K I am wanting to buy a newer used vehicle for a more modern engine/trans swap into my 79 volare' duster/roadrunner.

Mikes5thAve

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Not surprising. You might as well try fantomworks too. At least they're used to doing custom work like that. Altho that's a great distance away.
 

armataz

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Not surprising. You might as well try fantomworks too. At least they're used to doing custom work like that. Altho that's a great distance away.
GYC use to be 3 blocks from where I live welby;s is still there. but GYC is in the mill district a mile away now. I just wanted them to do an estimate... but as I said. they wouldnt evn look at it.
 

Camtron

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Well that’s a shame. There’s definitely not a lot of aftermarket support but, there’s enough to make these cars fun. Like most Mopar guys and particularly TV shows, they’re only gonna have interest in ‘60s and early ‘70s because that’s where the money is. What’s crazy is that, most of these shows don’t seem to realize most people don’t have the money to build a ‘60s-‘70s Mopar and a whole lot of people are starting to turn to mid ‘70s Dusters in droves and more and more guys are starting to buying Aspens, Volares, Magnums, Cordobas,ect…and the interest for “budget builds” is there but just gets dismissed for whatever reason by television producers; probably because most of them have only ever heard “cuda, super bee, Daytona” and couldn’t name another Mopar.
 

armataz

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Well that’s a shame. There’s definitely not a lot of aftermarket support but, there’s enough to make these cars fun. Like most Mopar guys and particularly TV shows, they’re only gonna have interest in ‘60s and early ‘70s because that’s where the money is. What’s crazy is that, most of these shows don’t seem to realize most people don’t have the money to build a ‘60s-‘70s Mopar and a whole lot of people are starting to turn to mid ‘70s Dusters in droves and more and more guys are starting to buying Aspens, Volares, Magnums, Cordobas,ect…and the interest for “budget builds” is there but just gets dismissed for whatever reason by television producers; probably because most of them have only ever heard “cuda, super bee, Daytona” and couldn’t name another Mopar.
yah, but considering their builds are usually between 40 and 90 K . I can see why they would not want to build a non numbers volare.
maybe if mine was true kit car, they might change their minds. but it aint.
I just got in a 73-76 360 air scoop for it.
so it will atleast complete the look. until I can get it to a shop.
and the scoops all ready white. LOL
kinda disapointed that it did not come with a template for drilling the hood. but I can make one of those and I will be opening the hood so it can breath. it wont just be for looks. ;-)
 

armataz

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Well that’s a shame. There’s definitely not a lot of aftermarket support but, there’s enough to make these cars fun. Like most Mopar guys and particularly TV shows, they’re only gonna have interest in ‘60s and early ‘70s because that’s where the money is. What’s crazy is that, most of these shows don’t seem to realize most people don’t have the money to build a ‘60s-‘70s Mopar and a whole lot of people are starting to turn to mid ‘70s Dusters in droves and more and more guys are starting to buying Aspens, Volares, Magnums, Cordobas,ect…and the interest for “budget builds” is there but just gets dismissed for whatever reason by television producers; probably because most of them have only ever heard “cuda, super bee, Daytona” and couldn’t name another Mopar.
by the way, regarding TV show preferences.
that is why I like counts customs.
danny likes cars from the disco Erra. and enjoys customizing them.
he's even taken in a few cars from the 80's to do on his show.
same with over haulin' and pimp my ride.
shows like that, encouraged me to try doing some things my self.
but thats a diffrent project
 

Mikes5thAve

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Even if they were willing to do it those places would probably probably charge something like 15 grand for it.
 

armataz

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Even if they were willing to do it those places would probably probably charge something like 15 grand for it.
over haulin and pimp my ride did them for free.
they were game show type car shows, where you submit your car for consideration.
and if chosen they built them. then give them back to you.
for Kounts Kustoms.. 15 K would be light. but you would get a kick AZZ custom paint job and all the rust removed and patched properly. along with the power plant upgrade. it would basically be a brand new resto mod car.
but spinning back to the original topic... I know I cant afford that kinda shop work. thats why I'm here looking for advice on how I can upgrade on the cheap LOL ;-)
getting information on what I should look for, and what to avoid.
 
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Mikes5thAve

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I was referring to shops like kounts kustoma and graveyard cars. Overhaulin and pimp might have been free but were hack jobs that matched the price. Altho sometimes interesting to see what they were going to do.
 

armataz

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I was referring to shops like kounts kustoma and graveyard cars. Overhaulin and pimp might have been free but were hack jobs that matched the price. Altho sometimes interesting to see what they were going to do.
I think chip, put more of a quality control into his shows cars. they were largely sponsored charity projects.
pimp were slapped together for the show.
and stuff like body kits, and fiberglass/bondo patches were shown some times weeks later popping loose., and paint pealing back to original color,just painted over.
 

