this is what i'm busy with

Working on these engines makes me miss my car that much more lol

Spring can’t come soon enough

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I know how you feel. Modoba has been on hold till I finish my house debacle we bought 2.5 years ago.
 
WOW! That's loaded for Bear! Gonna be interesting to see and hear how it runs. Good Luck
 
Since the 416” ready for the run stand, I will have time to work on the aluminum 414”. If all goes well, I should have the short block finished this weekend.
The 416” is headed to the dyno after I run it on the stand to check everything over.
 
As I mentioned, nothing goes according to plan. Not much time yesterday for the 414. I went and helped my son in law get his super comp dragster ready for this season.

I managed to get the main bearing clearances measured. All good at .002”.
I did the final hone so now it’s ready for pistons.
The crank is in place for the final time.

New Fowler rods will get slid into the pistons this morning. Won’t have much time today.

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Rings are filed, new rod bearings. All that’s left is to check rod bearing clearances. Should have pistons in the block tomorrow

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M_Body_Coupe said:
So top and 2nd rings gapped the same?...I take it you do not subscribe to the '2nd ring wider than the top' theory?

If so, why not?
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yes top and 2nd ring gaps the same. i follow the instructions from Total Seal. bore x .0045'' for both top and 2nd. in my case that's 4.125'' x .0045''= .0185''. i went .019'' just to be on the safe side of things. better to be a bit more gap then not enough gap.

i don't get caught up in all the new ''over thinking and trying to reinvent the wheel'' approach to engine building. i've done this for so many years this way and it's always worked so i don't see the need to change. i highly doubt the is any performance gain from having the 2nd ring .002'' bigger. i tend to ''keep it simple since it works'' in the way i do things.
 
Like the 25 different ways they have now for putting rear main seals in now so they "won't leak" The web made the abundance of theories and Uncle Jim knowledge a bit overwhelming. Just do what works and ignore the rest
 
Ele115 said:
Like the 25 different ways they have now for putting rear main seals in now so they "won't leak" The web made the abundance of theories and Uncle Jim knowledge a bit overwhelming. Just do what works and ignore the rest
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exactly. the world has become ''overthinkers''. i like the keep it simple
 
Don't get me wrong, I'm not passing any judgment, rather looking to learn about the considerations that folks who are building engines are taking into account.

I tossed Mahle piston & ring set into my stroker build. Their recommendation was 0.0045" for top and 0.005" for the 2nd.

This is largely based on research by other companies like SealedPower for example who found that the larger 2nd ring gap provided the needed escape path for blow-by gasses that got through the top ring. Otherwise the trapped gas would tend to unseat the top ring, which in turn would cause the cylinder to lose pressure since the top ring would no longer seal squarely against the bore.

Hey...theory they say, these two companies happen to run with that idea, so long as you are running NA setup. The same ring gap spec holds though for NOx and turbo/super-charged applications.
 
.0045'' top gap? and only .005'' for 2nd? bore size X the .0045'' and .005''?

bore X .0045'' for top and 2nd ring gap with no boost or nos is what total seal recommends.
 
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