360 Magnum

[BudW]

About 15 years ago, or so, Oklahoma had a safety inspection and visual emissions inspection (they didn’t care if items worked or not – just that items are “in-place”) – in the two major city areas.
Then they stopped doing even that.
It was a “pain” to get your car inspected – but all-in-all, it is a good idea sense people are out there driving cars with bald tires and windshields so broken you would have to have “fly or bee vision” to look out of.
BudW

 

[Bruceynz]

Every 6 months my car goes on a rolling road brake machine to check brakes, they check the window wipers, lights, safety belts, tires, ball joints, park brake, glass is not broken, locks all work, etc etc it takes about half and hour and cost $50! They even take your car for a drive and check it steers ok, alignment is ok if they fail it you have 28 days to have it rechecked or pay again, you are not allowed to drive you car on the road unless it has passed its inspection, any time you do you void your insurance, medical care if there is an accident and your up for a steep fine.

 

[BudW]

Every 6 months?

 

[Bruceynz]

every 6

 

[Bruceynz]

I think to get the Cordoba on the road I had to put new brakes pads in it, new shoes, new brake hoses, new ball joints, new seat belts in the front, new horn as they didn't think the Chrysler horn was loud enough, they failed it for the quality of the factory cross member welds, new shocks, sway bar bushing, had to fit a high stop brake light, tires and more that I can't remember off the top of my head, I think I spent $1000 on seat belts, then all the other stuff, plus to register as it was over 4000cc I had to pay $800 and about $500 for the check. I think I was road legal for about $3000!

 

[Bruceynz]

This email come in, so my goodies not to far away now

The container will Tranship ex Auckland on board the ANL Warrnambool V132N ETA Lyttleton 2/8/17

The container will be taken to our unpack depot in Ron Guthrey Road after the vents have been sealed at the Ports of Lyttleton in preparation for fumigation.

Please allow 7-10 working days for container fumigation, unpack, customs clearance and MPI inspection (if required). Please note storage charges start 5 days after completion of unpack.

We will be in touch with you as soon as your shipment is available and ready for collection.

 

[4speedjim]

Here in NY its about the same, but annually. And its probably not quite as intrusive IIRC. Now most us car guys know a shop where they will not look very hard at a personal car, but the poor guy that has no friends in the biz get the white glove thorough inspection. Bald tires burnt out bulbs, cracked windshields and other obvious infractions will never pass inspection, but a little slop in a ball joint or stuff not obvious or dangerous a friend can pass for me. Maybe you can find a shop with a hot car or two and drop by with some cold beers and make a friend? They cant all be ultra pricks, can they? Id think theres got to be a couple with a cool owner that would overlook a welded trans tunnel and OD trans upgrade. Or all they all Govt owned and run?

 

[Bruceynz]

Hi Jim,

Not so easy here, the gov has inspectors that go around and out of the blue will take a car you have just past and reinspect it, if you have passed something as much as a tunnel mod you would loose your certification to issue the safely check and thus loose money and thus get a black mark against your business, so unlikely you will find one here in NZ, you see the gov has most things tied up pretty dam good to make us comply with the rules, they don't bust me they bust the issuer who has more to loose.

Did you ever see the movie the "Good fellas" and the kid was getting letters sent home from the school, the mob didn't go to the school they went and roughed up the postman

Thanks
Bruce

 

[Bruceynz]

Hi Guys,

A little bit of progress, this cable system is so nice! Started setting it up on the floor so, I am so impressed I bought the matching throttle cable!

The night before I rebuilt the alternator, fitted new idler, so making little bit of progress.

 

[BudW]

Looking nice!


Note: for Chryslers, the Throttle cable attachment on carburetor needs to be at an 11:30 O’clock position (closed throttle).
The kickdown cable, if it attaches to bottom of carburetor, will need to be at a 5:30 O’clock position.
Also, the carburetor throttle cable stud will need to be at a 2:30 O-clock position - when carburetor is at WOT (Wide Open Throttle).

GM carburetors (the one shown in picture), the carburetor closed throttle attaches at 10:30 O’clock and is WOT at 1:30 O’clock – which makes a difference on throttle cable length and makes transmission kickdown controls way out of whack.

A Chrysler/Mopar carburetor throttle bracket will fix that (only trying to prevent a problem - before it becomes a problem) - which I think you might have somewhere.
BudW

 

[Bruceynz]

Ok at the moment I have the trans leaver just sitting where you can just feel the pressure come on, then when I opened the throttle fully open the trans leaver is all the way back, I played with the adjustments until I got it working like that. I have then gone to the carb throttle cable in the car and worked out it moves about a tad over an inch from idle to full throttle, I then worked out on the carb by turning throttle and measuring distance it moved and seeing where I needed to be to get full throttle with just over an inch movement, this to me would mean I have it set progressive to the throttle. When the throttle is at 50% the carb will be open half and the leaver will be half way back on the trans. Have I set it up wrong, why do I need a Chrysler carb bracket for the carb when I am not using the rod system anymore?

Ok I found this on this site and its pretty much exactly how I was going to set mine up. Scroll to about half way down

lokar cables

 

[BudW]

The amount of motion the kickdown rod moves - is greater at beginning of carburetor shaft rotation (off idle) than the amount of motion at the end of shaft rotation (close to WOT) – on the linkage.

This will give transmission less pressure for clutches and less likely to kickdown at part throttle.
Also will make top end kickdown more likely (which might not be a bad thing, for the last part).

Now IF this make much of a difference on a “built up” transmission – probably not.
On a “stock build” transmission – it is a lot bigger of a concern.


On the link you provided – The picture in Post # 16 has the correct setup for Chrysler.
BudW

 

[Bruceynz]

Hi Bud,

Ok thanks for all the info.

 

[Bruceynz]

Stops - when the throttle pedal is full down should I be using the carb as the stop or should I be putting a stop under the gas pedal?

 

[BudW]

The carburetor should be the WOT stop.
Just make sure there is play in throttle cable wen at idle (in other words, the cable is not holding the throttle open)

 

[Bruceynz]

Bud are you on skype at all and we can chat? my skype ID at work is bruceynz2003

 

[BudW]

I have Skype (at home) but like in Facebook - I hardly go there (not been logged into in a couple of years?).
We are to start using Skype at work, soon - but it’s not yet functional.

 

[Bruceynz]

what about whatsapp?

 

[Oldiron440]

Canada must be a great place to build a hotrod!
My 76 Volare has a very dirty 440 er 500" 440, 2 to3 mpg.

 

[Oldiron440]

On e-85...........