I didn’t, I at was at work and just scrubbed to him unboxing the parts. I’ll check it out more after my dentist appointment.
383, A sense of direction
- Thread starter Camtron
- Start date
For his DIY 500-600hp 904 build kit, reverse manual valve body (he recommends if over 500hp) and the adapter kit, it would run about $2,200. For a HP/track ready big block trans from say, A & A transmissions, I could easily spend $5k. For a random 727 off the street and everything to rebuild it for performance, still looking at $2.5-$4k.
I just emailed John to ask his advice. The guy made a decent career running smallblock trans behind big block engines. I’m sure there’s something more to it that I’m missing...hopefully he can fill me in.
I just emailed John to ask his advice. The guy made a decent career running smallblock trans behind big block engines. I’m sure there’s something more to it that I’m missing...hopefully he can fill me in.
I’m not 100%, but I think the carriers and clutches are indeed different between the two.
This all came about because I talked myself out of spending more money on cam kit from Hughes Engines for the magnum swap, lol.
You guys definitely have more experience and knowledge with all this for sure...Hell, my dad can’t even change his own oil (and that was before he had a stroke) and I didn’t really start getting into cars until my late 20s, and I’m only 32 now; so, I do appreciate the input and often apply what I’m told and learn on here.
I mean, I’m just working ideas. There’s no practicality in this. Hell, I’d just stroke the fresh 5.9 magnum I have in the garage and focus on utilizing the parts I already have assembled for a small block build...but my heart wants a big block when I’m “done” working on this ride; and for some reason I can’t bring myself to sell my small block parts. I want to use them. If I do it half right I’ll end up with two solid drivetrains.
Nothings set in stone, I’m realistically 2 years out at a minimum from being close to start putting the big block together. Plenty of time to learn.
You guys definitely have more experience and knowledge with all this for sure...Hell, my dad can’t even change his own oil (and that was before he had a stroke) and I didn’t really start getting into cars until my late 20s, and I’m only 32 now; so, I do appreciate the input and often apply what I’m told and learn on here.
I mean, I’m just working ideas. There’s no practicality in this. Hell, I’d just stroke the fresh 5.9 magnum I have in the garage and focus on utilizing the parts I already have assembled for a small block build...but my heart wants a big block when I’m “done” working on this ride; and for some reason I can’t bring myself to sell my small block parts. I want to use them. If I do it half right I’ll end up with two solid drivetrains.
Nothings set in stone, I’m realistically 2 years out at a minimum from being close to start putting the big block together. Plenty of time to learn.
80mirada
Well-Known Member
Practically there is no real difference between a big block and small block 727, other than case. Year range, and "designed load" are the differences
Yes and no.
For the most part, a low end 318 A727 guts are the same as an (same year) 383/400 2-bbl A727 guts (the difference is the case).
Now /6 guts are way low end. There is not much, if anything, inside a /6 A727 (or A904) worth keeping.
As the performance level goes up, the number of planetary gear pinions (3, 4, 5 or 6) on the two (or three for overdrive) and the number of clutch disks/plates on each clutch pack (more disks/plates = more torque capacity).
A lot of parts changed over the years (for better and for worse).
I have heard from friends the plate style SB to BB changeover is finicky, cheap looking and hard to get things setup correctly (crankshaft center-line to transmission center-line) - but have no first hand knowledge on that.
Another point is the transmission mount will be placed rearwards the thickness of the plate - which can be (or not) an issue.
The system used on post # 92 is what I have been eyeballing.
JW Performance 29457 Ultra Bell. This item is not cheap (over $500 US) and requires cutting up a case to make it fit. I have "heard" a friend saying this method is not that strong sense all power goes through the small front pump bolts - but there is a ton of people using this without any problems - so I think someone was trying to make this method sound bad (...I guess).
Note: I have been working on this reply for sometime now and others might have beat me in replying.
BudW
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
It isn't only the bolts taking the force. When properly torqued, the "friction" between the case and bell are adding strength to the set up. I'm not sure how much of the torque actually goes through the bell. I mean, a 4-speed is only attached by 4 bolts and they work fine. Granted, the bolts are a little bigger but only 4 of them, vs 7 for the adapter bell.
The front pump bolts on A904 are tiny. The A727 front pump are a bit larger.
