Solid Pucks

[Justwondering]

Pardon my ignorance...
where does this puck go and what does it do?

 

[BudW]

Pardon my ignorance...
where does this puck go and what does it do?

I don’t like to use the term "pucks" – but when looking at the factory (ie: rubber) one, they do look like a hockey puck.
They are listed on page below as “insulator”.

Edit: I called the part “insulator” – but diagram calls it “isolator”.

Note: the purpose is to reduce NVH (Noise Vibration and harshness) to passengers.
The problem is people who drive cars harder than usual (like myself), on a hard turn, the K-frame starts to turn, and a few moments later, the rest of the car does (if that makes any sense) from the play from the rubber isolators.

Mopar came out with replacement isolators made of cast iron, for police and others interested in performance – but none came from factory that way (that I know of).
The aluminum ones are fairly heavy – so cast iron ones must feel like bolting an anchor on the front of the car.

 

[BudW]

The Firm Feel Inc. (FFI) mounts that I have, the specifications are:
Bolt 2-15/16” by 5/8” bolts (course thread), grade 8.
Washer ¼” thick by 2-½” diameter, 23/32” hole (not quite ¾”), hardened.

Front mount (the smaller one)
3-11/32” long (frame rail side)
3-1/8” long (K-frame side)
2-53/32” wide (frame rail side)
2-5/8” wide (K-frame side) (note: there is a slight taper – bigger on top)
1-½” tall (overall)
5/32” step (to K-frame)
1-11/32” from step to top (doesn’t add up – but what I measured)
1-31/32” long (K-frame hole – almost 2”)
1-½“ wide (K-frame hole)
1/32” deep gulley (I think the gulley is the most important measurement here, IMO)

Rear mount
3-31/32” long (frame rail side – almost 4”)
3-13/16” long (K-frame side)
3-½” wide (frame rail side)
3-9/32” wide (K-frame side)
1-½” tall (overall)
1/8” step (to K-frame)
1-5/16” from step to top (again, doesn’t add up – but what I measured)
1-15/16” long (K-frame hole)
1-31/64” wide (K-frame hole = almost 1½”)
1/32” deep gulley

The measuring instrument used.

 

[Shorty Thompson]

Are they solid aluminum? I can see if I can get a hold of the girl whos dad works at the welding shop and see what he can do. Alternatively, the guy I took my heads to last, thats a machine shop..he does everything there. He may be able to do them. If they can, ill get a quote and pass it along

That would be great ! Otherwise I'm after it on my lonsome .

 

[Shorty Thompson]

View attachment 17337 View attachment 17338

The Firm Feel Inc. (FFI) mounts that I have, the specifications are:
Bolt 2-15/16” by 5/8” bolts (course thread), grade 8.
Washer ¼” thick by 2-½” diameter, 23/32” hole (not quite ¾”), hardened.

Front mount (the smaller one)
3-11/32” long (frame rail side)
3-1/8” long (K-frame side)
2-53/32” wide (frame rail side)
2-5/8” wide (K-frame side) (note: there is a slight taper – bigger on top)
1-½” tall (overall)
5/32” step (to K-frame)
1-11/32” from step to top (doesn’t add up – but what I measured)
1-31/32” long (K-frame hole – almost 2”)
1-½“ wide (K-frame hole)
1/32” deep gulley (I think the gulley is the most important measurement here, IMO)
View attachment 17339
Rear mount
3-31/32” long (frame rail side – almost 4”)
3-13/16” long (K-frame side)
3-½” wide (frame rail side)
3-9/32” wide (K-frame side)
1-½” tall (overall)
1/8” step (to K-frame)
1-5/16” from step to top (again, doesn’t add up – but what I measured)
1-15/16” long (K-frame hole)
1-31/64” wide (K-frame hole = almost 1½”)
1/32” deep gulley

View attachment 17340
The measuring instrument used.

Those is some b,,,,,,ad boys . I know I'ma get some , or make some .

 

[BudW]

I haven’t done much in metal fabrication – so can’t answer specific questions or details.

They appear to be easy to make if one can get hands on some stock first. The only exception is making them fit the K-frame ovals and/or the gullies by the K-frame ovals.
That part looks like a bit more fabrication that I have patience to manhandle.

 

[MiradaMegacab]

Simply reuse the metal from the stock insulators. Drill and tap aluminum bar stock and mount the stock metal k frame locators to the aluminum.....

 

[Aspen500]

I had the old cast iron (actually they were cast steel) Direct Connection ones on my car for a long time. They did have some heft to them, lol. Remember buying them when they were discontinued and on a steep discount. I think the kit, including the bolts and washers was something like $30. Would have been around 1987 when I bought the Aspen. Got the isolators for the '78 Cordoba I had at the time but ended up using them in the Aspen instead.
They still exist and know who has them (another member of this site) so, they do live on. Got the poly ones in my car now because I wanted a little isolation from noise and vibration. Yep, getting old(er)

 

[BudW]

I was trying to find the poly ones (after my last post) and hadn’t found them . . . yet.

 

[Bruceynz]

I have done mine with FF ones, pig of a job really! Can't quite remember now you need to let the top control are go as you can't get enough clearance to get the old pucks out! Well worth it though, I did those and in the rear put urethane spring pads in. While I was at it I put a heavy feel steering gear in and FF UCAs all one go so I can't give blow by blow improvements just that it makes a big difference!

 

[Shorty Thompson]

Simply reuse the metal from the stock insulators. Drill and tap aluminum bar stock and mount the stock metal k frame locators to the aluminum.....

Forgot about the large washers that were in there

 

[Greg55_99]

I'd like to hear what the ride is like when using the solid pucks. Noise and vibration issues through the steering wheel?

 

[Aspen500]

I got my poly "pucks" from ESPO Springs n Things.
The solid mounts do transmit vibration through the steering column and chassis somewhat. It all depends on what you're after. Solid is best for handling but the poly ones are not really that soft. I doubt the k-frame moves at all with them ut, they're just soft enough to dampen vibration.

 

[Darter6]

Well,I looked at Summit and they don't list the F body.Shows Prothane body mount bushings 4-101-BL for the K to body for B bodies.Hummm,,

 

[BudW]

I’ve heard the B-body mounts are the same as FMJ ones are. Also read the Mopar cast iron (or steel) kit fit both B and FMJ bodies,

Firm Feel’s website show the same part number for B and FMJ bodies.

 

[80mirada]

They are the same, B/R and F/M/J Body. They are just reversed where them go on the K-Member. I have Billet pucks that CudaZappa made, they were his first set he made.....damn I need to get that car on the road.

 

[Justwondering]

How do you know you need new isolators?
When I lay on my cardboard and look under the car should I be able to tell or is it something you feel when you drive?

 

[Mr C]

How do you know you need new isolators?
When I lay on my cardboard and look under the car should I be able to tell or is it something you feel when you drive?

If the rubber is cracked...best visual inspection available to you. You probably don't need this. This is a performance upgrade to stiffen the connections to the body and thus aid handling. Not required for a stock daily driver (like my car).

 

[BudW]

The rubber used is relatively soft – mainly to reduce NVH (Noise Vibration Harshness). Even if cracked – it won’t matter for 95% (I guessed at that percentage) of the FMJ’s being driven. Just as long as the rubber is so gone it is riding metal on metal.

Now if plan on driving the car hard (ie: racing) then this could be a recommended upgrade. I can feel the difference when driving hard.
For the other 95% of the people, they will prefer the comfy ride the isolators provide.

 

[Darter6]

You can tell if your car feels like it has 4 wheel steering !!