Hi guys! New member, first post! A couple of 318 in an M-body questions :)

[8v-of-fury]

I was just figuring that even if it went in 180 out you'd just have to swap the plug wires around anyhow.. It doesn't really matter where number 1 ends up right, just so long as where-ever it is there is the number one wire over it. I will do the extremely complicated thumb-over-hole compression test lol.

 

[NoCar340]

It doesn't matter from a running standpoint, but the more you cross wires the more potential problem you have with induced crossfire... plus, it makes it a pain in the ass to route the plug wires. :icon_biggrin:

 

[Jack Meoff]

X2 :glasses10:

Never makes sense to do something the wrong way.

 

[8v-of-fury]

Ok you perfectionists, i'll do it right.. lol

 

[NoCar340]

It'll only go in two ways unless you pulled the oil pump drive. If you didn't pull the wires out of the cap it'll be obvious which way is right. For some reason, I can't recall right now at what item in the engine bay the rotor would point from the factory position on an LA. I know on a B/RB engine (big block) it points at the driver's side shock stud.

 

[8v-of-fury]

DOH! That makes sense.. I didn't pull the wires from the cap, so yes.. I got this! lol

 

[72Dodge]

On a small block Mopar, the rotor will point right at the #1 cylinder... convenient and logical place to help remember!

 

[NoCar340]

Yep. Thanks for the reminder!

 

[8v-of-fury]

Hey what do you know! So it does!

 

[8v-of-fury]

So I was probing some wires waiting for my haynes to get here.. it would appear the factory wiring feeding the coil its voltage already is a resisted source. It gets 9v with the key in the running position.

Seems like I only need to grab a 12v while cranking source for power then?

Does this mean there is a stock ballast resistor somewhere inline already?

 

[8v-of-fury]

Just to be clear why I am asking is that this is an 88, so most emiisons stuff is staying seeing as how it still needs to pas emissions. Which by the way is bullshit the only reason I am even doing this is because it was getting about 5-6mpg in town and about 8-9mpg hwy... and it was a definitive rich smelling exhaust at all times. Redid the carb and a full tune up, got a little more power but was still sucking back gas like it was free water or something.. lol

The only thing gone from the system is the ecu, egr and the dizzy. I am reintalling the wiring harness to retain oil psi and water temps. If this were an 87, everything smog related would be coming off. Including all 3 cats, air pump and charcoal canister..

But since thay has to stay to make the man happy, I dont see why I cant use the factory esa "run" circuit to power the coil? The only thing I could see being a problem is that way the ecu would be seeing a 9v power supply as well as it has the "run" power supply running to one of the ecu's posts.

Just trying to minimize extra clutter and anything that may raise too much suspicion.

 

[8v-of-fury]

Upon reading the scanned article again that is exactly what they want you to do.. lol. I retested the dark blue wire and apparently I must have had a bad ground because it is definitely battery voltage.

I am going to take that 14g Dark Blue wire and it will feed the new ballast resistor its run position 12v. I also found the start 12v at the starter relay beside the brake booster. Which will obviously feed the other side of the resistor.

I tried to use my vw coil, but it has a different main coil wire than mu plug wires, so thats a no go. Ill use the stock coil for right now and probably pick up a better one this week.

Get it running first.

 

[72Dodge]

I'd suggest doing yourself a favor and getting some factory service manuals and ditch the Haynes the minute it arrives. Haynes, Chilton = pretty much junk, at least compared to the real thing. Look through a real FSM, you'll be amazed.

 

[8v-of-fury]

LoL. I have never had any issues with Chilton/Haynes manuals, would I try and heed their advice on a trans or engine rebuild? Meh, likely not.. But for wiring diagrams and figuring out stuff you've never seen before I have no issue with them.

I have the car all wired up, and I put the big ugly Thermoquad up on the intake to find out the throttle linkages are not gonna work from the 2bbl. doh' why didn't that rise my suspicion earlier? I don't know.

Anyhow, I guess there is a 4 barrel specific throttle cable bracket?

 

[Jack Meoff]

I'd suggest doing yourself a favor and getting some factory service manuals and ditch the Haynes the minute it arrives. Haynes, Chilton = pretty much junk, at least compared to the real thing. Look through a real FSM, you'll be amazed.

Absolutely.
No comparison.

 

[72Dodge]

It's not that the Haynes/Chilton's are completely useless, I mean, they are "based on fact" after all LOL. Just sayin'... the factory manuals are cheap (maybe that one's even available as a free PDF, not sure), they are definitely worth having. If you have one, you won't need Haynes/Chiltons etc, really.

 

[8v-of-fury]

LOL. There hasn't been much I needed any manual for other than torque values and wiring diagrams. Pretty much the only thing I have manuals for.

Anyone know how I can solve my 2bbl to 4bbl throttle issue? I think the trans kick down will work no problem, it is just the accelerator cable. The cars cruise does not work, so I was not going to hook that back up.

 

[NoCar340]

Yes, there is a 4V throttle bracket. There is also a 4V throttle cable. You need both. Best bet is to find a junkyard cop car or parts on eBay, etc., but they may still be available from the dealer for an AHB (cop) application with the 4V carb. The QuadraJet parts work perfectly with the ThermoQuad.

Heed 72Dodge's advice and get an FSM. The stuff you find useful in the aftermarket manuals will look ridiculous in comparison with the real deal... oh, and stop poking around trying to improve on the article. Follow it to the letter regarding the wiring and you'll have no issues. The last guy I knew that had both the article and the FSM tried to do it his way, didn't know where he screwed up, and was too far away for me to look at the car personally. After getting him to undo everything he'd done and start over, he still couldn't make it work and had obviously fried or miswired something somewhere (I still think he reversed the start & run wires at the ballast). He eventually sold the car out of frustration. Suffice to say, attempting to improve upon or streamline a proven process usually results in failure.

 

[72Dodge]

If you can't readily find the 4V throttle parts, you could get a Lokar cable. You might balk at the price (around $45, I think) at first, but depending on how hard you have to look for the factory parts (and how much you have to pay for them), it might not be that bad. Just an option.

 

[Monkeyed]

LOL. There hasn't been much I needed any manual for other than torque values and wiring diagrams. Pretty much the only thing I have manuals for.

Anyone know how I can solve my 2bbl to 4bbl throttle issue? I think the trans kick down will work no problem, it is just the accelerator cable. The cars cruise does not work, so I was not going to hook that back up.

I saw somewhere that the 2v one can be used, but it involves bending it, and isn't ideal or particularly good looking. if you don't plan on using the factory cruise, then the lokar kit seems to be the way to go. nice, neat, and easy.

the cruise on mine works, so whenever I get around to getting a replacement phenolic bowl and doing the job, I'll have to either attempt torqueing mine around, or try and score a 4v stocker somehow