Hi guys! New member, first post! A couple of 318 in an M-body questions :)

and lay off on the manuals! some of them are overload, filled with specs and details on 10 other cars that just happen to use the same torque conveter as yours. nothing like sifting through 100+ pages of irrellevant crap to find the handful of words that you needed.

chilton's never made much sense to me, but I haven't looked at one in 18 years. Haynes seems a bit more accesible, I liked the Clymer's but I haven't seen any for cars. I have a couple floor service manuals, some are better than others.
 
Monkeyed said:
...so whenever I get around to getting a replacement phenolic bowl and doing the job...
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Sorry to hijack, but I found one during the massive garage overhaul I'm undertaking. It's the only TQ part I have, and I don't even know how it got there. Interested?
 
Monkeyed said:
1 3/8s right?
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Nope. More like 1.5" just like most of them are after the introduction of the 1000CFM Competition Series TQ. The bottom of the float bowl does not align perfectly with the primary throttle bores. The bowls can be pretty-much swapped about willy-nilly; it's the throttle plate that changes the CFM of the carburetor. The main body just provides the venturi effect. Such is the case with a lot of carbs; a Holley 800 and 850 have the same main body stamped with a different number, but the throttle bores are larger on the 850.

The short answer is that yes, this will work just fine with your metal bits. $25 shipped sound fair? PM me.
 
Already modified the 2V throttle to work ;). Working on extending the kick-down next.

I understand, new guy to the forum.. you don't know my abilities and I don't know yours.. yada yada I am not offended, and I am not trying to be offensive ;). I get that you need to ensure what I am doing, I get it. ;) This is my first Chrysler, but it is most certainly not my first rodeo.

I was in no way trying to deviate from the ESA removal article, or trying to streamline the process.. LOL I also did not just try and do it my own way!! Jeez. Ballast has 12v run to one side and that hooks in with the blue/yellow from the ecu. I have the 12v start going to the other side of the ballast, with it, also a lead going down to the coil +. black/yellow is joined by another wiring going to the remote start at the coil -.

I stabbed the coil, rotated the engine backwards to about 12* BTDC and lined up the nearest spot in the distributor so that it is ready to start. Its ready to fire tomorrow.

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Dude... wire nuts?!

I'm not sure on your year, but on older models the 2V throttle cable will not travel far enough to fully open a ThermoQuad. Make sure you double-check that. It won't hurt anything if it doesn't, of course, but your full-throttle acceleration will be underwhelming to say the least. :eusa_doh:
 
Wire nuts are not my installation, looks like the car has had the wiper motor replaced.

Definitely has enough throttle travel, to reach the idle setting the cable is at full extension. Could it possibly be any worse than the malfunctioning 2 bbl it replaced? I doubt it haha. The only throttle position was JUST OFF IDLE and then it'd be normal.. and then BOggggggggggggg.
 
I do hate the use of them. I also hate the use of taps, a.k.a. "Scotch Loks". They're a great point of entry for corrosion that can cause myriad hard-to-diagnose problems, the least of which is blown fuses and the greatest of which would be a fire. Somewhere in between lies an appetite for alternators, burnt fusible links, smoked switches, etc. Wire nuts and Scotch-Loks have no automotive use other than for emergencies to get you off the side of the road and to a place where you can properly make the repair. Hell, wire nuts weren't even designed for stranded wire. Get 'em out of there and replace them with heat-shrinkable crimped butt connectors. Why wait for a problem?

I figured the car wouldn't run any worse if the cable didn't reach full travel, like I said. My concern was not with whether it would go to idle, it was whether it would go to full throttle. Perhaps, rather than just firing off the first glib comment that comes to mind when you read something we're telling you, you could try actually comprehending what's being said. Earlier cars require a cable and bracket swap to correctly work the larger carb, or at least some ugly butchery of the cable and bracket that I don't recommend. The different bracket is required to locate the clamped end of the cable further back from the carburetor and cannot be bent to make work correctly. The 4V throttle cable has a shorter outer housing than the 2V, which moves its clamping point toward the firewall which accomplishes two things: It allows the cable itself to have longer travel at the same overall length (since both the TQ and the Q-Jet have longer throttle travel) and it keeps the outer housing from having an ugly bend or even kink between the throttle bracket and the firewall. That can cause a frayed inner cable, which can result in a jammed throttle.