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My project is similar to what the original poster is considering.
I chose a 1995 Dodge Ram 1500, 2wd, 5.9 Magnum. My reasoning for this choice was that the Magnum engine was a very close bolt in. The magnum engines have the same style mounting bosses as the LA engines although the LA style mounting brackets will be needed. There was no need to change K frames, because the original car was a V8. I chose the 1995 because it is OBD1 and has a simpler computer and wiring. Also the emissions controls are simpler. The engine, and A518 trans were used along with the truck wiring harness and evaporate emissions control parts.
The ram 1500 engine was different from the 2500 and 3500 with regard to emissions and other factors.
The 518 fit with no floor pan modifications, but a custom crossmember and under car adjustments were needed. This has been detailed by others on the forum.
A fuel pump from a early 90s chevrolet and a filter / pressure regulator from a modern corvette was used to make the fuel system. A return was added to the tank.
Another known weakness of the Magnum engine is the intake manifold underside cover. The gasket is subject to failure, which causes excessive oil use and poor running. It can be fixed with an improved cover and gasket from Hughes engines.
An electric fan or reverse rotation fan will be needed as the truck fan is HUGE.
The air intake and filter will need to be custom. My plan is to use an intake from a jeep grand cherokee.
My suggestions for donor vehicles are:
1993 to 1995 Dakota, ram trucks or vans, and jeep grand cherokee. All would need the Magnum V8.
 

Duke5A

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The 518 fit with no floor pan modifications, but a custom crossmember and under car adjustments were needed. This has been detailed by others on the forum.

How did you elect to do your cross member? I used box tube, but I've seen others use rolled flat stock.
 

LSM360

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K to summerize (if I understand correctly) so stay with 91-96 either the 318 or 360 magnum.
the 360 will give a few more horse out the box.
but both are decent engines once you swap the heads
both have a carb type feul injection system. not port injection.
and I may have to swap the rear gear box.
and also shorten the drive line.
for my ammusment, is the 3 speed w/automatic overdrive transmitions of this period crap. or what?
asking because I dont understand the push to the auto 4 and 5 speeds, over the 3. thanks
I wouldn't say "expect" to have to change the heads. Yes some cracked but these were in 100's of thousands of trucks without cracking heads. I had several crate Magnum 360's without issue. I'd run one and IF you experienced an issue then replace heads.
 

71Newp

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It looks like you missed out on the 1987 Diplomat. That (or any car with a 1987 or newer 318) would have been a good and easier/cheaper way to go. You would get a "better" engine (it would come with a roller cam and higher compression which means more power, although not as much power as you get with a Magnum) and the transmission you need. Others can correct me if I am wrong, but I think you would also get the radiator, Y-pipe (the part of the exhaust that connects to the exhaust manifolds) and rear differential that you need. Good luck!
 

armataz

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It looks like you missed out on the 1987 Diplomat. That (or any car with a 1987 or newer 318) would have been a good and easier/cheaper way to go. You would get a "better" engine (it would come with a roller cam and higher compression which means more power, although not as much power as you get with a Magnum) and the transmission you need. Others can correct me if I am wrong, but I think you would also get the radiator, Y-pipe (the part of the exhaust that connects to the exhaust manifolds) and rear differential that you need. Good luck!
yah,, I may have jumped the gun a little, as the info I am gathering, is bearing out.but at least I have a better idea of what my options are. I have some time to shop around, possibly find something from the coast with a rotten body, but good running gear I can use . I'll save some money up in the mean time, maybe talk with some of dirt track guy's see if I can pick their brains about any back yard parts cars I might be able to rob.who knows what might be gathering rust out in the pasture behind the shops.
thanks again for the info and advice.
 

Magnum Aspen

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How did you elect to do your cross member? I used box tube, but I've seen others use rolled flat stock.

Transmission crossmember was made of rectangular tubing and connected to the factory bolt holes.
Floorpan stiffer was replaced with curved flat bar. A non mopar trans mount was used. See pics.

20230201_163309.jpg


20230201_163109.jpg
 

Mikes5thAve

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I thought people doing this in the past usually modified the floor a bit or else the transmission was angled a bit lower then with 727/904?
It's interesting to read the other parts you were using for fuel etc.
 

armataz

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Transmission crossmember was made of rectangular tubing and connected to the factory bolt holes.
Floorpan stiffer was replaced with curved flat bar. A non mopar trans mount was used. See pics.

View attachment 49080

View attachment 49081
how does this effect ground clearance, like for speed bumps and such?? this info is kinda beyond my scope... but others may find your work arounds and fixes to make it work helpful.
and I still find the enginuity interesting
 

Duke5A

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how does this effect ground clearance, like for speed bumps and such?? this info is kinda beyond my scope... but others may find your work arounds and fixes to make it work helpful.
and I still find the enginuity interesting

It doesn't. The skid plate on the engine cradle is the lowest portion of the car. You would have to do something really screwballs for this swap to change ground clearance.
 

armataz

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just to toss another monkey on the wrench. I was digging through my junk parts, and found a street performer intake manifold, I picked up for the 318 volare wagon I had. but never got the time to install it. I know I said I wanted a newer injected set up. but if I find an older fix first. would it fit the 80's 360 as well?
 

Duke5A

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just to toss another monkey on the wrench. I was digging through my junk parts, and found a street performer intake manifold, I picked up for the 318 volare wagon I had. but never got the time to install it. I know I said I wanted a newer injected set up. but if I find an older fix first. would it fit the 80's 360 as well?

Yes, it would. There are two intake port sizes on the small blocks. The 273/318 motors had the small one and the 340/360 motors had the larger. The Performer manifold has the small runners and the Performer RPM has the bigger. All small block heads and intakes are interchangeable though. Don't worry about that. The Edelbrock manifold you have works great for a stockish 360 and will save you 20lbs of the nose of the car.

Another plus of the Performer manifold is you can use factory A/C compressor mounts if you have A/C on the car. The Performer RPM doesn't work with factory A/C because the water inlet is in a slightly different location.
 
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