XfbodyX
Well-Known Member
Non flippin AC? Thats ok. A stripper.
sooo,i bought this..kicks tire,and no,it doesnt have a hemi
- Thread starter beatersRus
- Start date
beatersRus
Well-Known Member
heck yeah no power Anything cept brakes and steering.
thats less weight and easy repairs if anything breaks.
car really has some good things going for it.
all cept that am radio lol,i could use a different radio setup that fits that space.
would prefer a newer factory one but still older setup.
like the ones with the tape deck And the cd and the little joystick for the speakers.
( hint hint to anyone )
Trey
Well-Known Member
I'm not a lot of help on the M body cars but I will say that is a great looking car. I've never seen one like it and I'm glad you're bringing her back. There are lots of guys on here that can help with your restoration and I look forward to seeing your progress. Good luck with it.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
Oldiron likes pro 15, just goes to show you can't believe everything you read on the internet.
I see 8 year old cars people have moved here with that have a lot more rust than that one. The ones from New England seem to be rust buckets very soon after leaving the showroom. Ontario too. Ours tend to rust around the windshields first near the top from wet debris in the pinch weld
We'll need a photo of the front header panel to confirm, but there's a good chance this car is an LS. LeBaron's answer to a Mirada CMX. All the sport looking bits, but as you've found, it could be had with any engine offered. Firm Feel is the place to go to improve the car's handling. Poly bushings on the sway bar, another, but smaller bar on the back and some good KYB shocks will all work well. As for brakes, find yourself a '79 Cordoba with the 11.875" rotors, grab the caliper mount, swap it on to this car and with new rotors you'll have bigger front brakes. If you really want to up the brakes look for an `up to' 97 B100 van with an 8¼" rear axle, and grab the backing plates and some of the internal hardware bits and you can have 11" drums on the rear. Just watch that the right rear doesn't lock up early. You've already got 15" wheels, so just one size up on the first number, one size down on the second number and you've got a nice improvement in the footprints.
beatersRus
Well-Known Member
phase 2
style of wheels and hood scoop determined.
painter located,waiting for time to get estimate.
blaster located,waiting for appt.
motor trans located,318 magnum with a518 trans.
need cam and any recommendations you have for this build.
convertor is 2800 stall.
rearend 8.8 with 3:73 gears.
only thing lacking now is leaf springs,a fuel setup and a wiring harness for the front of the car.
also,i Hate the way these bumpers stick out in the back a country mile off the body....
thats going to Need to be fixed.
style of wheels and hood scoop determined.
painter located,waiting for time to get estimate.
blaster located,waiting for appt.
motor trans located,318 magnum with a518 trans.
need cam and any recommendations you have for this build.
convertor is 2800 stall.
rearend 8.8 with 3:73 gears.
only thing lacking now is leaf springs,a fuel setup and a wiring harness for the front of the car.
also,i Hate the way these bumpers stick out in the back a country mile off the body....
thats going to Need to be fixed.
old yellow 78
Well-Known Member
Oh yeah! That is starting to look great. Ruby red is a good choice for color. Was it originally red? I wondered because of the color of the engine compartment. Those wheels are great and that roof line is fantastic! This will be an interesting project to follow!
beatersRus
Well-Known Member
well,i didnt want to give away the whole game,but,
i need to build a 318 magnum that can take a turbo without blowing up,
been researching the turbo creations on youtube.
also i need for this 518 trans to go into the car.
Heh, outside of my wheelhouse. Forced induction has different requirements vs NA motors. If there isn't anyone here familiar boosted motors you may want to head over to Moparts.
Car sounds it's going to be an absolute riot.
Forged pistons, quality low end hardware, colder plugs, wider gapped rings, and low compression. MPFI, timing control with a knock sensor, and good gas will let you cheat a little on the compression part. Use at least the EngineQuest Magnum reproduction heads because they fixed the factory cracking problem. Someone on ebay sells cheap front-exit turbo manifolds for the Magnum pattern.
