or it just comes back. Etch prime, followed by a sealer atleast
When you are dealing with rust you have to kill it, or it just comes back. Etch prime, followed by a sealer atleast
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
DON'T FORGET TO PROTECT YOURSELF WHEN YOU'RE CLEANING UP YOUR GUN ALSO. LACQUER THINNER AND ACETONE WILL TAKE YOU OUT JUST AS FAST AS PAINT!
Take it from a guy that painted for forty five years that has perfect lung's but has nerve damage from the paint and thinners. Back in the early eighties we would strip cars at House of kolor then wipe them down with acetone, first on the list of industrial neuro toxins and a base chemical in paint.
I live with paine in my legs and feet every day, I can't walk in a body shop without setting them off so be careful with all products!
Take it from a guy that painted for forty five years that has perfect lung's but has nerve damage from the paint and thinners. Back in the early eighties we would strip cars at House of kolor then wipe them down with acetone, first on the list of industrial neuro toxins and a base chemical in paint.
I live with paine in my legs and feet every day, I can't walk in a body shop without setting them off so be careful with all products!
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
I will add that it takes 45 seconds for lacquer thinner to be absorbed into the body and move completely throughout it!
barbee6043
Well-Known Member
I will mention be careful using Ospho, there can be a reaction with certain epoxy primers. To be sure use the Ospho, after it has done it work, wipe it done with another wet coat and neutralize it with water.
Ospho works well for me, but it can cause a problem.
Polyester primers are sorta like spraying body filler. It flows well, I use it over epoxy on the bare metal that is pitted from rust. You do not want it to heavy (thick). Yes I treat that rusted metal I have sanded with Ospho.
I am no pro body man, but I have done a few dozen cars over the decades.
Ospho works well for me, but it can cause a problem.
Polyester primers are sorta like spraying body filler. It flows well, I use it over epoxy on the bare metal that is pitted from rust. You do not want it to heavy (thick). Yes I treat that rusted metal I have sanded with Ospho.
I am no pro body man, but I have done a few dozen cars over the decades.
Shorty Thompson
Well-Known Member
This has got to be thee most ironic moment that has ever presented itself , to me anyway. I'd been thinking about repainting my truck bed. Don't plan on spraying it . Read somewhere , where a guy used a roller. I'm not gonna be out much, trust m. The question I have is ,,,,,. What do you use to get down past the clear coat to get the paint scuffed ?
Scuff pad (the grey light/medium duty one from 3m is solid) and a soft sanding block for small areas, orbital/D.A. Buffer with scuff pad and soft backing pad for large areas/whole car...at least what I've done/seen done in the past.
