360 Magnum

Bruceynz

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Hi Bud,

I used a gasket that looked like a ufo with 3 legs connecting to a smaller center gasket, does the cork one go under the head of the bolt, if so I never used, is this my leak source?

Have i got the arrows pointing to the correct places?

upload_2017-11-24_22-5-57.png


My Friend
FMJ’s without the 3-cat system – all came without the 90' adapter.
All FMJ’s with the 3-cat system did use that adapter system.
Headers are the wild-card – so can’t comment there.

Looking at these two photos, it “appears” the oil filter will be hard to get on/off if you do not use a 90’ adapter.
View attachment 27513
View attachment 27514

This photo is not applicable, per se, but shows the adapter difference, on engine. The picture on right has been flipped – so you are looking at the Right side of engine.
View attachment 27515


View attachment 27516
The external filters use 3 gaskets – or two, depending on design. Some gaskets, the inner and larger and smaller inner gasket is made into one gasket. Most that I see now days are three gaskets.
The thicker one goes by bolt head.
The smaller/thinner one goes where bolt goes to block.
If you do not use the smaller/thinner one – you will not notice any difference – but part of the engine oil will not be filtered.
If you use the thicker gasket at block, then the larger diameter gasket will not be able to hold a good seal.

The non-90' adapter does not use the inner gasket.
View attachment 27517
BudW
 

Bruceynz

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ok guys looks like I had it wrong here is how it goes together, I pulled mine off this morning the one at the bolt head is welded on and I have it soaking in gas to get off, the cork one (which wasn't cork on my car) broke in half when I took it off, I am kicking myself for not researching this more!

OilAdapterGaskets.jpg
 

Bruceynz

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Hi Guys,

Had my 360 out for a drive, very disappointed in the performance, I must expect to much from it, my 2.0 ecoboost ford seems to feel much more powerful!

Thanks
Bruce
 

FredMcJoe

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Time for a big block.

Aside from the lack of clouds of burnt rubber, how was it? Is the idle smooth? Any stumbles or flat spots? Is your vacuum advance kicking in too soon/late? Have you advanced the timing til u get pinging?
 

Bruceynz

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I am still working on it, I will dial it in better, I have an o2 sensor to fit and will check timing again, didn't check vac
 
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Bruceynz

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Ok its slow off line, better than the old 360 but not a lot, doesn't wind up that well, it pulls ok but its just got no guts to it, don't even push you in the seat on take off, can't spin the wheels same as other 360! I dunno whats wrong with it, I thought it would of went better than it did, my 2.0L falcon ecoboost which is a full size RWD (3800lbs) sedan is faster! I really have no idea how to make this car go any good, I am beginning to think I expect to much from these old engines! The only 2 things that are the same are the carb and dizzy maybe I need bigger carb and maybe the dizzy is rubbish, thats all that can be, I tell you what I had a 1979 318 New Yorker I put some 302 closed chamber heads on, eddy performer intake, 600 holley, eddy cam (the small one) and I was far more impressed how that went!
 

FredMcJoe

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the vacuum advance that I thought was fine in my Volare turned out to have a ruptured diaphram. The air sucked right through it when I tested it.
 

Bruceynz

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I can't get the threads on the holley fuel pump to seal, its started leaking fuel, I used an ARP thread sealer for gasoline and it didn't work, any suggestions on what to use?
 

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Did you install the timing chain?
If so, might there be a possibility the camshaft timing might be off a tooth?
Note: not saying it is, I was just thinking of possibilities.


Some mechanical fuel pumps were designed to be rebuilt. If it looks somewhat like this:
SB Fuel Pump rebuildable.jpg

Then it can be rebuilt.

If it looks more like this – then the only thing you can do is toss it, when it leaks:
SB Fuel Pump stock.jpg

BudW
 

Bruceynz

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Bud - I went back through my posts and found what I was looking for, my dizzy has 20 degrees of mech advance in it, in my last engine I had it at 16 initial to get 36 total, my mechanic friend said he set it up for 10 degrees initial, that makes it 30 degrees total, I think if i can get it up to 36 it will be much better, your thoughts and is 16 to high for initial? (I don't remember having any problems starting with 16 on last engine)

This is the dizzy I have

Electronic Distributor Conversion Kit; Fits Chrysler 273-318-340-360 Engines | #66991 | Proform Parts


Here is my timing

timing.jpg


upload_2017-11-28_8-18-30.png
 

BudW

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Timing marks look great. Glad to see the chain tensioner in there!

Did you use a degree wheel to make sure camshaft timing (not necessarily the same as timing chain timing) is correct? I doubt it would be that far off – but might be.


The only other thing I can think of is the oil pump shaft being out of time with camshaft – but that only affects the distributor position in block and not timing.

I have seen some bad distrubuters right out of the box.
I have also seen carburetor vacuum ports not in same position on different carburetors - which has had me chasing ghosts more than a couple of times.
BudW
 
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