It's just a fancy piece of NPT pipe and should thread out of the old one with a little heat, some beeswax and a pipe wrench. If not, you can just use a piece of black pipe threaded at the hardware store and cut to length. I believe it's 3/4" (pipe is measured by ID, not OD).
Hi guys! New member, first post! A couple of 318 in an M-body questions :)
- Thread starter 8v-of-fury
- Start date
Jack Meoff
Mopar Maniac
Just a quick note....
All permissions have been granted.
I'll have the ELB article up by tonight.....
All permissions have been granted.
I'll have the ELB article up by tonight.....
8v-of-fury
Well-Known Member
I thank everyone involved. lol.
Upon reading the article, it is in fact as simple as unplugging the harness from the computer and the coil. New wires from start and run to coil and ballast respectively. They pretty much say to leave the harness in place correct? I didn't see any mention what so ever of removing the harness or any other plugs right?
Basically it is a very basic procedure.
Upon reading the article, it is in fact as simple as unplugging the harness from the computer and the coil. New wires from start and run to coil and ballast respectively. They pretty much say to leave the harness in place correct? I didn't see any mention what so ever of removing the harness or any other plugs right?
Basically it is a very basic procedure.
It is, but it tells you exactly where to hook up to do it the right way... factory-style, if you will. It also mentions that you may want to fill in the connectors so that they don't short anything out. If you really wanted to (and I would), you could trace the wires back to their origins and un-pin them from their connectors (bulkhead, etc) and remove them entirely. It would save a lot of potential headache and make future diagnostic much simpler.
8v-of-fury
Well-Known Member
Does the factory ESA/ELB system utilize a ballast resistor before its connection to the coil? I haven't touched the wiring yet, as I was awaiting conformation on the article .
.The short answer is yes.
The longer answer would involve why it matters, since you're bypassing all that stuff anyhow. I would personally suggest tossing the OE coil if you're considering using it, and going with something better like a Mallory or Pertronix unit. The MSD Blaster 2 is a good unit if you don't mind buying from a company that's in Chapter 7 every two years and constantly changing hands, but more importantly--how many ballast resistors do you want? The Blaster 2 requires an additional one inline with the stock unit. :eusa_doh:
The longer answer would involve why it matters, since you're bypassing all that stuff anyhow. I would personally suggest tossing the OE coil if you're considering using it, and going with something better like a Mallory or Pertronix unit. The MSD Blaster 2 is a good unit if you don't mind buying from a company that's in Chapter 7 every two years and constantly changing hands, but more importantly--how many ballast resistors do you want? The Blaster 2 requires an additional one inline with the stock unit. :eusa_doh:
8v-of-fury
Well-Known Member
Another question, is this resistor looking thinga-ma-jigger in my hand in the first picture.. I am needing it all to be functioning correctly for the choke, so my question is.. does it need to ground to the intake manifold or is it simply a mount??
On the speakings of ignition coils, I was thinking of using one I have here from one of my Volkswagens.. They utilize a fairly "high powered" ignition setup on the later MPFI models. Anyhow, the coil matches everything of the blasters coil, except for probably the turn:ratio.. But it is an epoxy filled coil, so thats a plus! lol
On the speakings of ignition coils, I was thinking of using one I have here from one of my Volkswagens.. They utilize a fairly "high powered" ignition setup on the later MPFI models. Anyhow, the coil matches everything of the blasters coil, except for probably the turn:ratio.. But it is an epoxy filled coil, so thats a plus! lol
The open terminal of the "resistor looking thinga-ma-jigger" (thank you for using the engineering term :icon_biggrin: ) gets wired to 12v+ key-on.
That coil pictured requires an extra ballast resistor inline with the stock unit, which is not supplied with it. When dealing with Mopar ignition, parts for points applications are usually the correct ones. In this Chevy-flavored world, the Chrysler aficionado must figure things out for himself... which I did--by blowing up that exact-model coil. I thought, "Hey! I already have a ballast resistor! Cool!" :eusa_doh:
That coil pictured requires an extra ballast resistor inline with the stock unit, which is not supplied with it. When dealing with Mopar ignition, parts for points applications are usually the correct ones. In this Chevy-flavored world, the Chrysler aficionado must figure things out for himself... which I did--by blowing up that exact-model coil. I thought, "Hey! I already have a ballast resistor! Cool!" :eusa_doh:
8v-of-fury
Well-Known Member
What determines whether or not it needs an EXTRA resistor inline with the stock resistor?? What is the point of using a lower resistance coil if you have to resistor the hell out of its power supply? LoL. Why does the chrysler box need a ballast resistor anyhow?
Got my front water neck. Purdy purdy. 3/4 pipe, you were right. This is a little fancy though!
Got my front water neck. Purdy purdy. 3/4 pipe, you were right. This is a little fancy though!
