360 Magnum

[AJ/FormS]

What bud said............in 297,lol

I had experienced this myself, so I was sorta sure that was your problem. But I still think your line-pressure is a tad high.
Hyup I watched the picture shows, And you're right it is hard to tell.
If you make another video, put the camera on the tach, angle the tach down a bit, and try and get one run to 60mph using light to moderate gaspedal, like you might normally use, but not as much as when merging onto the hiway. This, just to see the shifts, and the rpm-drops between shifts. It would be helpful if you called out the mphs when it shifts. When you get to 60, cruise it there for maybe 5 to 8 seconds,so we can catch it, and then lean in to it so we can see what the TC is doing. Hit it just hard enough to stall the tc, and accelerate for maybe 2 seconds, then back off all the way until back at 60. Then roll back into it to maintain 60 mph. I wanna see what that TC is doing.
But honestly
If you're happy with the shift quality,the shift-timing, and the rpm-drops,then it's 100%.

 

[AJ/FormS]

I seem to remember a few years when both names appeared on the same box, especially on truck parts.

 

[BudW]

Dana 60 = Spicer 60
Dana 35 = Spicer 35, etc.

The 8¼” (corporate) is made by Chrysler in-house (except for below) and is different from anything Dana/Spicer makes, normally – except for replacement parts.

Dana has built some 8¼” and other size axles for Chrysler when a need exists, using Chrysler (or Dana equivalent) parts, like during labor strikes or fill a large military order, etc.
BudW

 

[Bruceynz]

AJ - I found I was not getting 2 3 shifts until I lifted my foot off the gas, that to me suggested the KD leavers was to far back, thats when I adjusted in 1/8" looser and now it seems to work normally, so I would guess its pretty much optimized

 

[kkritsilas]

Dana 60 is the 9.75" rear, as used behind the Hemis and 440 Six Pack cars (very big, very strong, and very heavy). I think our 8.25" are a Dana 40 or 44. There is a whole series of Dana numbers. I have heard of a Dana 80,70, 60, 50, 44, and 40. There are probably others that I don't know of.

 

[Bruceynz]

Bud you can, just don't get caught


I can’t view the videos at work. Will try to view them when I get home.

Sometimes getting the throttle pressure just right (via linkage) takes care of things.
BudW

 

[BudW]

Our work has our network on a very tight leash. The company president sent out a video for us to view yesterday morning about company goals for next quarter. Our network wouldn’t allow it to run, so they sent a copy to show on a laptop in our breakroom, yesterday to watch.
Hey, they did at least give us bagels and donuts to eat, at least.


The Dana numbers are unrelated to the corporate Chrysler axle sizes. Somewhat close . . . well, no not really.
The Dana/Spicer 60 was used in many 440’s and Hemi’s (but not all) – but was mostly used in ¾ and 1 ton trucks. There is a Dana 80 in my ¾ ton diesel pickup (11¾” diameter ring gear) – that the differential assembly weights as much as some Japanize cars do.

In the 00’s, Chrysler went by ring gear diameter, in mm, to determine which differential – for many Jeeps still use Dana 35’s and Dana 44’s – and size differences got too confusing.
Dana 35 uses 7.5” (191mm) ring gear
Dana 44 uses 8.5” or 8.9” (216 or 226 mm) ring gear
Dana 53 uses 9¼” ring gear (’67-68 440 4-speed C-bodies and Jeeps only)
Dana 60 uses 9¾” (248 mm) ring gear. Used in ’66-72 cars (semi-floating), pickups (full-floating).
Dana 70 (10¾” 273 mm)
Dana 80 (11¾” 298 mm)

The Chrysler corporate axles (designed by/built by)
7¼”
8¼” (213 mm)
8¾” (dropout or banjo design)
9¼” (235 mm)

When ordering parts on some vehicles, like some Jeeps for example, they don’t care if a Dana or an 8¼” or whatever. They want to know the ring gear in mm before they will look up parts.

Note: the Dana 35, Dana 44, Dana 60, Chrysler 8¼” and 8¾” also are used in the front on 4x4’s. The reason I bring that up is the front drive ring gear are cut the other way than rear drive ring gears are.
BudW

 

[80mirada]

Bud beat me to it

 

[Bruceynz]

I found this on the list, anyone able to help me out in getting it and rebuilding it, its the clutch type right (not the cone)

Mopar 8 1/4 posi unit

 

[Oldiron440]

You guys are getting of base.
check this out it will help. Dana is not Chrysler. Dana/ Spicer sold to Ford and GM and AMC. The 8.25 was Chrysler built.....
Differential Identification | West Coast Differentials

 

[Bruceynz]

Bud and AJ Forms - what do you think of this one, I could run the 3.55 gears and it will have a little more get up and go off line Are they hard to rebuild the clutch packs?? I have a complete rebuild kit for a 8.25" so don't need to buy one.