I would not use the bell replacement on an BB using an A904! If you want to use a A904 on a BB, use the adapter place method.
I would not use the bell replacement on an BB using an A904! If you want to use a A904 on a BB, use the adapter place method.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
I have a friend who uses 904 parts in his 727, xfbodyx is correct in his parts list for a 727, those and a manual valvebody or a good shit kit to convert it to a manual valvebody will hold 700hp. You don't need a lot to make a 727 strong.
Xfbody don't worn him about torqueflite blowing up or he will tell you stuff it, he seams to know it all and doesn't need or want opinions on what he is doing.
If big money is to be spent on a Tf, I would go Turbo 400 with a case the bolts directly to the mopar big block. But what do I know.
Xfbody don't worn him about torqueflite blowing up or he will tell you stuff it, he seams to know it all and doesn't need or want opinions on what he is doing.
If big money is to be spent on a Tf, I would go Turbo 400 with a case the bolts directly to the mopar big block. But what do I know.
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You have poor reading comprehension and have missed a bunch if that’s all you’ve taken away from the posts here. Thanks for stopping by.
Can someone explain how a small block trans built for 500-600hp can stand up behind a small block making that power, but will seemingly “explode” behind a big block making the same power?
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
You know it all and can probably use Google, go for it.
There I can do snarky replies also and I m not just stopping by.
There I can do snarky replies also and I m not just stopping by.
Dude, you came here with the snarky reply and no actual input. Jog on, be helpful or don’t bother wasting your or my time.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
My first reply tonight was supporting XfbodyX posts, he is very knowledgeable on mopars a the Fbody, only a fool would dismiss his input with such disrespect.
Many don't know you can build a GM turbo 400 to handle what ever power level you can muster that bolts to a mopar big block.
Believe it or not that's a good tip.
Just don't trip over your shoestrings check it out. Google is your friend.
Many don't know you can build a GM turbo 400 to handle what ever power level you can muster that bolts to a mopar big block.
Believe it or not that's a good tip.
Just don't trip over your shoestrings check it out. Google is your friend.
What input from him did I dismiss exactly?
I’ve acknowledged everything he’s said. We’ve had dealings in the past, there’s no disrespect to be had towards him...Towards people who regularly chime in on posts with no actual advise to contribute, sure.
Oh, thanks for letting me know about this, Google thing and the GM turbo 400. I’ll have to search for it on, yahoo later tonight.
That’s why people post questions on here, so they can be told to look on Google. Super helpful.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
Just trying to help...
Clearly, you should do a write up
Title: GM turbo 400 swap.
Body: Google is your friend.
You’ve helped more people than you know. Thanks.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
There's the one thing you know, disrespect, you probably get plenty of it.
Not particularly, just don’t care for people who regularly contribute nothing on a forum made for contributing information on these cars and parts, ect.
You do this pretty often. Pretty sure I called you out for the same thing on a thread I made about paint a year or two ago. If you’re not here trying to contribute actual useful information and are just regularly criticizing and providing anecdotal stories, you’re absolutely useless here.
Do you have any first hand experience with the CRT parts I mentioned originally, know anyone who’s running them in their car? No? So, what exactly was the point of your reply? Right, there was no point. You just wanted to be snarky. Remember, you came here and stirred the shit by making your own snarky comment to begin with.
I’m not saying you don’t know anything, ect...you clearly do. Honestly. You just regularly choose not to share anything useful on the forum. You can do it on someone else’s threads.
Torque Flights go boom when the drum free wheels somewhere past 9000 RPM. It's possible to hit this because when the conditions are met it's going 2x engine RPM. The fix for it is to replace the factory drum with a billet steel one.
Improper burnouts (not starting in 2nd gear) and a damaged rear axle can cause the sprag to fail; which will cause the drum to free spin.
Am I getting this right guys?
My 518 still has the factory powdered metal drum in it. When it comes out for a refresh it'll get a bolt-in sprag and steel drum.
Improper burnouts (not starting in 2nd gear) and a damaged rear axle can cause the sprag to fail; which will cause the drum to free spin.
Am I getting this right guys?
My 518 still has the factory powdered metal drum in it. When it comes out for a refresh it'll get a bolt-in sprag and steel drum.
