408 Stroker build who's keen to watch this one :)

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can't feel that mark
 
There is a trust side on a cylinder that wears more plus you have to hook at the bottom of the cylinder for a ridge also.
 
Wiped 2 bores clean, could not feel any lip/ridge on top or bottom on either side of the bores, need to check all 8 but time for bed!
 
Always, always, always, measure with proper tools. Don't rely on feel. you can't feel thousandths, and you can't feel taper, and these can ruin an engine.
 
Advice needed - If the bores are ok, which they appear to be, does this mean that I can hone the bores and then drop the standard size pistons back in or will I need to take it to a machine shop and get them to fit the pistons to each bore?
 
That's the thing if you use standard pistons, nothing gets fired it's all by chance.
 
That snapgauge cannot find the fine measurements that
can spoil your project likidy-split. You have to measure it with a dial-bore gauge.
Your bores could be curved in side view or even S-shaped and the snap gauge won't see it.
Your bores could be tapered from top to bottom, and snap gauge can miss that.
The top inch or two are the most important, and the very top .500 even more so. Even just .001 variance in that last inch is important because the ring-gap varies by over triple that, (3.1416) for that .001 inch of wear.
This makes the rings move in and out of the grooves and accelerates the wear on the bottom of the land. Additionally the piston might want to rock over to the thrust side, exposing more ring on the opposite side.
If you gap the rings in that .001 larger area to the correct factor, and they close up as the piston moves down that might not be a bad thing ..... unless they cloose to zero, then chit happens. If you compensate for that by adding gap, then you loose ring-seal.
I'm not saying your particular engine has this problem. What I am saying is that the telescopic gauge is not the right tool to prove it with. IMO, you should hire somebody to measure all your bores with the dial-bore gauge. The tool is too-expensive to buy for a one-time use, and you really need someone with experience, to set it up and read it....... correctly
 
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Thanks AJ, blocked checked over by a mechanic but still needs to be measured at the machine shop, no lip and with my snap gauges measuring at 3 points in the bore no wear measured, I know its not exactly the best way to measure but as you say who wants to fork out $$$ for a one time use tool!
 
Ma Mopar uses a an extra shot of nickel in our blocks. Them Magnums or anything with EFI the bores just dont wear. But with a stroker you need stroker pistons with the wrist pin raised up on the piston or it will come out of the hole at TDC. I think a 4" with a 1.460 CH piston pin, 17cc dish +/- for pump gas. Id bet you'd be fine with a light line hone and the right pistons. About $500 US for a set of pistons rings and oil ring support will get you on the road.
 
For a street motor that's what I would do. AJ is right, but if the bores are all fairly equal going down, I believe you will be fine. If there's anything I can do to help you with getting pistons or anything else from America I'd be happy to help. I look forward to seeing you get the motor together and fired up. Your really going to enjoy all the torque you'll be making.
 
Maybe some has a set of pistons they bought and never used we could do a deal on?? I don't mind used ones if they are in good shape.
 
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