Off season Aspen projects have begun

Aspen500

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Looks as if the off season projects are going to start early this year :( It was snowing today so.............
For quite a while, my brakes would pull to the right but not real bad. I kept meaning to look into it but never remembered until I drove the car the next time (as I said, it wasn't severe and I sort of just got used to it).
A couple weeks ago, on the way to work, I had to get on the brakes hard when I saw one of those tan 4 legged animals with antlers on the shoulder and where there's one, there's always at least one more. The car didn't stop worth a crap, even with both feet on the pedal (manual brakes). Finally decided to get some better pads, instead of the std replacement ones I had. Got EBC Yellow Stuff pads and put them in. Seems to stop better in theory BUT, now it pulls to the right so bad it's dangerous. Almost pulls the wheel out of your hands. Seems the pads with better friction have accented an existing problem.

Restricted brake hose on the left, caliper problem, suspension? Time to dig in and diagnose this.

On a side note: This car season sucked. Took until almost June before the salt was gone and the roads had been cleaned and then rain, rain, rain, threatening rain, good chance of rain............Doubt I got 500 miles on the car. Grumble, frown, complain.
 

barbee6043

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Hey man, sell out and come on down to SE Tx, it was 47 this morning and by noon I was fighting mosquitoes already!! It was high of 95 yesterday.
 

Aspen500

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I've lived here since I was 12 (43 years ago) and really can't imagine living anywhere else so, I must not hate the weather that much.:cool: When it changes so quick, THAT's when I get bummed. Was 62 when I got up Friday morning, by 5pm it was 41 and this morning,,,,,,,,,27. No time to acclimate.

Aside from the brake problem, I obviously have an alignment problem. Guessing it's toed out excessively. Should be a clue since it hasn't been touched since doing the alignment and set the toe at 0 degrees and 15 minutes toe in. The tires are worn on the inner edges and are also chopped. That would indicate a toe out problem vs a camber problem. Camber would wear the inside edge but would wear evenly, not choppy. Something is going on and the brake pull may or may not be the brakes themselves. Going to take some digging, careful inspection and head scratching.

The more I think about it, the car does have a slight pull to the right when driving. Not a hard pull but the kind that would put you on the shoulder in a few hundred yards if you let go of the wheel. Another one of those things you get so used to, you don't notice it anymore.

Tires only have about 3,000 miles on them:
DSC00342.JPG
 

Oldiron440

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You need to move the front to the rear for a rambunctious weekend or two and make them round again. Fresh concrete will do it just fine.
 

BudW

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As far as tire wear, I'll point you to this: https://www.forfmjbodiesonly.com/classicmopar/threads/alignment-problems.8446/
I have the measurements for the shims, I just need to post ‘em.

This is not the cause of the pulling when braking concern – but I assume you already know that.


I just purchased a 7-foot-long piece of steel, 1¼” wide and ¼” thick to make shims for both of my cars (both are at max alignment adjustment and have inboard tire wear). They are not as hard to install as you think especially if you are replacing front shocks at the same time.

You need to move the front to the rear for a rambunctious weekend or two and make them round again. Fresh concrete will do it just fine.
A good tip. Don't forget pictures (or a video).
BudW
 

Aspen500

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I won't know about the alignment thing probably until next year. Still thinking it's toed out too much. Would explain the twitchy feeling on curves, like it will follow one tire, then the other, so you have to keep correcting.
I know the alignment wouldn't cause a brake pull but a problem with the suspension could. Something like a bad bushing or ? Can't imagine I'll find anything though, literally every single piece in the suspension and steering was new less than 3,000 miles ago. OK, the hard parts like control arms weren't new (they were new to the car from Arizona though), but you know what I mean.

I'm holding off doing anything right now. I'm going to make the summer/winter switch over this weekend (Mustang parked, Dakota unparked). Would have done it the past weekend but the Mustang goes in for an airbag recall on Wednesday. If I tear the Aspen apart, I won't be able to get the Dakota out of the garage. Poor design on my part 22 years ago, having the garage built with only one garage door (9 ft wide).:confused:

Didn't check your link yet, but I will later, promise!
 

