I do hate the use of them. I also hate the use of taps, a.k.a. "Scotch Loks". They're a great point of entry for corrosion that can cause myriad hard-to-diagnose problems, the least of which is blown fuses and the greatest of which would be a fire. Somewhere in between lies an appetite for alternators, burnt fusible links, smoked switches, etc. Wire nuts and Scotch-Loks have no automotive use other than for emergencies to get you off the side of the road and to a place where you can properly make the repair. Hell, wire nuts weren't even designed for stranded wire. Get 'em out of there and replace them with heat-shrinkable crimped butt connectors. Why wait for a problem?
I figured the car wouldn't run any worse if the cable didn't reach full travel, like I said. My concern was not with whether it would go to idle, it was whether it would go to full throttle. Perhaps, rather than just firing off the first glib comment that comes to mind when you read something we're telling you, you could try actually comprehending what's being said. Earlier cars require a cable and bracket swap to correctly work the larger carb, or at least some ugly butchery of the cable and bracket that I don't recommend. The different bracket is required to locate the clamped end of the cable further back from the carburetor and cannot be bent to make work correctly. The 4V throttle cable has a shorter outer housing than the 2V, which moves its clamping point toward the firewall which accomplishes two things: It allows the cable itself to have longer travel at the same overall length (since both the TQ and the Q-Jet have longer throttle travel) and it keeps the outer housing from having an ugly bend or even kink between the throttle bracket and the firewall. That can cause a frayed inner cable, which can result in a jammed throttle.
Please also understand that this is a public forum. As such, there are many others reading this, both at this point and very possibly well into the future. Though your car may not require these other items, Future Newbie might be reading this and following it right to the letter, and then wonder why the hell his car won't work when yours did. This is why I discuss the possibilities and potential problems that may exist. I realize that your only concern here is your own car and that's cool. However, if someone reads all this in three years, perhaps we all won't have to jump in and type out the same things over and over. He'll just say, "OK, well, apparently my [insert car here] needs a different cable because I can't get it to go to WOT with the pedal," and start investigating that. Make sense?
. Working on extending the kick-down next. 