Please also understand that this is a public forum. As such, there are many others reading this, both at this point and very possibly well into the future. Though your car may not require these other items, Future Newbie might be reading this and following it right to the letter, and then wonder why the hell his car won't work when yours did. This is why I discuss the possibilities and potential problems that may exist. I realize that your only concern here is your own car and that's cool. However, if someone reads all this in three years, perhaps we all won't have to jump in and type out the same things over and over. He'll just say, "OK, well, apparently my [insert car here] needs a different cable because I can't get it to go to WOT with the pedal," and start investigating that. Make sense?
 
at least blob some silicone, or RTV on the bottoms of the nuts. I don't have any problems rigging things, but you get tired of mystery problems from things being half arsed.

to quote a friend with 30+ years of professional car stereo installation, "There's never enough time to do things right, but there is ALWAYS enough time to do them over." take your time do it right the first time, or take time now, to make time later.
 
Well it would appear you have taken some offense from me? I was never implying any, nor was I tryng to be glib or snooty ;). I didnt just fire off responses without comprehension, I read that you had concerns about the throttle reaching full travel. I checked it out, and it does which I then indicated in my reply to that post. :).

Yes this is a public forum, yes I understand that likely someone else will read this in the future. I can only state what I have on hand. I can only give my input based off of one conversion. I mean no offense nor I am not offended, I just want to get to the bottom of this is all.

Now back to the prblem at hand here. I have everything wired correctly but I am not getting any spark to the plugs.

I have proper run and start voltages to the coil at the right times, is there any specific way to test the distributor?? I cant see how it wouldnt work. Perhaps the air gap is too large??
 
8v-of-fury said:
Well it would appear you have taken some offense from me? I was never implying any, nor was I tryng to be glib or snooty ;). I didnt just fire off responses without comprehension, I read that you had concerns about the throttle reaching full travel. I checked it out, and it does which I then indicated in my reply to that post. :).

Yes this is a public forum, yes I understand that likely someone else will read this in the future. I can only state what I have on hand. I can only give my input based off of one conversion. I mean no offense nor I am not offended, I just want to get to the bottom of this is all.
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Let's re-examine:

8v-of-fury said:
Definitely has enough throttle travel, to reach the idle setting the cable is at full extension. Could it possibly be any worse than the malfunctioning 2 bbl it replaced? I doubt it haha.
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Intended or not, the first half of that part of your response indicated to me that you weren't fully reading what I'd said, since I had not said anything whatsoever about the cable length affecting the car's ability to idle. I mentioned full throttle functionality. the second half seems based on the first half, adding to it only by coming across as a glib statement. Remember, the only one reading your post from your mindset is you. Emotion, humor, sarcasm, etc. do not translate well in text form... hence the reason I use emoticons as often as I do. It helps. Ever get/send a text message that resulted in anger or hurt even though it was supposed to be nothing more than a joke? Yeah, it's the same on a forum.

8v-of-fury said:
Now back to the prblem at hand here. I have everything wired correctly but I am not getting any spark to the plugs.

I have proper run and start voltages to the coil at the right times, is there any specific way to test the distributor?? I cant see how it wouldnt work. Perhaps the air gap is too large??
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That's a very real possibility. There's two ways to make sure it's right... You can break out the manual, check the specs, get your hand on a set of non-magnetic feeler gauges, and set it to factory specifications. Tedious and time-consuming.

Or, you can loosen the screw and push the pickup up against the reluctor with a matchbook cover in between them, tighten the screw and be done. It's the "flat-rate method" and it works every time. :eusa_dance:
 
The throttle reaches both idle, and full throttle positions. It isn't a chrome lokar setup, but it's under the breather anyhow ;) so to me it does not matter. Even if the secondaries never open on this config we are miles ahead of what the car was when i tore it down. It was a gas sucking slug that was backfiring and popping all over the place, only intermittently though.

