360 Magnum

89.Fifth

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You know what its a big job changing engines and trans over by yourself, can anyone recommend a good way to bed in the rings, I see on youtube just take to 2000, in each gear then back down through the gears then repeat to at 2500, 3000, 3500, 4000, 4500, 5000, 5500 job done. Is this a good method to bed them in?

Read this whole thread.

Can you stop and start multiple times during motor break-in? - Speed Talk

Also a great discussion on oils.
new engine break in procedure - Speed Talk


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Bruceynz

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I have a choice of spark plugs, any ideas which one would suit my setup better?

IMG_20171115_082008[1].jpg
 

BudW

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Looking great!
its a big job changing engines and trans over by yourself,
No joke! Having help makes the job 300% easier/faster, for some odd reason.

can anyone recommend a good way to bed in the rings
I prefer the term "to seat the rings" but we are talking about the same thing.

I’ve always been told to “drive it as if you stole it” (which isn’t too far off on how I drive, to begin with) - in regards to seating the rings.

That said, I recommend contacting the people who made the piston rings and see what they say (it should be in the instructions (if you kept them) or on their web site).
BudW
 

Bruceynz

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Ok some news! Fired her up after work tonight for the first time, she cranked into life pretty easy! Got timing to set, an oil leak at the 90 degree adapter and there is a fuel leak around the pump so need to sort that! So she goes, Yipeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
 

Bruceynz

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Those 90 degree adapters can you use any sealant on them? wonder if I can getaway with out using it and put filter on block
 
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BudW

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I don’t recall ever using silicon sealant on a small block adaptor gasket(s) before, on either the straight-on adaptor or 90’ angle (only dry gaskets).

The gaskets do have full engine oil pressure behind them – so even a minor leak will spray oil everywhere.

I would suspect a very small piece of leftover paper gasket got left behind, before new gasket got installed (has happened to me before).
Also, there is also a gasket for the bolt for the 90’ adaptor.

wonder if I can getaway with out using it and put filter on block
I do hope you are referring to removing the 90’ adaptor and replacing with the straight-on adaptor – and not referring to installing either adaptor without any gasket.
BudW
 

BudW

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do you know if a short filter will fit directly on the engine with no adapter in a J body 360v8 without hitting anything?
FMJ’s without the 3-cat system – all came without the 90' adapter.
All FMJ’s with the 3-cat system did use that adapter system.
Headers are the wild-card – so can’t comment there.

Looking at these two photos, it “appears” the oil filter will be hard to get on/off if you do not use a 90’ adapter.
IMG_20170920_181246 a.jpg

read by.jpg


This photo is not applicable, per se, but shows the adapter difference, on engine. The picture on right has been flipped – so you are looking at the Right side of engine.
Schumacher Tri-Y Headers.jpg



mp 5249624ab.jpg

The external filters use 3 gaskets – or two, depending on design. Some gaskets, the inner and larger and smaller inner gasket is made into one gasket. Most that I see now days are three gaskets.
The thinner one goes by bolt head.
The thicker one goes where bolt goes to block.
If you do not use the thicker one (ie: forgot) – you will not notice any difference – but part of the engine oil will not be filtered.

The non-90' adapter does not use the inner gasket.
Small Block Oil Filter Adaptor.jpg

BudW
 

Bruceynz

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Thanks Bud after aprox 20 miles when I have rings bedded in I will drop the oil and put some nice oil in and work out what to do with filter.
 

Oldiron440

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I've never cared for the 90 adapter is just one more place to leak if you don't need a room don't use it. Put 500 miles on the oil then drop.
 

Bruceynz

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yep I have one of those timing lights you can dial up 36 and set it there, so I should be all good to go. I wanted to get my fuel leak sorted, that was my major concern, will have to sort oil leak as its drips on the headers which not really optimal!
 

FredMcJoe

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I timed my 225 /6 to 10 deg @ 700 rpm, I have an FBO centrifugal advance limiter plate set at 18 deg max, and an 8.5 vacuum advance, for a total of 36.5. It ran nice and smooth and I dialed in my vac advance 'all-in @ xRPM" with the 3/32" Allen wrench to that point where you can feel the vacuum canister pull with slight right-foot input.

This morning I gave it a little more initial advance and yeah! That's what it likes! The limiter plate must be doing its job because it hasn't pinged yet, putting load on at speed. I think the added advance minimized a flat spot experienced at speed after the gas was released then reapplied.

I'll measure it tomorrow, I bet I'm at 14deg initial now, that would make it 14+18+8.5 = 40.5 total if so.
 

jasperjacko

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I use a straight filter with dougs headers. It's close but fits. My timing in 15 initial, 34, 8 vac. 42 total
 
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