Subframe connectors

Volare4life

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I know its been awhile any updates on the build ? I feel your pain,just got back from a 9+ month deployment in april, I live in jacksonville, fl and have a set of auto rust subframe connectors if you still looking, if you come get them hows $50 sound ? not bad compared to their $125 price tag, also have front safe-t-caps if needed

-Mike
 

LSM360

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Mike-Have you fitted those up under the car yet to see if they need any modifications prior to welding up? Thanks.
 

Volare4life

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no but I can pull them out and stick them up underneath the car for you, give me a bit
 

Volare4life

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they need a good tappy-tap in the rear, but you dont have to cut the floorboards for them to fit, and they are .120 thick 2x2

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Jack Meoff

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I might even throw some on my Caravelle.
It's only a slanty but I do like to drive that car like I stole it.
I'm sure it would help the ride.....especially in the turns.
 

Magnum Aspen

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US car tool advertises torque boxes and subframe connectors for F bodies.
I called and asked questions and the person I talked to was helpful.
 

BudW

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September 2015, I purchased a sub-frame connector set (p/n ART-20) and 4-piece torque box plate set (p/n ART-08889) from Auto-Rust. The six pieces cost me $488.90 (after freight). To be honest, I hadn’t gotten under the car yet (in last 4 years) to see how the pieces fit. I did have to wait about 3-weeks for pieces to be made. The cardboard box the two sub-frame connectors had split open (shipper fault, not the boxer), but other than a minor scratch – no harm to parts.

FYI, the p/n ART-20 is same part number for 2 and for 4-door cars, but length is different. You need to specify which one you need. The torque boxes should fit either 2 or more-door cars.

All 6 items appear to be well made – but the true test is to get ‘em installed and see how they fit. It might take me another few years to get r done, for I also have firewall welding (adding A/C), transmission tunnel modifications, and other things to get done at same time.

If they fit (which I suspect they will), I most likely will be buying another set of subframe connectors from them.
The torque box plates appear to be overpriced (IMO) for what you get. I might be fabricating roughly/sorta similar for the other car to stiffen its frame up. No, I won’t be coping them or even using them as a template. I was thinking about on the other car, to use a bit thicker (maybe) steel, but just (extensively) boxing it all up after I get the subframe connectors installed.
BudW
 

Aspen500

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I've seen the US Car Tool ads in Mopar Collectors Guide but never knew they had stuff for f-body. The ads only mention A, B and E.

I got front subframe rail repair caps for my car from Auto Rust quite a few years ago and was NOT impressed. After a few hours of rewelding, grinding, cutting the holes to match the original rails, etc. they worked but in hindsight, could have built my own from scratch faster and a whole lot better. I bought them because I figured it would help move things along, they didn't. Maybe their torque boxes and connectors are better(?)
 

BudW

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US Car Tools has two items for F-bodies. I would presume the frame rail connectors are for 2-door cars, only – but I would “think” they will also fit J’s and 2-door M’s as well.

At first glance, I thought maybe the tooling got sold to US Car Tools, but my components from Auto Rust look nothing like either.
76-80 F-Body Volare Frame Connectors
Torque Boxes Set of four (4) for 1976 - 1980 Mopar F Body Volare

The torque boxes should work for all FMJ vehicles.

The US Car Tool frame rail connectors will require a lot more welding than Auto Rust units would – but all in all, that might not be a bad thing (maybe?).

Frame connectors
post # 20 shows what Auto Rust torque boxes and subframe connectors look like (looks exactly like my sets).

If I was going to perform that much welding, I might be tempted to do what another member here has done and cut the floorboard and weld in a (un-trimmed) 2x3” rectangular or 3x3” square tubing, then weld the floor pan to the tubing. It does affect the floor a bit (carpet and such, wise) – but looks stronger and possibly the same amount of welding. I tried to find the picture of the member here who has done that – but couldn’t find it.

All I gotta do now, is learn how to weld . . .

Actually, US Car Tools has a lot of things i want . . .
BudW
 

Oldiron440

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2" square tube works just fine, I was getting ripples in my rockers and the seam at the top of the quarters then added the frame connectors. The car responded by pulling both fronts 12" off the ground. At the time it was capable of 11.80s but I was running 12.0 because of no rollbar. The added benefit of the frame connectors is that I could jack the side of the car with the connectors. I added a cage when I built the 500" and got into the tens.
I've seen this discussion before and the general consensus was there's more strength in the tube than half a C chanel.
 

Aspen500

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Another benefit to connectors, even on a stock S6 car is, the car just feels more solid when driving it. Fewer squeaks and rattles too.
 

Duke5A

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If you plan on welding them in yourself then buying a set already fabricated is just pissing money away. All it is is box tube and angle iron. They're simple to fabricate.

It's often said that going through the floor is the better way to install, and while I agree, it's overkill for a street car. Simply attaching the front and rear rails together even without slicing the floor will transform the car.
 
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