All 12V ignition coils require a resistor. Some have the resistance built into the wire, some have it built into the coil, and Chrysler has a separate, replaceable unit. If the coil says it doesn't require any external resistor whatsoever, rest assured it's built into the coil. In the case of an aftermarket unit like the MSD, the windings are such that they saturate too much during the dwell time from a stock ignition, so lowering the input voltage slows down the saturation time. It does not affect coil output whatsoever as the spark is generated solely by inductance strength and triggered by the collapse of the field induced in the primary winding. Short of a scientific explanation of how inductance works between two coils, suffice to say dwell time, even though measured in milliseconds, is far too long at 12V for most replacement coils... so they lower it to 8 or less.
8v-of-fury
Well-Known Member
Totally makes sense, never looked in to it before.. Thank-you for the explanation. So what if you resistor an already resistored coil? Why do you say to not use the stock one? Just cause it is a weak coil?? I think I will either use the VW one, or the big yellow accel one . We will see..
. We will see..I just like using a higher-output coil. There's no such thing as "too much spark". I have a Mallory that looks like a stocker except for the chrome finish. I also have black spray paint. :icon_biggrin: Always keep 'em guessing... even though the car will probably only run a grand total of about an hour with the stock-type coil.
8v-of-fury
Well-Known Member
LOL. why will the car only run an hour with the stock coil?! You speaking in code? lol
No, no code. :icon_biggrin: The car's going multi-port fuel injection, distributorless ignition, and getting a pair of KKR480 turbochargers. I'm going to break in the shortblock with a ThermoQuad & standard distributor ignition. Maybe I'll get some miles on it that way, maybe not, but then tearing down to the fresh longblock and starting the swap. I have a thread regarding the parts I'm using over in the Fuel & ignition area of the forums.
Regardless, after the swap starts I'll have a whole bunch of standard-issue parts to sell, including the carb, '71 340 intake, dual-pickup vacuum-advance distributor, and a B&M balanced flexplate for the 360/A904 since the automatic is going away too.
Regardless, after the swap starts I'll have a whole bunch of standard-issue parts to sell, including the carb, '71 340 intake, dual-pickup vacuum-advance distributor, and a B&M balanced flexplate for the 360/A904 since the automatic is going away too.
8v-of-fury
Well-Known Member
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
Sorry for the quick hijack here, but I'm highly interested in reading about using the KKR480 turbos, but cannot find the thread you're referring to. I've searched turbo, KKR440, all threads started by you... just not seeing it. Link? Thanks.
I found information and interest in them, strangely, on Aussie sites. Apparently they're popular for RB25DET/RB30ET engines. They're Chinese knockoffs, somewhat similar to a couple of Garretts I was researching... but I was looking to go cheap on the first go-round. I'll probably end up with GT2871Rs or similar in final format, based on what I find regarding manifold backpressure, lag, etc. I won't really know until I get these working and have a baseline.
KKR480 specs are as follows:
Turbine Inlet: T3 Size Flange
Turbine Outlet: 79mm V-band
Comp. Housing AR: A/R.50
Compressor Inlet: 69mm
Compressor Outlet: 50mm
Turbine Wheel: 56mm-73mm Trim:59
Comp. Wheel: 53mm-76.5mm Trim:48
Bearing Housing: TB28
Water and oil cooled
Thrust Bearing:360
Wastegate: Internal/10psi-16psi
The pair of 'em cost me less than $400, so for layout and initial blow-up... er, configuration purposes they were just the ticket.
KKR480 specs are as follows:
Turbine Inlet: T3 Size Flange
Turbine Outlet: 79mm V-band
Comp. Housing AR: A/R.50
Compressor Inlet: 69mm
Compressor Outlet: 50mm
Turbine Wheel: 56mm-73mm Trim:59
Comp. Wheel: 53mm-76.5mm Trim:48
Bearing Housing: TB28
Water and oil cooled
Thrust Bearing:360
Wastegate: Internal/10psi-16psi
The pair of 'em cost me less than $400, so for layout and initial blow-up... er, configuration purposes they were just the ticket.
8v-of-fury
Well-Known Member
TDC mark???
8v-of-fury
Well-Known Member
I don't see any other marks on the crank, so I will assume this cut mark IS the TDC mark. Now I guess I have to figure whether I am at #1 TDC on compression or exhaust right.. Sorry, I am not mechanically inept.. Just I am an OHC guy, not OHV lol.
I foolishly pulled the dizzy without first checking which way the rotor was pointing.
I foolishly pulled the dizzy without first checking which way the rotor was pointing.
It's easily enough solved. Have a buddy bump the engine over with the key while the #1 plug is out. Hold your thumb over the plug hole while doing this. When you feel pressure against your thumb, you're coming up on the compression stroke. Hand-crank the engine the rest of the way via the dampener bolt until your timing mark is at zero. The distributor will only go in two ways: correct, and 180° out. It should be pointing towards the front half of the rotation, I think towards the driver's side inner fender. When you wire the cap, make sure the #1 wire is on the terminal directly above the rotor tip. Firing order is clockwise, 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2, driver's side being 1-7 odd and passenger's being even, 2-8 front to rear. It will start and run this way; then you just need to dial in your timing.
