paint basics

Exterior Body and Trim

  1. slant6billy

    slant6billy Well-Known Member

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    140105-132805.jpg 140105-132823.jpg 140105-132841.jpg Ok, I really don't have the skill set you guys are talking at. The set of guns I had were all non grav feed type. This was the last one. It came with a slit nozzle and a round hole nozzle. The other two in the set had only one nozzle each. My friend just used one on the duster, but I'm not sure of the nozzle. The one I used was the primer gun and it's nozzle was a large hole that tappered out. I did see decent results with heavy metallic paint with both of the guns. So would grav guns be better for clear? And these type be better for heavies (pearl/ metallics)? Realistically I know nothing comes easy and I don't expect to have a showcar perfect job right out of the box.

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  2. My imp

    My imp Well-Known Member

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    I started painting with a flea market "Sprays just as good as a Binks!" $19.99 imitation Binks. I could lay down some nice paint with a Ginsu gun. When I got more serious about painting, I upgraded my equipment. Practice, practice, practice. Shoot test patterns on scrap body parts to save $ on having to strip it & recoat.
     
  3. slant6billy

    slant6billy Well-Known Member

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    Yes sir. I have plenty of body panels to practice on. thanks
     
  4. My imp

    My imp Well-Known Member

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    If you can swing it, pick up Nesco HVLP (High Volume, Low Pressure) gravity fed gun. They make a full & touch up size. I have both. A jobber trying to make a sale will tell you that it sprays just like a Sata. Bullshirt! Only a Sata sprays like a Sata. But, they do lay down a nice paint job. Acquire cheap paint for your learning curve. Try to find body panels with as many body lines as possible. Make your mistakes on panels that don't matter, with paint that doesn't break the bank. Perfect your gun technique with different paints, patterns, pressures, etc.. When you get to where spraying is second nature, THEN go buy a Sata. You'll go from being a very good painter, to a great painter. The two lines of guns feel similar in your hand, but a difference of night & day as far as quality goes. I always try to learn on the cheap as much as possible. The only guy I know that used Rustoleum painted his car flat black, so there was no gloss to check out. I don't know if your paint supplier carries bulk paint, but the places I used to deal with did. These were colors that were surplus, mixed wrong, customer didn't want it, or whatever. They sell for pennies on the dollar. You still have to buy your reducers, hardners, etc., but I used to pay $16-22 a gallon for paint! You have to choose from what's available, but it's good enough to learn on. Sometimes you find a color you really like that you can use on your car. Hope this helps, Larry
     
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  5. R/T Mirada

    R/T Mirada Well-Known Member

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  6. My imp

    My imp Well-Known Member

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    That's cool! Everybody's getting into the game. Hopefully competition will drive prices down on supplies. Rust-oleum has always had a good rep, so I doubt if there selling junk now.
     
  7. NoCar340

    NoCar340 Well-Known Member

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    For the little that it costs, there is no reason not to use the proper protection. This includes "painter's gloves", which look like Mom's dishwashing gloves but do not allow solvents to pass through them. The paint rep at my old store used to watch guys wiping down panels with lacquer thinner or using it as a cleaner with no gloves, and say "10 to the blood, 20 to the brain". He was talking about the number of seconds it takes lacquer thinner to get to your central nervous system from your skin. I know too many old-time painters from back when paint was far less dangerous that are either dead or crazier than a sh_thouse rat.
     
  8. My imp

    My imp Well-Known Member

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    Exactly, that goes for all the chemicals we use in mechanics. The nastiest of which have been banned, like carbon tetra chloride. That stuff would have you riding the short bus for the rest of your life. Asbestos, goes w/o saying. Bopal India wasn't a fertilizer factory, it was one of seven ethylene glycol (ring a bell?) factories in the world. Those people were all killed from anti-freeze exposure. Everytime you change a water pump, hose, stat, etc. with a cut on your hand, where do you think it goes? Particle masks when sanding, respirators for the tamer paints & primers, & full protective suit with fresh air respirator, gloves, etc. should be worn with any urethane paint. Central nervous system, kidneys, liver (that's for adult beverages & pain meds), eyes, & the list goes on & on. As a young wrench, I didn't wear much in the way of protection. As an old (forced retirement on disability) wrench, I wish I'd started before it was too late! When I paint, I use everything but the fresh air mask. Even the hobby system comes in at over $500! I use the best respirator I can find (3M), & change filters regularly. My Imp will be the first car I've painted since I retired. Hope I make it through. I plan to do it the "certain Ethnic" way by instead of bending to paint the bottom, I'll lift the car instead! I'll have moveable scaffolds around the perimeter to paint the top surfaces. Don't know when, just how!
     
  9. Ele115

    Ele115 Active Member

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    Remember, anything that is not two part shrinks a heck of a lot more than a two part or catalyzed primer. That goes for putties too. Anything you apply that you don't have to catalyze will keep on shrinking long after you paint it. It's also less stable. As to the spray cans, they are usually lacquer, but not always. They always tend to have a lot of aggressive acids in them.They do this because they assume many people will not sand or prep anything then blame adhesion problems on the paint. If you've ever had spray paint lift, bleed or craze you know what I'm talking about. If you put it on in heavy coats the acids can be quite spectacular depending on what you are spraying it onto
     
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  10. kkritsilas

    kkritsilas Well-Known Member

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    There were cars being factory painted with metallic colours in the 1960s and 1970s, and those cars were almost all single stage. The body shops that repaired those cars also sprayed metallic paint to match.

    Metallic only means that there are metallic particles in the paint (very small, usually aluminum), has nothing to do with single stage or two stage. Our cars did have some metallic paints, and they were all single stage paints (acrylic enamel, from memory).