Blackbirdsrt78
Well-Known Member
So does this mean you are getting ready to add the drivetrain? get that thing on the road man!!
:iroc:
:iroc:
Heavy Metal Hell raiser
- Thread starter greymouser7
- Start date
NOW, I can set my shifter to centered! No more theft proofing the shifter, but I can live with that too!!!
ccasion18:
greymouser7
Well-Known Member
I took some cylinder heads last week to the machine shop. They found a crack connecting the intake and exhaust valve on one head.
Talked to Brian Halfiger at IMM engines. I have ONE LA-X Indy iron head ( a small block mopar iron head with the LA rocker shafts and a closed combustion chamber {can actually develop quench without funky dome pistons} )
$875 for parts and assembly and $330 for the second head, so $1200 bucks. He wanted to sell me a stroker kit. I can do better than $1800 for a cast crank, stroker rotating assembly, including shipping a few times.
I did not ask him if that was beehive valve springs (which is listed on his website.) included in the installation.
It's allot of money, but the heads can be used again. An interesting note is that he did not install hardened valve seats, which I thought was standard-must be an aluminum head thing. The later model camshafts can really slam the valves back into the heads according to some on the web.
Harbor Freight has come out with a new higher end chinese paint spray gun. Rich and i used a $9.99 spray gun from them for his epoxy primer. It lists for $47.99 now. the newer gun was 59.99 without military discount (10%)
Item number 68843 lists as:
15 cfm @ 40 psi, requiring a 30 gallon compressor for continuous spray (people use regulators for higher psi compressors & oil/moisture removers, etc.) 1.4mm tip ( i think it is interchangeable), requiring a 3/8 hose, 20oz paint funnel top, and 60mm circular spray pattern.
I would show pics, but topify is not working.
Talked to Brian Halfiger at IMM engines. I have ONE LA-X Indy iron head ( a small block mopar iron head with the LA rocker shafts and a closed combustion chamber {can actually develop quench without funky dome pistons} )
$875 for parts and assembly and $330 for the second head, so $1200 bucks. He wanted to sell me a stroker kit. I can do better than $1800 for a cast crank, stroker rotating assembly, including shipping a few times.
I did not ask him if that was beehive valve springs (which is listed on his website.) included in the installation.
It's allot of money, but the heads can be used again. An interesting note is that he did not install hardened valve seats, which I thought was standard-must be an aluminum head thing. The later model camshafts can really slam the valves back into the heads according to some on the web.
Harbor Freight has come out with a new higher end chinese paint spray gun. Rich and i used a $9.99 spray gun from them for his epoxy primer. It lists for $47.99 now. the newer gun was 59.99 without military discount (10%)
Item number 68843 lists as:
15 cfm @ 40 psi, requiring a 30 gallon compressor for continuous spray (people use regulators for higher psi compressors & oil/moisture removers, etc.) 1.4mm tip ( i think it is interchangeable), requiring a 3/8 hose, 20oz paint funnel top, and 60mm circular spray pattern.
I would show pics, but topify is not working.
Jack Meoff
Mopar Maniac
Just post them the regular way.
Blackbirdsrt78
Well-Known Member
John for that money you should get the edelbrock top kit and be done with it. and if they didn't install hardened valve seats you are going to ruin your valve train with out lead substitute. My advice is sell the heads you have. and get a good set from summit or jegs.
Last edited:
greymouser7
Well-Known Member
I just looked at summit, jegs, and google and did not see a SBM edelbrock top end kit. I remember them from the past. I remember them being about $2XXX something dollars, jegs has the big block top end kit for under 2.3K, and most of their other top end kits at summit start at 2000 and go past 3000. Edelbrock doesn't even list it on their own website. A decade late, and a grand short.
Everyone at FABO's small block thread claim that edelbrock heads need machining, and lots of it-not bolt on performance. Valve guides re machined, valve seats re machined, valve springs replaced, the heads milled, ports cleaned up...
Since we are such a small market ( a theme song for FMJ guys) Edelbrock does not care about quality control anymore (for SBM), not just that, they have quit pursuing their second generation of a SBM cylinder head which would have competed with INDY cylinder head with W2/Batten/INDY/W5 enhancements in a SBM aluminum head. SBM fans are not enough in number to consider profitable. Big block Mopar will eventually follow. long live fiat-not
another option is to go with a magnum top end or LKQ used magnum motor
Last edited:
kkritsilas
Well-Known Member
You may want to look at the EngineQuest cast iron heads. All (more, actually) of the flow of the Magnum heads, without the cracking issues. From what I know, come with the hardened valve seats, and for 1.92" intakes right out of the box. Also available with LA type (angled) intake manifold boot pattern. Should be <$1.5K assembled for a pair. You will need new pushrods and head bolts/studs.
