1. Bruceynz

    Bruceynz Well-Known Member

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    Passenger side header on, that was nice and quick compared to driver side. So my weekend is over 10pm Sunday night and I am over working on old cars until next weekend! Also worked on my gardens and lawns, took a trailer loads of weeds and lawn clippings away!

    sec.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2017
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  2. Bruceynz

    Bruceynz Well-Known Member

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    A little more progress, whats the best way to fill up the trans, or just a funnel and away you go?

    carb.jpg
     
  3. Mr Volare Imperial

    Mr Volare Imperial Well-Known Member

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    Stop adding transmission fluid when you have some registering on the stick, then crank the engine to pump the fluid into the torque converter, then add oil to full mark on stick. Check again after the transmission has come up to operating temperature.
     
  4. Bruceynz

    Bruceynz Well-Known Member

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  5. BudW

    BudW Well-Known Member

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    A tall skinny funnel is about the only way to fill it, like this one.
    funnel A.JPG

    I use another one to fill with engine oil, like this one.
    funnel B.JPG

    The official instructions to drain and refill an automatic transmission. In this case, pay no attention to the drain aspect. The Fill part does apply.
    77 FSM 21-62a.JPG

    77 FSM 21-62b.JPG
    From my '77 FSM.

    The official instructions to drain and refill an automatic transmission. In this case, pay no attention to the drain aspect. The Fill part does apply.

    Note: my ’86 FSM says exactly the same - except to use “MOPAR ATF+ Type 7176” – instead of “DEXRON”.

    Note: in 2007, Chrysler changed that, to say to only to use “ATF+4 (Type 9602) – in all Vehicles that came with DEXRON, ATF+, ATF+2 or ATF+3.
    That is unless your specific transmission builder/supplier says otherwise.
    BudW

    Edit: Note, the "drain torque converter" procedure only applies to vehicles made early ’78’s and older cars. The late ’78 cars have lockup torque converters – which you cannot drain.
    Even that, I have seen some mid to late ‘70’s pre-lockup converters that do not have a drain plug on them.
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2017
  6. Bruceynz

    Bruceynz Well-Known Member

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    How may quarts will a 904 hold with a deep dish pan?
     
  7. BudW

    BudW Well-Known Member

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    Using a normal pan:
    Lockup 17.1 pints (8.1L)
    Non Lockup 17.6 pints (8.3L)

    I can’t comment about the deep pan fluid usage – for that varies on pan manufacture.

    Also, an add-on transmission cooler will require more fluid (if used, that is).
    BudW

    Edit: Did your transmission come with some paperwork on how much fluid to use (and which fluid to use)?
     
  8. Bruceynz

    Bruceynz Well-Known Member

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  9. BudW

    BudW Well-Known Member

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    That is one of the “forever” pan gaskets. So as long as you don’t tear it, that pan gasket can be reused again and again.

    Deep pans are always the way to go – depending on your road conditions. Deep pans are also easy to knock a hole into (again – depending on your roads).

    Did your pan come with a filter extension, like this one? There are a few different designs of filter extensions – and this one is the most common one.
    904 Deep Pan.jpg

    Filter Extension.jpg

    Overdrive and computer controlled valve body’s require taller pans – to get everything crammed into/inside of the pan.

    Non- overdrive and/or non-computer controlled transmissions do need a filter extension and longer filter screws.
    The filter extension is not a requirement – but is a lot better on the transmission to suck from the bottom of pan.

    If you haven’t put fluid into the transmission yet, then I might highly encourage you to get one and install it.

    I have no way to know how much more fluid that pan will hold over your old pan – without adding and measuring fluid from bolt pans, while pan is on bench.
    BudW
     
  10. Bruceynz

    Bruceynz Well-Known Member

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    No It didn't is it a problem if its not used?
     
  11. BudW

    BudW Well-Known Member

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    Yes, it can be used without the adaptor.

    One problem automatic transmissions have - is the fluid. When fluid hits moving parts, it will aerate (ie: turn into pink foam). Foam – is part fluid and part air (percentage will vary), and will compress when under pressure – actually the air portion compresses, the fluid cannot.
    Automatic transmissions are hydraulic in nature – with its own Hydraulic computer (valve body). Hydraulics, in general, do not like air (aerated fluid) because air has different properties than fluid has.
    Also air does not lubricate, like fluid can.

    Most automatic transmissions, the moving parts are normally located above the fluid level – so aeration shouldn’t occur – but it can at times (driving on an steep angle, bouncy roads, etc.) and it takes a while for the foam to dissipate.

    With a deeper pan, you will have more fluid in the transmission (which is a very good thing). The dipstick will still register a fluid level that transmission needs (ie: level where fluid level should not normally contact moving parts) – so you will (still) need to use the dipstick for proper level.

    What I’m concerned about that if fluid does gets aerated (ie: foamy) and sense foam floats on top of the fluid – that transmission is more likely to suck the aerated fluid, with filter up higher in transmission fluid.

    Now with that said – will you have a problem with that issue?
    Most likely no – unless you plan on road racing car, or perform other vehicular acts most drivers will not perform.
    BudW
     
  12. Oldiron440

    Oldiron440 Well-Known Member

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    Yes and no
    No so go figure it out for yourself.
     
  13. Bruceynz

    Bruceynz Well-Known Member

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    Ok making progress, not much this weekend but looking like I am getting there, got about 1cm clearance between fan and bottom hose, should be ok if not will have a leak! Shroud a bit short compared to LA fan and last pick shows she is just about back together.

    fan.JPG
    shroud.jpg
    getting there.jpg
     
  14. jasperjacko

    jasperjacko Well-Known Member

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    Would you just get this thing running already?! the suspense is killing us. lol
     
  15. Bruceynz

    Bruceynz Well-Known Member

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    lol lol getting there, fuel pump to plum in the back, anyone put a holley red pump in the back for a J before and where did you put it?

    Family slows down progress, I could of done a lot more but my children are 6 and 9 so they have things on (yesterday a 10 year old and 40 year old birthday party, 40th being a surprise one) I mowed the lawns in the evening all I managed to do on the car was, bottom hose, trans lines, fan and shroud. Still its couple more we jobs done!
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2017 at 2:49 PM
  16. BudW

    BudW Well-Known Member

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    1cm seems a bit close for fan blade.
    The good news is under load, the engine should tilt in a direction that should allow for more gap – unless the hose is already contacting the K-Frame. From your first picture – I can’t tell.

    If it was my car, I might loosen the lower radiator hose from water pump and pull it out a little – away from pump, and re-tighten the clamp – and see if that gives you more room.

    Another trick I use – is to twist the hose slightly when tightening the clamp (which takes 3 hands to do, sometimes). Sometimes that small twist, from one end or the other, can fix clearance problems (and hose kinks) . . . sometimes.
    BudW
     
  17. Bruceynz

    Bruceynz Well-Known Member

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    Have already tried the first step, it is close but I have no other options