Note: Stay conservative with the cam so you spool earlier. A lack in top end is an easy problem to fix when you have boost.
Note: Stay conservative with the cam so you spool earlier. A lack in top end is an easy problem to fix when you have boost.
Is there such a thing as an aftermarket ECU that includes provisions for a knock sensor? I thought those sensors had be calibrated to the motors during the design process.
KS-3 Knock Detection and Engine Tuning Systems
The sensors themselves are just a piezoelectric crystal and a resistor. If you bolt a standard wide range Bosch sensor to your intake and hook it to a pair of low impedance headphones it works like a stethoscope. We did this on the Fury's 392 Poly Stroker as part of our on-road tuning along with tailpipe A/F. The calibration part comes in because you need the ECU to do what your brain does automatically and single out the right noise when it's communicated as a voltage signal. It's rare in aftermarket ECUs but the MPFI Magnum engines should already have a factory sensor so it shouldn't be hard to piggyback.
The knock frequency itself is relative to piston diameter (like ringing a bell). A standard bore 318 should be around 5.8 kHz.
Around 2:40 is what you hear if you're listening to a knock sensor with headphones unfiltered. Knock is the crackling noise.
The sensors themselves are just a piezoelectric crystal and a resistor. If you bolt a standard wide range Bosch sensor to your intake and hook it to a pair of low impedance headphones it works like a stethoscope. We did this on the Fury's 392 Poly Stroker as part of our on-road tuning along with tailpipe A/F. The calibration part comes in because you need the ECU to do what your brain does automatically and single out the right noise when it's communicated as a voltage signal. It's rare in aftermarket ECUs but the MPFI Magnum engines should already have a factory sensor so it shouldn't be hard to piggyback.
The knock frequency itself is relative to piston diameter (like ringing a bell). A standard bore 318 should be around 5.8 kHz.
Around 2:40 is what you hear if you're listening to a knock sensor with headphones unfiltered. Knock is the crackling noise.
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beatersRus
Well-Known Member
well i hadda roll it back into the lineup today.
looks like ill need a parts car to finish it,
as the entire wiring harness in front is gone and bumper brackets as well.
gonna have to start throwing money at it soon.
did have a little fun with a light bar from my old fury cop car.
looks like ill need a parts car to finish it,
as the entire wiring harness in front is gone and bumper brackets as well.
gonna have to start throwing money at it soon.
did have a little fun with a light bar from my old fury cop car.
beatersRus
Well-Known Member
side shot
beatersRus
Well-Known Member
okay after melting my brain on the turbo do-s and donts ive decided to postpone that joy.
wayyyy too much chancey stuff and engine melting for anything less than a full kit install.
so im going to proceed with the 318 magnum with the 500/518 overdrive trans for now.
get the car up and going again,and ready it for paint and por-15.
can someone give me tips and advice on the install of this transmission?
i see theres a huge pinch weld going across the roof of my tunnel > should i cut that off?
also,im thinking id like to be around 2800 stall,with a good cam in the 318.
parts i know ill need
car pan and pickup for the 318 magnum motor.
cam selection for the 318
motor was freshened recently so ?
new 4 bbl intake for magnum motor...or..how to use an la manifold?
wayyyy too much chancey stuff and engine melting for anything less than a full kit install.
so im going to proceed with the 318 magnum with the 500/518 overdrive trans for now.
get the car up and going again,and ready it for paint and por-15.
can someone give me tips and advice on the install of this transmission?
i see theres a huge pinch weld going across the roof of my tunnel > should i cut that off?
also,im thinking id like to be around 2800 stall,with a good cam in the 318.
parts i know ill need
car pan and pickup for the 318 magnum motor.
cam selection for the 318
motor was freshened recently so ?
new 4 bbl intake for magnum motor...or..how to use an la manifold?