Kostas
Kostas
greymouser7
Well-Known Member
Don't give up on me. I finally got a bunch of stuff out of pawn ($ for towing my car from Rich's), I just bought a HURST shifter (& it looks good!they run for more $285) for $39!!!, and a complete set of black seat belts for the aspen build.
I accidentally bought a couple of slant six distributor reluctors- Rich you can have one at the cost of shipping, Capt, you too if you want-other wise if these guys don't want them, i'll sell them to someone (NOT for RESALE) for $1 plus shipping.
I now have stainless 2.02" & 1.6" valves. the 2.02's cost me $80 & the 1.6's cost me $69. 3/8 stem I have 1.6 stainless roller rockers, & I think i have good (not sure if hardened????) rocker shafts so I am inching along on a shoe string budget.
i have coordinated two seamstress guys to help reupholster the two bucket seats for the car.
I keep bouncing back and forth over urethane paint and the cheap lacquer that's available. it will depend on the orders that I go for in two weeks. please pray for me that i can stay here with my home and family vice being sent the north west. we don't have credit anymore if we move to buy a home, and it is more expensive cost of living...my goal is a ssgn sub hear in kings bay for my last tour
i swear on 72 virgins & the fastest budha that i will make you guys proud, eventually
I accidentally bought a couple of slant six distributor reluctors- Rich you can have one at the cost of shipping, Capt, you too if you want-other wise if these guys don't want them, i'll sell them to someone (NOT for RESALE) for $1 plus shipping.
I now have stainless 2.02" & 1.6" valves. the 2.02's cost me $80 & the 1.6's cost me $69. 3/8 stem I have 1.6 stainless roller rockers, & I think i have good (not sure if hardened????) rocker shafts so I am inching along on a shoe string budget.
i have coordinated two seamstress guys to help reupholster the two bucket seats for the car.
I keep bouncing back and forth over urethane paint and the cheap lacquer that's available. it will depend on the orders that I go for in two weeks. please pray for me that i can stay here with my home and family vice being sent the north west. we don't have credit anymore if we move to buy a home, and it is more expensive cost of living...my goal is a ssgn sub hear in kings bay for my last tour
i swear on 72 virgins & the fastest budha that i will make you guys proud, eventually
Last edited:
Jack Meoff
Mopar Maniac
I've never doubted you.
Life happens....these things take time.
If you get no takers on the reluctor send me a PM. :happy1:
Life happens....these things take time.
If you get no takers on the reluctor send me a PM. :happy1:
You already made everyone proud!
greymouser7
Well-Known Member
Hog ring pliers - they sell them at Lowes or Home Depot department store BY THE CHAIN LINK FENCE STUFF, about ten bucks.
I bought two of them and three boxes of hog rings in order to reupholster my seats.
I went to some lady fabric store called Jo-Anns where black, Marine-Vinyl fabric was listed at 25 bucks a yard.-TOO MUCH for this guy!
I went to another store and found it for $9 a yard. I still need to look up a 'fabric yard' but the price sounds awesome!!!
I am buying a bunch of it on Friday.
If anybody can tell (or confirm) me about the right kind of seat foam and vinyl, I sure would appreciate it.
So there is a machine shop in Carolina that sells Magnum OR 302 (318 hydraulic roller, shaft mounted rocker) cylinder heads at $160 a piece plus $26 shipping and a core charge. I am not sure about the core return charge yet. Their heads are listed at $170 on ebay.
I can afford a pair of these for now until I get better heads later. I already have the magnum & a crosswind rpm air gap intake.
The REALLY GOOD NEWS is that the CODE enforcement PO-PO did a pass in my neighborhood and did not citation me for having an unlicensed, unregistered, rolling chassis in the drive way (in front of the Road Runner).
A little forward momentum is really inspirational after a long broke slump.
I have all the front suspension components but I would like to buy just the bushings, as polyurethane...
I bought two of them and three boxes of hog rings in order to reupholster my seats.
I went to some lady fabric store called Jo-Anns where black, Marine-Vinyl fabric was listed at 25 bucks a yard.-TOO MUCH for this guy!
I went to another store and found it for $9 a yard. I still need to look up a 'fabric yard' but the price sounds awesome!!!
I am buying a bunch of it on Friday.
If anybody can tell (or confirm) me about the right kind of seat foam and vinyl, I sure would appreciate it.
