Second Chance at a MOPAR the "BlackBird" build

greymouser7

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way Down the road Rich, I wanna see you do both inductions (blower & turbo) with a 1000cfm thermoquad on a slant or one of those 265 aussie chrysler six cylinder motors.
 

Blackbirdsrt78

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Well looks like the front end alignment is the works then. I'm ordering the last of the suspension parts I need and then its off to the shop.
 

MiradaMegacab

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THat is the best looking four barrel intake manifold for a slant that I have ever seen-never seen before! wow
Its not really a 4 barrel manifold. It has a blank pad (no bolt pattern) , a nice plenum and equal length runners for use in forced induction applications (blow thru turbo, blow thru centrifugal, and Roots blown). There is a backfire valve in the pick, only needed with a Gilmer drive.
I would recommend a Roots style or screw style supercharger for instant boost for BlackBirds application. Max power, instantly........
WTF, whack it with a 100 shot of N20 too......

If off the line traction is a problem. then run a turbo or centrifugal supercharger. The delay in boost will help with off the line traction.
A turbo with W/M (Water/Meth) injection is nice on the street.
But a turbo or ProCharger with a shot of N20 would make for an insane upgrade used for street/strip applications.

Torque converter choice must be considered too.
In a Roots blown application, keep a tight low stall converter, use the low end torque to your advantage.
in a centrifugal/turbo application use a loose converter that will flash to whatever RPM that will bring boost in sooner.

For an all out, max performance, run the Roots blower with N20........ The nitrous can act as an intercooler at WOT.

If anyone is crazy enough to use boost and N20, be sure to O-Ring the head, cut receiver grooves in the block, use an SCE copper head gasket and forged pistons from 2618 alloy with wide ring gaps........
 

greymouser7

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Brother, Ryan Johnson/Shady Dell Machine shop has a blurb on his web site that O-ring'ing the head is the old tech, he recommends the MLS (multi layered steel) gaskets and the correct (?)planed surface for both the head and block for the mls gaskets.
 

Blackbirdsrt78

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steel gaskets are recommended for milled head. The felpro gaskets that I have used in the past have been very good. I will be having the head surfaced if needed. For now I am focusing on the front end alignment and replacing the bushings and balljoints. I have everything accept the balljoints i have to wait till monday to deposit some cash into the bank and they are getting ordered. then once its all on the car its off to the laser alignment rack and hopefully only will have to shell out 80 bucks
 

Blackbirdsrt78

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If the head thats ont he car right now is a milled head then i am going to need a new head for supercharging because I am keeping the low initial compression ratio. I really dont want to "blow" the motor being silly and I also want to avoid clearance problems with a higher lift cam
 

Blackbirdsrt78

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Damn, that would be awesome...I've already committed to a front end rebuild...As much as I love thinking about superchargers and turbo's and 4bbl intakes I have to get the car safe to drive daily and an alignment is in my future....The car is still running strong and lookin sharp I am going to have the window louvers on soon. just waiting for a warm day
 

Blackbirdsrt78

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Are you going urethane, or standard bushings?

Urethane, I just talked to the guy who is going to let me use his garage to do the work and the friend I have that works at the tool and die company. So as soon as I get the parts the font end rebuild is happening and as soon as I get an Eaton M-90 I will be able to make the adapters for that project. I love it when a plan gets into motion.
 

Blackbirdsrt78

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P1010881.jpg

:icon_sunny:

P1010881.jpg
 

greymouser7

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If the head that's on the car right now is a milled head then i am going to need a new head for supercharging because I am keeping the low initial compression ratio. I really don't want to "blow" the motor being silly and I also want to avoid clearance problems with a higher lift cam

1. SHouldn't you be able to pull the spark plug out, turn over a compression test and get an idea of how much boost you can run from what you have?

2. Do you think the cam is stock like the barracuda was or slightly larger?

3. If it is close, I bet you hundred to one odds that you are good to go with aforementioned pressure increase {what id he say 8 pounds?}

4. Can't you measure the lift of the lifters with the valve cover off? Or

Do a head gasket replacement (he said SCE ), pull the head and clay the top of the piston to check clearance? I know people get real concerned when they go past .035 for quench on naturally aspirated engine builds...
 
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