408 Stroker build who's keen to watch this one :)

That thing will make over 400HP for sure. If that chart you posted is correct then the flow rate of the heads will support 500HP give or take. The cam you have selected, while on the small side, will make for an excellent street build with great torque. You're going to love that motor.
 
I wouldn't worry about horse power it's the torque that moves your car. And what it has from 2500 on up will be at least 400 foot pounds, just enough to make ya smile.
 
I have forgotten witch carburetor you have, hopefully a 750.
 
Just hit first major snag, piston are 40 over, block is a mag block, mag block may not bore 40 over, hmmmmm the standard bores are perfect! no lip!
 
Bruceynz said:
Just hit first major snag, piston are 40 over, block is a mag block, mag block may not bore 40 over, hmmmmm the standard bores are perfect! no lip!
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Get the bores sonic checked. My original 360 build was a 1985 block that had to be bored .040" over and it was just fine.
 
Options are new pistons
Different block
Sleeve block you have if walls don't measure up, if that's the case use thick wall sleeves.
 
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Check out my lawn mower:D

Bit hard to see in photos as a lip test is done with your finger nail
 
How easy can you come up with a set of pistons down there?
 
I know of an LS build that the block had 182k and had no cylinder wear what so ever.
New standard higher compression pistons were ordered and a mild cam, it made 430 hp.
This is not the norm if you have any cylinder wear the chance of ring failure is high especially with a stroker combination.
 
This block has no wear, I can't feel anything with my finger nail! No need to bore it, only reason I was going to bore was because I had over sized pistons. The cheapest pistons would be the KB416-STD I have found them at Huges for about $400 including rings. By the time I get them to NZ they will be about $800NZD so they are expensive!

On a side note I picked up for next to nothing a ridge remover, not a common tool used today I wouldn't think but never the less means I could remove a lip/ridge if it had one!
 
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Those can be a dangerous tool for the first time user, it's fairly easy to cut way to much off the top of the cylinder.
 
I've been thinking about this and the thing that concerns me is the increase in stroke, your cylinders would have to have zero wear on top and bottom. Because of the increase in stroke the rings will go past the original stopping pionts, something the LS I mentioned earlier didn't do with its stock crank.
 
Go back a few posts and check out my pics, you will still see the cross hatch marks in the bores, I dunno what Chrysler put in there but it sure is strong, nickle and chromium? I think I will get away with a hone, my buddy who has a hone and honed my last engine (again bearings were through to the copper, crank needed a polish and bores had no lip/ridge). I will seek his opinion before I do it, always nice to get another set of eyes onto things.

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The bits you can see in there are head gasket I have scraped off :)
 
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