So there is a machine shop in Carolina that sells Magnum OR 302 (318 hydraulic roller, shaft mounted rocker) cylinder heads at $160 a piece plus $26 shipping and a core charge. I am not sure about the core return charge yet. Their heads are listed at $170 on ebay.
I can afford a pair of these for now until I get better heads later. I already have the magnum & a crosswind rpm air gap intake.
The REALLY GOOD NEWS is that the CODE enforcement PO-PO did a pass in my neighborhood and did not citation me for having an unlicensed, unregistered, rolling chassis in the drive way (in front of the Road Runner).
A little forward momentum is really inspirational after a long broke slump.
I have all the front suspension components but I would like to buy just the bushings, as polyurethane...
Jack Meoff
Mopar Maniac
You're crazy man.
And I mean that in a good way.
And I mean that in a good way.
Jack Meoff
Mopar Maniac
Not exactly hi res but here you go brother...
greymouser7
Well-Known Member
So the previous post that the Captain posted is my Aspen, D300, and my daily driver civic at my house (wayyy back in the day).
I bought polyurethane K member isolator bushings, control arm bushings, from http://www.springsnthings.com/
I bought 5 leaf springs from http://www.generalspringkc.com/Leaf_Springs_Dodge_Mopar_s/1927.htm
because the leaf springs that i used made the axle alignment crooked.
I bought polyurethane K member isolator bushings, control arm bushings, from http://www.springsnthings.com/
I bought 5 leaf springs from http://www.generalspringkc.com/Leaf_Springs_Dodge_Mopar_s/1927.htm
because the leaf springs that i used made the axle alignment crooked.
Last edited:
greymouser7
Well-Known Member
Addco sway bars ordered (I wanna say 893 front & 437? rear),
polyurethane leaf spring pads ordered,
a 3.21 (it came with a 2.76 {and I have 2.94 gears installed now}) gearset arrived-picked from a stock car ($50),
heads hopefully from 76volareman,
my 360 block has had a bunch of it's dimensions machined already and I took it down to Waldo, Florida to get Dan Dvorak or DvorakMachine.com (68 year old machinist, ex-Hemi racer, aka The Lawman {he studied law-can't remember his degree})
to align-hone the final bore of the 0.040" overbore job of the cylinders with TORQUE PLATES; clean the block again, check the internal dimensions again,
drill the pilot bushing hole for my crankshaft,
machine the balancer to fit my crankshaft (it was tight),
& a few other things ordered that I cannot remember
Work has ramped up to nonstop as we race to prep four SLBM (ship launched ICBM) missile tubes for inactivity InAccordanceWith Obama's alteration to the START treaty that Reagan & Gorbachev initiated at the end of the Cold War/Arms Race - WMD reduction. -basically, I have been real busy with work.
this motor is a stock stroke build with forged internals $750 crankshaft 4340 chrome-moly-bought 3-4 years ago, $260 H-beam 4340 connecting rods (chinese & checked/machined), and Keith-Black forged pistons (I'll have to look them for part number later) <$500
the rods have the +$170 ARP 2000 rod bolts -the internals should out last me. I want to put together a stout motor, no shit, with a mild cam for now, to be upgraded to a LUnati 60403 later, but for now just absolute slant 6 reliability until i get a new job after retiring.
since Richard helped me install air conditioning into this car, it's a keeper, and Dad's ole A/C-less daily driver civic is beginning to look endangered. Pics to come once the wife fixes my smart phone ( which has been broke since november 21st as a back-burner priority to Mopar).
polyurethane leaf spring pads ordered,
a 3.21 (it came with a 2.76 {and I have 2.94 gears installed now}) gearset arrived-picked from a stock car ($50),
heads hopefully from 76volareman,
my 360 block has had a bunch of it's dimensions machined already and I took it down to Waldo, Florida to get Dan Dvorak or DvorakMachine.com (68 year old machinist, ex-Hemi racer, aka The Lawman {he studied law-can't remember his degree})
to align-hone the final bore of the 0.040" overbore job of the cylinders with TORQUE PLATES; clean the block again, check the internal dimensions again,
drill the pilot bushing hole for my crankshaft,
machine the balancer to fit my crankshaft (it was tight),
& a few other things ordered that I cannot remember
Work has ramped up to nonstop as we race to prep four SLBM (ship launched ICBM) missile tubes for inactivity InAccordanceWith Obama's alteration to the START treaty that Reagan & Gorbachev initiated at the end of the Cold War/Arms Race - WMD reduction. -basically, I have been real busy with work.
this motor is a stock stroke build with forged internals $750 crankshaft 4340 chrome-moly-bought 3-4 years ago, $260 H-beam 4340 connecting rods (chinese & checked/machined), and Keith-Black forged pistons (I'll have to look them for part number later) <$500
the rods have the +$170 ARP 2000 rod bolts -the internals should out last me. I want to put together a stout motor, no shit, with a mild cam for now, to be upgraded to a LUnati 60403 later, but for now just absolute slant 6 reliability until i get a new job after retiring.
since Richard helped me install air conditioning into this car, it's a keeper, and Dad's ole A/C-less daily driver civic is beginning to look endangered. Pics to come once the wife fixes my smart phone ( which has been broke since november 21st as a back-burner priority to Mopar).
