360 Magnum

[BudW]

The Metric P/S pumps will have “Metric” cast into the front half of pump – but conveniently hidden behind the P/S pulley and mounting brackets (another hand meets forehead moment).

I doubt your existing P/S pump is Metric – but it can/could be.
If it is Metric, then all fasteners that attach to it, will also be Metric

The P/S hoses “should” be the same on all FMJ vehicles (but honestly – I hadn’t looked that part up).
BudW

 

[BudW]

Hi Bud,
I bought one of these
View attachment 23033

Cool beans - except for the freight charge and time to arrive.
BudW

 

[Bruceynz]

So if i but that power steering hose on ebay good chance it will fit?

 

[80mirada]

The high pressure fitting is metric on J bodies. My 79 Magnum was metric thread with an imperial sized hex fitting originally

 

[Bruceynz]

Ok thanks, so that hose I showed should do the trick then, I will buy it now. Thanks for your help!

 

[80mirada]

Yep

 

[Bruceynz]

Well next step is to get my 360 LA sold off and get the Magnum back together, are the main caps and rod bearings torque same as the LA, I found on the mag swap site their recommended torque settings for most of the engine but none for the bottom end and I will replace the rear main, I have a felpro viton one to go in. I have a new oil pump sitting there so will pop that in as well, sort of give the thing an over haul and make sure its ok before I put it in.

 

[kkritsilas]

Aside from the head assemblies and cam/lifters/pushrods, the rest of the Magnum engine is an LA engine. The block, cranckshaft, rods, and all bearings are the same. So the LA spec for the main caps/bearings and rod caps/bearings should be the same.

 

[Bruceynz]

Hi Guys, this was emailed to me today if it helps anyone else out. Also 360 mag swap has info there about doing some bolts up a little less due to breakage. I am using ARP head bolts and they are 50/100flt lbs

MAGNUM TORQUE SPECS
Torque/Tune-up
Torque Specifications
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Description Specifications
Intake Manifold 12 FT/LBS MAX
Exhaust Manifold 25 FT/LBS
Flywheel 55 FT/LBS
Flywheel Bolt Sealer
Flywheel Surfacing FLAT
Damper 135 FT/LBS, 2002=180 FT/LBS
Damper Bolt Sealer
Main Bearing Cap 85 FT/LBS
Additional Main Cap Bolts
Connecting Rod 45 FT/LBS
Cyl Head 50, 105 FT/LBS
Camshaft Cap Torque
Camshaft Gear Bolt 50 FT/LBS USING LOCTITE PRIMER AND RED LOCTITE
Comments *1996 CAUTION: IF PRESSURE IS ZERO & CURB IDLE, DONOT RUN @ 3K.
Additional Torque Specifications
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Description Specifications
ROCKER ARM BOLT 21 FT/LBS
Tune-up Specifications
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Description Specifications
Idle Speed (rpm)
Compression Ratio 9.0:1, 100 PSI MIN
Firing Order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
Spark Plug Gap
Ignition Timing
Oil Pressure At Idle 6 PSI MIN
Oil Pressure 30-80 PSI @ 3000 RPM *
Intake Valve Lash .060-.210" DRY
Exhaust Valve Lash .060-.210" DRY (1.524-5.334 MM)

 

[Bruceynz]

These are the magnum swap torque specs

Dodge Magnum Torque Specs


Here are some specifications for the Magnum engine that we commonly look up:

When using aftermarket ARP fasteners, use ARP’s recommendations over these.

Firing Order: 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

Bore/Stroke: 4.00”/3.58”
Pushrod Length (stock):6.915
5.9 stock piston dish volume:6.8cc
5.2 -no dish

Torque specs:
Intake manifold (Magnum pattern with carbureted intake):
Step 1: 16 ft-lbs.
Step 2: 23-25 ft-lbs.

Intake Manifold (LA):
Step 1: 15 ft-lbs.
Step 2: 35 ft-lbs.

Cylinder head bolts (note, if using ARP bolts/studs use the ARP specifications):
Step 1: 50 ft-lb
Step 2: 105 ft-lb

Harmonic Balancer bolt:
180 ft-lb. (Chrysler spec)
130 ft-lb. (what we use, your mileage may vary)

Cam Sprocket bolt:
50 ft-lbs.
40 ft-lbs. (what we use after snapping a bolt at 50 ft-lbs. We also put a touch of loc-tite on the threads – again, your own risk)

Flexplate bolts:
55 ft-lbs.

Water Pump/Timing Cover bolts:
30 ft-lbs.

Converter bolts:
270 in-lbs. NOT ft-lbs.

Oil Pump bolts:
30 ft-lbs. (Chrysler)
It is often difficult to get to the bolts with a torque wrench. When this happens it is best to snug the bolts but not to go overboard. The pump body is cast, and will crack if you get too crazy.

Oil Pan bolts:
215 in-lbs.
Note: It is more important to use the correct pattern than it is to get the exact Newton Meter reading.

 

[Bruceynz]

Does this look good?

 

[BudW]

Yes.
The Kickdown lever is at the inverse of 11:30 O’clock position (in this case 5:30 O’clock).
The throttle is not quite at correct position – but that part is not as important (as the kickdown is).

Looking good!
BudW

 

[Bruceynz]

Bud - Can you copy my pic, and mark on it with red dots where the cables should go, I have 40mm of travel with the carb for full throttle and kick down leaver all the way back and the throttle cable in the car has 40mm of travel when I checked it last night, I am a thinking we are going to be pretty much bank on the money!

 

[BudW]

The Throttle start angle and end angle is not important.
The transmission kickdown start angle and end angles is important for correct transmission operation – which you have set correctly (the inverse is because of cable pull vs. linkage push).

The setup you have looks “on the money” to me.

Side note: I would rather have a bit of play “at idle”, than to have the carburetor open at 100%. The reason is if linkage is set up a bit on the tight side at idle, then if something happened, it could leave the throttle in a “stuck part open” position which can be dangerous.
Also, the carburetor rear butterfly – the difference on that being at ’90 (full open) vs. being at say ’80 degree open - is not going to a whole lot of power difference (if any).

If you are wanting to get the carburetor at a full open at WOT and still have a bit of play at idle, then the only recommendation I can give, would be to move the throttle opening pin towards the centerline of shaft a couple of millimeters. That would include removing the throttle cable stud, use a grinding wheel or drill off center somehow – about 2mm (or so). Reattach the throttle stud and linkage.

Personally, I would be happy with 90-95% of full throttle opening – unless you are in full race mode. That extra little bit of throttle opening is not going be noticeable.
BudW

 

[Bruceynz]

Ok thanks for the info, I will give it a go in its current set up and if I find it not the best will have a we play with the shifting it a couple mm.

 

[Bruceynz]

Trans mount arrived today, looks like the right one, anyone else looking for one here is the info.

 

[Bruceynz]

Hi Bud, do you have a drawing showing which way the trans cross member goes? I can get under the car and work it out but if I don't have to since its sitting on its wheels it makes things easier.

Thanks
Bruce

 

[BudW]

Hope this helps

F & M Transmission style (FYI)

J-body transmission.

Both transmission mount styles.

Engine mounts (FYI).

BudW

 

[Bruceynz]

Ok hard to tell, the mount is offset to one side, so pretty sure it must be offset with the engine

 

[BudW]

The engine and transmission are both offset towards the Right side of vehicle (when viewed from driver’s seat) by about 2 inches (roughly) – but is parallel to the centerline of vehicle.

The differential center (yoke) is at centerline of the vehicle – so propeller shaft has an up/down angle as well as side to side angle (to reduce vibration)
BudW