Aspen500

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Bud, I think you called it right on the money. Hardly accurate but, I attached two bolts to a level, spaced so each one goes against the outside of the rim and,,,,,,on the left there's almost a 1/4" gap with the level held plumb, right side is about half that much. Would explain the drift to the right while driving with more neg. camber on the left.
Did the tape measure thing on the tires and it's toed out at LEAST 1/2". Makes sense, when camber changes the toe does as well, and more than you'd think. Even just eyeballing it, I can see it's toed out.
When I lined it up after it was back on the road (2013), I had camber perfect and dialed in as much caster as I could (approx 3.50 degrees) and still have the correct camber. I guess the upper arm mounts on the k-frame probably have "sagged" a little (?). Too many hard landings with the front tires after coming off the line:D
Looks like shims will be on the winter to do list. Don't know how I missed your alignment thread before. That's what happens when I miss staff meetings, I miss valuable information.

Then there's that brake problem.

Proves an old adage that a car is never truly done!
 
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Oldiron440

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Did you verify the ride height had not changed after the car had been driven for some time. If the ride height settles there goes your alignment.
 

Aspen500

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First thing I did and, ride height hasn't changed. Not my first rodeo you know(auto tech for 35 years):D Even if it had gotten a little lower, it wouldn't account for as much negative camber and toe out that it has.
 

Aspen500

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An idea popped into my head, as I was driving home from work today, about the bad brake pull to the right after putting in the EBC yellow stuff's that have better friction. I wonder,,,,,,,,,,,maybe there's air trapped in the left caliper. It's had the pull, but not very bad, for a long time. Possibly since day one but I really don't remember. Before I do anything else, and before I can't drive the car anymore this year (weather) I'm going to try bleeding the left side and see if any air comes out. Never really thought of it before but, the pedal does seem a bit soft. Maybe I'll get lucky and it'll be that simple.:eek:
 

BudW

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It could be a frozen (or rusted) brake caliper piston (on the other side of car, this case L/F), a bad hose, a crimped off metal brake line, caliper not sliding on the caliper bracket (rust), or brake pad has dug a hole into the brake caliper bracket (keeping caliper from sliding smoothly).
I doubt it is a brake caliper bracket (rust) sense you avoid reasons for it to rust.

My opinion is a stuck L/F caliper is the most likely cause.
Wait, that sounds too much like an ASE test question...
BudW
 

Oldiron440

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Stuck caliper was my first thought. Have you changed the brake fluid yet? I've read where it should be done every two to three years on vehicles that sit.o_O
 

Aspen500

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LOL! "Technician A says......." "Technician B says.........." Who is right? Personally, I think they're both f******* in the head.:p

The brake pull, although slight until better pads, has been there since day one. Every single part other than the rear brake backing plates and the brake pedal itself were brand new or reman parts/pieces. Pistons are phenolic and the fluid looks like the day I put it in and my refractometer shows it's the same as new in the bottle (yes, I do check all my vehicles). Remember, climate controlled garage and never driven in the rain.
I'm planning on getting out the the garage this evening and check my air theory. If there isn't any, then it's on to step 2. Of course, some moron forgot to bring the brake pressure gauge set home from work:rolleyes:
 

BudW

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you changed the brake fluid yet? I've read where it should be done every two to three years on vehicles that sit.o_O
It sounds like he answered the question and is on top of that issue.

I did make a post talking about changing brake fluid at Changing Brake Fluid . It might not apply here but (hopefully it is) worth reading for other car nuts like us.\
BudW
 

Aspen500

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I should listen to those ASE test questions and follow my own (and your) advice, lol. Got a couple tiny air bubbles but the fluid, good God. Hey, it was only a theory about air in the system. Fluid in the reservoir looks fine, only a slight amber tinge. Fluid that came out of the left caliper looked more like old power steering fluid or something. Brown, rust colored, blech. I then checked the right side and while not clear, is only slightly amber colored just a hair darker than what's in the reservoir.

So, as many have mentioned, caliper could be sticking (even though the piston retracted fine and the brake doesn't drag more than normal) for some reason or it's the hose. The plan: Pull the left caliper and take it apart for inspection. Either replace or repair it, change the hose right away and be done with it, THEN change all the fluid front and rear. If it hasn't salted out yet by that time, take it down the road and see what happens.

At least this off season i have some "real" work to do on the car. You know, things that make it undriveable and those get the ol' ambition up a little higher than, for example, finishing the luggage compartment. That's on the list also. Not much to do yet, I just need to DO IT!:eek:
 

Oldiron440

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Now days you can upgrade your brakes with pretty parts that stop your car.
 
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