Jack Meoff
Mopar Maniac
Don't forget the pics. :icon_thumright:
greymouser7
Well-Known Member
I got the 5 leaf springs today from general spring, they were sticky?, the paint seemed lacking, the bolt & nut thru them made me wonder what grade they were and the oval esk bushings in the front looked a bit crappy.-these are getting painted, bushed & checked out.
The wife got a smart phone working. I need a step by step tutorial for posting pics-hoping I can just text them to the Captain...
Some front end suspension parts came in, & poly urethane leaf spring pads.
i bought some of those cal custom finned valve covers on FABO, & picked up two different dual quad intakes for mopar small block.
I would rather use a tunnel ram, am going to use a six-pack-hood scoop, will see what fits. The machine shop seems to have lost my pair of holley 390 cfm four barrel carbs, i have a pair of old carters that i can use for now though
the machine shop was supposed to check flow and set up linkage for the two carbs, nope
everyone with experience wants me to run progressive linkage (one carb opens first, then the second)
i don't want any part of that, only SOME intakes allow one carb to feed 8 cylinders, and the aft/rear cylinders would be LEAN compared to the ones right under the carb, especially under part-transitioned to-hard acceleration. with twin 390's, we are right at the holley 750 carbs and thermoquad's 800cfm, so there is no reason not to run them together. the books say my version of set up mellows out the more radical cam profiles just a little bit (better airflow)
I am looking forward to seeing the cylinder heads in the mail- i think that i might change the valve springs on them
i still need a cam, clutch, tires, radiator-&hoses, a/c condenser & compressor, seat cushions, weather stripping, paint (i have much of the support material)..? am too tired to think
The light at the end of the tunnel is shining down on a larger and larger smile.
All of those years of ignoring friends/family directing me to just 'buy a new import/ford/chevy car-& sell my all of my parts' is going to pay off in spades. Especially since the Aspen has A/C.
pics are coming pics are coming pics are coming - i swear!
The wife got a smart phone working. I need a step by step tutorial for posting pics-hoping I can just text them to the Captain...
Some front end suspension parts came in, & poly urethane leaf spring pads.
i bought some of those cal custom finned valve covers on FABO, & picked up two different dual quad intakes for mopar small block.
I would rather use a tunnel ram, am going to use a six-pack-hood scoop, will see what fits. The machine shop seems to have lost my pair of holley 390 cfm four barrel carbs, i have a pair of old carters that i can use for now though
the machine shop was supposed to check flow and set up linkage for the two carbs, nope
everyone with experience wants me to run progressive linkage (one carb opens first, then the second)
i don't want any part of that, only SOME intakes allow one carb to feed 8 cylinders, and the aft/rear cylinders would be LEAN compared to the ones right under the carb, especially under part-transitioned to-hard acceleration. with twin 390's, we are right at the holley 750 carbs and thermoquad's 800cfm, so there is no reason not to run them together. the books say my version of set up mellows out the more radical cam profiles just a little bit (better airflow)
I am looking forward to seeing the cylinder heads in the mail- i think that i might change the valve springs on them
i still need a cam, clutch, tires, radiator-&hoses, a/c condenser & compressor, seat cushions, weather stripping, paint (i have much of the support material)..? am too tired to think
The light at the end of the tunnel is shining down on a larger and larger smile.
All of those years of ignoring friends/family directing me to just 'buy a new import/ford/chevy car-& sell my all of my parts' is going to pay off in spades. Especially since the Aspen has A/C.
pics are coming pics are coming pics are coming - i swear!
Last edited:
greymouser7
Well-Known Member
So I ordered front suspension parts when I ordered the leaf springs, addco's 893 front sway bar & the 437 upgrade to the 270 rear sway bar.
the 437 rear arrived today a week later than everything else & I called 'Neverenoughauto', they are becoming problematic-they listen to the problem being explained over the phone,
even twice since I tell them what they need to know & they ask for it again because they are dead zombies that don't listen-SLOW,
RETARDED, STUPID, MORONS on the effing phone.
