The OP (Brucenz) lives in New Zealand !
As in the US (state to state), Canadian regulation vary from province to province. Ontario and BC are a lot stricter than than Alberta (where I live), and from what I hear, Saskatchewan is even more laid back.
We finally got rid of the dreaded AIRCARE annual emissions testing because the percentage of cars that failed was so low that they could not justify charging everyone the annual inspection fee. Now its pretty well run what you brung within reason of course.
more progress, engine and trans out! any one know where I get one of those weird x member trans mounts they use on our cars
J-bodies differ in that area of the car than anything else Chrysler made – and the transmission mounts are one of those things that are J-body only.
I looked at Rockauto.com and the mounts they show are F/M body (and older) Chrysler design.
I attached a picture of how F/M-body looks vs. J-body as well as Dodge part numbers.
It is “possible” a transmission mount “insert” might work – but I doubt it (not tried so not sure).
I would try an insert before giving up, though.
Ok, What I have done is flipped the U bracket (14) around, drilled 2 holes in the X member and will use the standard trans mount. Its all pretty close in measurements. (1/8" or 3mm different) (Bud - you can see the trans cable you gave me the part number for hooked to the trans in this photo)
With all the slop I have seen in rubber bushes, engine mounts, trans mounts, body isolators, suspensions mounts I can't see 1/8" will not be a problem
Hmmm I may have over looked the forward and arft position, the stock mount will put the x member directly under the mounting holes on trans.
J-bodies used two different trans crossmembers
This is what I found on eBay
anchor 2624 | eBay
Look what I just got from the USA, note on the box where they are made! These heads have a lot of freight on them, crazy I can't buy here! Masport is a big foundary in NZ
There is a great article in October 2017 issue of Mopar Muscle on the EngineQuest heads (article name is "Magnum Opus"). They were originally designed to replace the crack prone Magnum heads, but the project manager is a racer, so he got the designer to improve flow in a number of different ways, without increasing the cost. They outflow the factory Magnum heads by a bit, and outflow the LA heads considerably (as do the factory Magnum heads). In the article, with porting, they begin to approach the flow of Big Block heads (264 (intake)/184 (exhaust) CFM at 28 in, HG vacuum pressure). The improvements are across the board at all lift levels, and on both the intake and exhaust sides. The aricle is on the CH318B heads, which have the LA pattern intake bolts. I would assume that the Magnum intake bolt version really doesn't vary much from that.
You should see what I bought and am now selling! I will give you a sneak preview, these heads look amazing but they won't fit the mag and are probably a bit big for a street 360!
Yup its what it looks like the 190cc CNCed alloy heads to fit an LA, and I am selling them now!
why is so much of the guide showing?
what brand are those?
They are the Chinese ones "speedmaster" I would of bought eddies but the x rate between USA/NZ is crippling!
$700USD + $100 freight = $1176NZD plus tax = $1355NZD so I nearly pay double what you pay for them, I have to work twice as long as what you do in the USA to buy the same part!
Ok, I pulled the hose off the back of the 1983 Cordoba power steer pump, something odd happened the imperial spanner didn't fit the small nut very well but the metric one did, odd I thought. Undone the hose and it screwed right into the 2001 Magnum power steering pump, whats this mean? I noticed the hose is looking a bit weathered although it never leaked, I was thinking to buy a replacement hose but what do I buy, one on eBay that fits a 1983 Cordoba?
NEW EDELMANN POWER STEERING HOSE 71137 '83-'89 FIFTH AVENUE,'80-'89 DIPLOMAT, | eBay
I think that there are some fasteners on our cars that are metric. All of the LA engine fasteners are imperial, but I think that some of the unique chassis parts are metric. Either that, or the power steering hose uses an oddball size (in 32nds or 64ths) that just happens to be a very close match for a metric wrench.
When the US car industry started to move to metric dimensions, there was a transitional period. Parts that were "new" as in not fitting older cars, were made in metric. The older parts, as in the engines, transmissions, and some suspension parts that were in place prior to the move to metric were NOT re-engineered. They were used, with their imperial dimensions, until they went out of production. Whatever replaced them came in as metric.The Gen III Hemi (the 5.7L/6.1L/6.2L/6.4L V8s) are all metric. The Magnum V8s are not, as they were based on the LA V8s. Your power settering hose, if it is J body only, could be metric, but the engine will be imperial. So US cars in the 1980s and 1990s have a mix of fasteners, with really no way to predict which part will be imperial or metric.
There is also the possibility that trhe PO of your car changed the power steering pump and hoses over to a Magnum type due to the original pump being bad, and it may have been cheaper to use the newer Magnum type pump and hoses.
I think I have a thread pitch gauge in my tap and die set, may have to dig it out and see whats going on.
The bolt holes in transmission mount, bracket and/or crossmember can be slotted for the desired adjustment (if needed) - but I would recommend doing two different things first.
- Mock set up the crossmember with old mount and bracket with snug bolts. Take measurements on how high and how forward the “to transmission” bolt holes are.
- Then do the same to how it is configured. If height and forward spacing are both ok – then you have my thumbs up.
Height is a critical for propeller shaft / U-joint angle (which causes vibration as well as can decrease U-joint life) – so even a 1/8” height difference will cause a problem.
The difference side to side or fore/aft is not as big of an issue (but still can be) and any adjustments might be fixed by elongating bolt holes.
Before tightening any of the transmission mount bolts – make sure the transmission crossmember is tight and engine mounts are tight. Those Poly mounts don’t have much give, otherwise.
Same thing with engine mounts. Have the two engine mount to block bolts snug until placed into K-frame. Then tighten those engine mount bolts.
Sense you will be installing both engine and transmission into car, removing/dropping the K-frame down with both still attached to it, might be a suggestion (or something to think about sense you are using headers) – but no way required (in other words, dropping K-frame/engine/transmission and raising body up over it).
I bought one of these
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