Dodge Plymouth Mopar 8.25 8 1/4 Auburn Style Sure Grip Posi 3.55 Gears 27 Spline | eBay

 

[AJ/FormS]

How much is that shipped to your door, and installed?
Is it worth that to you?
Remember that the pinion may have to be shimmed to bring in the pattern, and it may take several tries to get it right.The ring gear will have to be moved left and right and the bearings preloaded. Some specialized tools will be needed and or built.
What I'm saying is that once you have it in your possession, there may be more installation costs involved.
Make sure it is out of a rear wheel drive application.
3.55s are a good compromise gear. About 10% stronger take off than 3.23s, but also plus 10% higher hiway rpm. And the engine will burn thru the gears a lil quicker. I've been running 3.55s now for many,many, years.

I liked the $100 one.
But it looks like the crosspin won't come out without the ring gear coming off first anyway, so what's another hour or so of installation time, to get the 3.55s in there,lol.
But it really depends on if you can hack the extra Rs on the hiway.
For a city-only car,
IMO, 3.55s are not a big enough jump for the price difference, in your location. Here in Canada yes ,cuz the delivered-to-my-door cost of new 3.55s is about $300Can., IIRC.And that is about 20hours of net-pay.
A city-only car does very well with 3.73s. This puts the Rs at about 2200 when cruising at 32 in second, yet at the downshift into first, the Rs jump to near 3900, and you are g-o-n-e. Just don't try and cruise the hiway for any length of time,tho, cuz 65=3100 with 26" tires.

IMO, for performance AND hiway........we really need another gear in the trans.
FWI only;
The A500 has pretty good splits with ratios of 2.74-1.54-1.00-.69od This would work very well with those 3.73s, bringing the hiway Rs down from 3100 to 2140.
That od is a bit much tho for 3.23s, dropping the Rs to 1870. This is great for a small cam, like 222@.050 or less. But by 235ish, the Rs are too low for carburated fuel economy, especially a 750dp Holley,lol. What I'm suggesting is that if you see an OD in your future, the 3.55s will be probably get shelved, at that time .

Parting shot
Buying a used gear-set is a bit of a crapshoot.You just never know if it will be quiet back there after the install. A noisy set is very difficult to see by looking at it.

 

[Bruceynz]

$300USD by the time I get it will be $700NZD plus! So the best option would be to get this one DANA TRAC LOK POSI 8.25" 27 Spline MOPAR Chrysler 75101X Differential Carrier | eBay and use my install kit and my 3.21 gear set out of my current rear end?

I don't think the the OD trans fits without modifying the tunnel and unless I want to get myself in serious expensive issues the OD trans is out of the question. I am not allowed to modify the tunnel in anyway, not even to put a floor shifter in, but hey I am allowed to dick around with the brakes on my car as much as I want as long as they pass on the rolling road. Go figure

 

[Oldiron440]

I gave the last LS 8.25 I had away about two years ago, before that I sold a A body LA 8.25 for $50.00 and felt like I won the lottery.
Just no call for them parts in my parts world. I do have a 9.25 LS in the basement I'd like to get rid of, it will probably go for scrap after I croke.

 

[Bruceynz]

Hmmm where do I find these good deals

 

[Bruceynz]

This maybe an option, things are expensive to do over here, I do like the idea of that Eaton Tru Trac but they only come in 29 spline, things are not so expensive to do over there in USA, if I could find a stuffed rear end over there to fit into my doba, how hard would it be to build one up that would bolt straight in and who has the skills over there to build one and what would it cost? Then I could have kiwi shipping send it over to me in NZ and bolt it straight it. Then sell my open 8.25" in New Zealand.

Maybe someone would like to take up the Challenge helping a fellow mopar man down under, you guys so dam lucky over there! I am jealous!

 

[brotherGood]

In the interest of helping others doing a search..if were talking differentials and such, shouldn't it be moved out of the engine section and into the differentials?

 

[Bruceynz]

probably but its just evolved from my build I guess

 

[Oldiron440]

Its his build and thread, no problem.

 

[brotherGood]

Suggestions related to the build I get..but when were discussing the potential build of an axle in the engines thread..at what point do we abandon topics altogether.

In terms of this case I don't really care.. however I've seen where this kind of thing gets carried away in other forums and becomes an absolute mess