I will drive up to to Michigan & straighten some shit out, thru their mail box & bombard their email boxes & phone lines. I am running out of patience for people that do not give a shit about the company that they work for. Was hung up on twice.
I did get a terribly good deal, & this is why. Both Sway bars were $411.XX including shipping. the sway bar came with zinc plated bolts and plates and bushings that (someone please tell me) I cannot tell if they are polyurethane or not. the bolts look like grade 8 but the nuts that came with them are grade crap.?? weird bean counting, corner cutting, it's not much, but I am getting antsy, & the small crap adds up...
so far this business is in the B- to C+ grade of performance. They have ONE job. Get the stuff I ordered from their website to the customer. What I am afraid of is that the 893 is unavailable & they took my money anyways- I did not see the addco 893 listed on summit's site, ebay, & I don't trust Jegs when it comes to Mopar stuff because they don't cater to us, nor list everything they have for Mopar.
the 437 rear arrived today a week later than everything else & I called 'Neverenoughauto', they are becoming problematic-they listen to the problem being explained over the phone,
even twice since I tell them what they need to know & they ask for it again because they are dead zombies that don't listen-SLOW,
RETARDED, STUPID, MORONS on the effing phone.
I will drive up to to Michigan & straighten some shit out, thru their mail box & bombard their email boxes & phone lines. I am running out of patience for people that do not give a shit about the company that they work for. Was hung up on twice.
I did get a terribly good deal, & this is why. Both Sway bars were $411.XX including shipping. the sway bar came with zinc plated bolts and plates and bushings that (someone please tell me) I cannot tell if they are polyurethane or not. the bolts look like grade 8 but the nuts that came with them are grade crap.?? weird bean counting, corner cutting, it's not much, but I am getting antsy, & the small crap adds up...
so far this business is in the B- to C+ grade of performance. They have ONE job. Get the stuff I ordered from their website to the customer. What I am afraid of is that the 893 is unavailable & they took my money anyways- I did not see the addco 893 listed on summit's site, ebay, & I don't trust Jegs when it comes to Mopar stuff because they don't cater to us, nor list everything they have for Mopar.
Last edited:
greymouser7
Well-Known Member
got a fedex tracking number from 76volareman, so I got heads coming my way.
i am thinking about welding up the upper & lower control arms, k member (after what someone on this site said recently about the early f bodies poor suspension problems??) with a little bit more metal & covering them in rustoleum & epoxy primer
next paycheck is the suspension tools, i bought the kevko 360 oil pan & pickup. $215 & $50 respectively. ? 301 & 302??
I am gonna have captain caravelle hold my hand & help me up load photos (without photobucker or facebook if I can help it!)
Still need tires, driveshaft, cushions for seats -(am gonna try & buy gray07's covers as a template, maybe mom's 300 year old Pff sewing machine can sew thru auto/marine vinyl cover material), engine mounts
i need to paint the leaf springs before installation, along with swapping out the bushings to polyurethane.
I saw that some people use truck or c body 11/16 tie rods instead of 9/16 - a consideration for the future.
Captain, Rich, if you want that slant 6 reluctor i need your mailing address. I have real nice volare tailight frames that usually come with the tail-panel {these are on sale cheap on ebay-& then all the way up to $300)}-I only want 15 bucks+shipping for both tailight frames from anybody that needs two of them.
i am thinking about welding up the upper & lower control arms, k member (after what someone on this site said recently about the early f bodies poor suspension problems??) with a little bit more metal & covering them in rustoleum & epoxy primer
next paycheck is the suspension tools, i bought the kevko 360 oil pan & pickup. $215 & $50 respectively. ? 301 & 302??
I am gonna have captain caravelle hold my hand & help me up load photos (without photobucker or facebook if I can help it!)
Still need tires, driveshaft, cushions for seats -(am gonna try & buy gray07's covers as a template, maybe mom's 300 year old Pff sewing machine can sew thru auto/marine vinyl cover material), engine mounts
i need to paint the leaf springs before installation, along with swapping out the bushings to polyurethane.
I saw that some people use truck or c body 11/16 tie rods instead of 9/16 - a consideration for the future.
Captain, Rich, if you want that slant 6 reluctor i need your mailing address. I have real nice volare tailight frames that usually come with the tail-panel {these are on sale cheap on ebay-& then all the way up to $300)}-I only want 15 bucks+shipping for both tailight frames from anybody that needs two of them.
Last edited:
greymouser7
Well-Known Member
Oh yeah, i got the ACC four speed carpet, black for $147 thru eBay. It is a nice one piece, comes with a large grommet