I found the spec for the gap to be 0.008", I pulled the dizzy and set it to very close to that. I set it so it was not contacting, but I could feel the magnetic pull on the reluctor when spinning the dizzy shaft. Any further clearance, and I could not feel the magnetic pull at all..

I tried another brand new computer I had, tested all my wiring over again, checked TDC and firing order again (even though I know this has nothing to do with making the spark), I pulled the computer off the firewall and grounded it with a jumper lead to the negative battery connection, I re-tested the ballast.. 1.5-2 ohms somewhere in there. Tried a different coil too. Still no spark. I don't know what is happening.. Everything checks out, there should be spark. But with a plug pulled and grounded while hooked up there is no spark to speak off. Nothing.

I am at a loss on this one. The plugs are gap set to whatever the stock 88 called for, like 0.035 or something? I can't recall.
 
I have done all of this except checking the dizzy for Ohms and AC-V while spinning it.

moparmusclemagazine said:
how the ignition box works...

it controls the NEGative side of the coil..

when it sees the small AC signal from the pick up coil go over 1/2 volt Positive.. the power transistor inside the module connects the negative side of the coil to ground.. this completes the circuit and creates a magnetic field in the primary windings in the coil.. when the AC signal from the pick up coil drops to 0. the power transistor switches off and releases the ground connection to the negative side of the coil.. this causes the magnetic field to collapse through the secondary and create a high voltage spark.. the ac signal from the pick up coil continues to 1/2 volt negative.. then swings to 1/2 volt positive again as the reluctor tips start to line up again. turns on the transistor . as soon as they line up.. the voltage drops to 0 and the coil fires again..

testing the module.. take it off.. take it to a parts store.. they have an automatic tester for ignition modules..


testing on the car... with a digital volt meter.. unplug the pick up coil... set the digital volt meter to 2K ohms.. measure the resistance of the pick up coil usually around 980 ohms.. but anywhere between 500 and 1500 is expected..
before disconnecting.. flip the meter settings to 2 volts AC or 20 volts AC.. crank the engine.. or spin the distributer shaft.. see if you get really close to 1.0 volts.. i like to see just over 1.0 volts AC voltage...

if the pick up coil resistance measures out ok... but does not create 1.0 volts AC it won't trigger the ignition module to turn on the power transistor to charge the primary windings (complete the circuit to ground) so there will be NO spark .
the reluctor can fail..


you can.. with the distributer out.. spin the shaft with the pick up coil connected.. and the ignition coil will spark if the system works..

Read more: http://forums.moparmusclemagazine.com/70/9048145/mopar-engines/318-has-no-spark/#ixzz334YgjOxe
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fourforty.com said:
Troubleshooting

Troubleshooting an electronic ignition system is fairly simple. Once it has been determined that there is no spark, there are a few quick checks that can be performed to determine the cause. A DC volt/ohm meter can be used to check the continuity of the pick-up coil. It can be checked at the leads as they leave the distributor, or on pins 4 and 5 of the ECU connector. When measuring the resistance across the two leads of the pick-up coil you should see a 150-900 ohm reading. Always flex the wiring leading to the distributor and to the ECU while checking the resistance to be sure that there are no breaks in the wiring. You should also check for 12 volts at pin 1 of the ECU connector when the ignition is in the "on" position. It is also important that the ECU be securely bolted in place and that bolts provide a good ground to the ECU housing. The only other lead that is connected to the ECU is the "-" lead to the coil, which can be checked to insure that it is not broken.
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then, I wouldn't worry about the distributor, keep back tracking, sparks not leaving the coil, the next logical step, is it going in? you said you used a different coil, I'm assuming it was a known good one, so "spark" probably isn't going in there. when you say you checked your wires, did you just look at the connections, or was there a continuity teat involved?

*test, a continuity TEST, :angel9:
 
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