The Rescue of a 1984 Plymouth Fury

Projects & Restorations

  1. Coronet 14

    Coronet 14 Active Member

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    Thanks Any idea on the other red wire
     
  2. Coronet 14

    Coronet 14 Active Member

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    Got the power 12 volt and 12 volt keyed working now. Looks like the front speakers are NFG. I took the Glove Box out and disconnected the plug to the speaker and hooked the speaker wires from the Radio I purchased and no sound. Do I have to remove the whole dash piece to remove the large speaker cover?
     
  3. XfbodyX

    XfbodyX Well-Known Member

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    This is cool, better then some resto posts. I miss the days of getting them from the field or yard, do the basics and drive.
     
  4. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, but it really isn't that bad. Four screws by the defrost vents up top and a number behind the instrument panel cover with a few more down low under the glove box. The glove box and dash pad come out as one piece. Just be sure to toss a rag over the defrost vents before trying to remove those screws. You'll probably need a 1/4" universal or maybe even a flex socket to get those top fasteners - anything else hits the windshield.
     
  5. Coronet 14

    Coronet 14 Active Member

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    Got the Dash apart. Front speakers are junk. The heater A/C control unit is broken. The switch side is all broke and not attached to the unit. Will have to find a better one. I would like to replace the instrument panel plastic bezel also. So if anyone has these for sale let me know

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  6. Darth-Car

    Darth-Car Well-Known Member

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    Your big problem with the small speakers in the dash is that the factory speakers are just a one way speaker. Everything I found out in the market that is that size is a two way, and the tweeter cone sticks up above the side of the speaker. You don't have a lot of clearance between the top of the dash and the mounting ring of the speaker. I finally found a a pair of speakers with a low enough profile tweeter that I could make fit below the dash plate. I ended up creating some foam shims to go around the speakers, and hold the dash plate up higher over the speaker itself to give the tweeter cone room to move.
     
  7. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    Rockford Fostgate used to sell a 2.5" that would fit under the dash. I have a pair in my car. Be sure to run low pass filters on them if you have a decent stereo.
     
  8. Coronet 14

    Coronet 14 Active Member

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    Will the Heater A/C controls and the plastic instrument cluster cover from a 1986 Chrysler fifth Avenue work for my 1984 Plymouth Gran Fury?
     
  9. 89.Fifth

    89.Fifth Well-Known Member

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    Yes
     
  10. Coronet 14

    Coronet 14 Active Member

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    The car has an after market plastic radiator. It leaks around the filler neck where it mounts to the base of the radiator. Did the original OEM ones have metal tanks top and bottom?
     
  11. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    Yes they did, but replacement radiator quality is hit or miss. You might have better luck finding something in Champion Radiator's catalog that fits. Last I looked most of their offerings were about $200 a piece.
     
  12. Coronet 14

    Coronet 14 Active Member

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    I found the factory rear speaker wiring harness. Speakers are supposed to be here tomorrow. The taillight wiring harness is a mess. It is much worse than the pictures show Will have to find a non molested one.

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  13. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    House wiring electrical nuts? Wow... This is an onion alright. Yeah, find an entire harness and splice it in further up in the car.
     
  14. Oldiron440

    Oldiron440 Well-Known Member

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    The rear harness should just be a plug in deal for the tail lights. Follow the wires up the Lt quarter panel I think there's a plug in there.
     
  15. MoparDan

    MoparDan Well-Known Member

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    A little late here, when you replace the front speakers you'll probably need to make holes bigger because the magnets on aftermarket speakers are ALOT bigger then the stock ones are. You'll need a good pare of tin snips, the passenger side hole is easy enough with the glove box removed, but the drivers side...the driver's side takes ALOT of patience with all the stuff in the way...but its worth it once its done, I also had to put electrical tape around the speaker holes because the metal dashboard grounded the speakers out, also couldn't used screws on the front or rears for the same reason, but they stay in place fine. Another thing I remember is that on the back the speakers wouldn't clear the rear deck cover so I used a few soda bottle caps to raise the cover alittle bit and its worked fine. I've got Infinity Reference speakers: 3.5" in front and 5x7" out back and they sound great
     
  16. MoparDan

    MoparDan Well-Known Member

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    I know this is really late, but if your interested F4L3 is the interior code on your fender tag, F4 indicates vinyl seats, L indicates the color: Beige, 3 indicates the color shade: light (1 is the lightest 9 is the darkest)
     
  17. Coronet 14

    Coronet 14 Active Member

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    It looks like I have a light Beige interior. I started cleaning the windows and had to use a razor blade to scrape the inside of the windows as I cleaned the driver side door windows. Heavy smoker had this car at sometime in it's life
     
  18. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    I really admire the lengths you're going to save this car. Others would never have taken it on. Takes lots of before and after photos.
     
  19. Coronet 14

    Coronet 14 Active Member

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    Disassembled cleaned and detailed the speedometer and fuel gauge cluster. Put new foam on the cluster housing I even painted the odometer rod. I did my best on the clear plastic but It is still not perfectly clear.

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  20. Coronet 14

    Coronet 14 Active Member

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    I would like to thank Murray B Park for the Heater A/C control unit and the cluster cover and the plastic mounting assembly.

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